Fitting AMS Manifolds

[Richie K]

Hi guys, myself and the mechanic were just debating on the quickest + easiest way to replace manifolds, turbo's and downpipes. He thinks removing / dropping the front subframe will be the easiest way?? Bear in mind that he's doing me a favour and needs his lifts / workshop space for other jobs, so it's basically whichever way has the shortest lift / space time:thumbup1:

What do the mechanically Z experienced people on here reckon??

[Richie K]

Anyone??

[Fraz12]

pull the engine out, nothing easy about getting drivers side turbo off, if you have some deletes done already in the bay makes pulling it out quicker than struggling to get turbs off ect

[Richie K]

Hi Fraz, he wants to drop it down rather than pull it up?? either way the gearbox will be disconnected and the engine moved either up or down. I just need to know which is quicker and easier:thumbup1:

[TonyB]

Engine out !

 

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[nickz32]

Engine out is DEFFO the quicker and easier option.

[(adl) phoenix]

engine out and up, may have to drop the sub frame to make it easier anyway, from personal experience its enough of a fiddle with it on a stand, make sure you use the shorter studs provided with the manifold, the longer omen ones will give you fitting issues particularly on the rear and lower studs.

 

with the ams elbows you really will struggle to clear the column no mater what you do,

 

tbh in a decent garage pulling the motor should be fairly straight forward, mine was out in 2 days on my (wonky and angled) driveway, with your other work, steering rack etc, engine being out of the way will make life easier on both fronts...

[Richie K]

You mean these studs Ash

 

 

For the turbos to bolt to??

[(adl) phoenix]

you'll need them too depending on turbo, but I mean the 12 manifold to head studs, if you look particularly at the nr manifold top rear youll see there only just a nut size gap, the oem stud is too long, the supplied ones are slightly shorter, there are a couple more that don't fit well with oem studs, but once I realised I changed the lot.

[Richie K]

I don't have any studs with them, do I have to order them from an AMS retailer or would they be available locally?? Where's the best place to get them from??

Thanks

[(adl) phoenix]

really? mine came with them, where did you get them from?

 

had a bag of manifold to head nuts,washers and studs, turbo to manifold studs nuts and washers, heat shield bolts and gaskets...

 

centre of the picture between elbows and manifold, long joined bag of bits, same packet as manifold to turbo gasket....

 

Edited September 25, 2016 by (adl) phoenix

[Stephen]

Not to be that dick but make sure you check them throughly before fitting, or even before getting carried away removing the block. There are known quality control problems and I'd hate to see you pull the block to find they don't fit. I'm sure they will be fine but it's best to check now rather than later, right?

[(adl) phoenix]

I did use all mine otherwise id send you one to match up,

 

Stephen does have a point my were alright although did have to trim the pas bracket slightly to get the drivers side sitting right.

[johnyboy]

With all the messing around will be better to take engine out much better job as your not trying to undo bolts at an angle and manifold bolts can be a **** and at least if any break you'll have better access

[Chandler93]

I'm currently in the process of fitting the same manifolds to my own Z after the old gaskets had blown.

I also have the AMS 3" divorced downpipes & test pipes.

 

Having previously gone through the awful process of pulling the turbos with the engine in place, I can tell you first hand that the easiest and quickest way to do it would be pulling the engine.

it look me and a friend around 4/5 hours to pull my engine out just in my garage.

 

You will have to smash the drivers side downpipe with a hammer though so it will clear the steering column!

[Richie K]

I got my manifolds second hand guys,

[Richie K]

Anywhere locally that would sell shorter manifold studs??

[Alic]

Would it be easier to grind them shorter? with the nut on of course so you don't spoil the end thread.

[Richie K]

Debating that myself, CZP sell Mike Smith manifold short studs at $10 each:shock: so $120 plus shipping :shock:

[Alic]

Debating that myself, CZP sell Mike Smith manifold short studs at $10 each:shock: so $120 plus shipping :shock:

 

My logic is that if it goes sour, then you can still buy new studs afterwards. Worth a try IMO but make sure you have the nut on before you grind it otherwise you will never get it back on the thread.