Stephen

Yeah agreed, not that high though lol, the camber looks odd too. Then Daves pic, looks better.

Probably wants driving back and forward let the suspension settle.

It's not hard it's just long winded.

Autos have milder cams and a lower AR turbo, the exhaust housing is smaller, just. The slush box has a higher parasitic drain on the drive line as well. Mean while in the real world it makes a very minimal if any noticeable difference. If anything a converted auto will be more responsive.

Bear in mind I'm a busy man so I can't promise it will be easy to pin down a date. I'm busy till October at present lol.

Did you save much by buying those GSP turbos including the rebalance, it's not a cheap, cheap thing to do is it. Also what did you do with the tubular manifolds?

Did you say you've fitted a new loom? I've disturbed the ECU plug?

That's it proper job, well done. Don't loose your nerve, it's going to get pretty scarey before your done here.

I'm going to live to regret this most likely but if you find a suitable parts collection and maybe if Alex is up for it to il leave the southwest for the day and get the damn thing converted. Between three of us we could have it done in one lengthy day esp if you did some donkey work before hand.

I too use 10-40w semi, use Mobil or another brand of that type, what ever is on offer. The filters I buy OEM, they're on the shelf pretty cheap in the grand scheme and I buy a few at a time. The horror stories put me off the cheapies, as I say there not expensive. I've basically got all the consumables sat there at any given time. Change it each spring. Costs a bit more than £15 probably about £30 odd quod each change as you get like one and a half changes out the bottle. Unless it's one of those stupid 4L cans that's around more these days

I'm booked out this weekend. In fact I've not got a clear weekend till October now. :thumbdown:

Seems to be the way of things. I can't really remember the last time I heard anyone say that changing an autobox was successful, only ever temporarily. This is one of the reasons I personally would just say, it's time to go manual.

Totally agree, throwing cash just guessing is a very expensive and disheartening way to progress forward.

Keep at it bud, I'm down to the 21s for 5k now but haven't done a 10k yet. Kinda what to break 20 first, dunno why lol.

Get the right mods sorted (lots of them) and over 260mph is possible and done in a Z32. Remember this old gem;

That sounds like a proper solution.

Check your ECU codes, your describing Classic MAF fault symptoms.

Yup, quite a noticeable increase in volume. - - - Updated - - - Have you tried rotating the prop 180' a refitting?

You can't. If it's that uneven then you have another primary issue. This could be a simple vac leak, bad MAF or simply dirty/poor connections/contacts.

Sounds like you've got a few things to check here. Firstly the car needs to be at operating tempreture, secondly the TPS needs to be set (how to's are available). Once you filled those two you can then check the timing demand via conzult etc, this should say 15btdc, then you check the mechanical timing with the light and adjust via the CAS. You can then detach the idle valve plug on the engine and the idle will drop. Set mechanically to 650. Replugging will yield 750rpm.

"Send me your bank details and I'll send a deposit" Boom funds stolen.

http://www.roadandtrack.com/new-cars/car-comparison-tests/reviews/a20274/speed-kings-bugatti-veyron-164-1/

Ali mate the stock car will do 170+mph at 280hp. It will take you a long time to get there but it will go there. Hopefully Nick will chime in but one or two of the guys have trapped 150+mph on top speed runs at TOTB etc, hopefully they can be more detailed. Even the mighty Veyron wouldn't be hitting it 250+mph top speed on a half mile strip they need that banked oval to set that speed.

Interesting.

Check chassis number, job done. Why the need to know and the rush? It makes very little difference most insures don't even care these days.