Stephen

ok just clarifying, might be worth popping out part of the under dash to feel the matrix see if its warm but no airs blowing or weather its not not even warming up.

Which fan phil? Are the blowers blowing at all?

Amature.

Well I need something to do with the passenger seat lol.

When my car was auto it was plesantly lazy when I wanted, now its manual it begs to be antisocial constantly.

didn't zclub set it up last year? then we paid up and the tickets came in the post?

il be going.

I love snow, currently though. Its sunny with clear blue skys.

Might be worth cleaning this up, if the op hasnt run to the hills just yet. Lol

its a seriously easy job it shouldn't take you even an hour. remove the rad and the fan makes life easier, then unbolt the two ali hard pipes, some hex head sockets make life easier. the lower one holds the thermostat. change the little steel hats behind the top front pipe, and the two short pipes connecting it all.

only problem is and this is the hilarious thing about insurance, even though a supercharged z would probably be less powerfull than a twinturbo one it would cost more to insure because its a modification. and yeah tts are cheaoer for young guns because statistically your more likely to crash one.... a fiesta is more expensive for me to insure for Christ sake. - - - Updated - - - more likely to crash an na I mean

real shame, my breeding pair of common clowns died this week aswel, dunno why. dubt il replace them though as the upgrade is looming lol.

theres me loosing my mind again then.

swbs are very common in the states as they didn't make lwb twinturbos for their home market. in the uk lwb tt was the only one released so all swb are import, hence the rarity. and at the end of the day its personal preference, if you want a fast road car either is fine if you want a track car a slicktop or at least a swb are pretty much the best starting block. have you checked the insurance and running costs though? I don't know what sorta spare cash youve got but at 20 these are pretty expensive cars to run.

that's not many fish in 450 litres of water really so overstocking out the question, I spoke to a friend of mine for you today who is currently working with bournemouths oceanarium, and was previously to that a big of a big wig within the company maindenheadaquatics. anyways what he was saying is that because you're putting in effectively dirty water its a chain reaction. Ideally id like to do a 50% change on that tank, with good quality water and then reduce down to 25% for the next few weeks, obviously that isn't going to very easy when doing 200+ litres of water, not to mention expensive. but I think at that level even a 50% with 40ppm no3 in it will help. then move onto ro for the 25%s. get those nitrate sponges recharged and hammer it. move the outlet of your filter close to the surface to it breaks the surface as much as possible, causing turbulence and bubbles, this will increase your gas exchange. personally id reduce the amount of gravel in your tank that deep bed at the back is a damn sediment trap. furthermore id reduce your feeding down to one every other day and push you onto a good quality flake such as newera. aquariun flake food is full of crap and not very high in nutritional value. did I read that your po4 is 0.25? with a no3 of 160? that is imbalanced and I would be surprised if you didn't have cyanobacteria. link here.... http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/member-submitted-articles/cyanobacteria-23633/

wasn't it in portsmount last year or something? its in York now though :( that's the opposite end of the country.

ahh ok that makes sense, thankyou for clarifying. that make sit easier to understand whats going on, it would be cool if noz or someone did a quick thread to show how these graphs work and what is optimal.

just buy some diesel europeon estate, audi, vw preferably 4wd but front is fine with the correct tyres. its the most popular choice for that sorta thing for a reason.

http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?q=clarke+top+box&num=10&hl=en&tbo=d&biw=1366&bih=673&tbm=isch&tbnid=mkWYNQq1IqErZM:&imgrefurl=http://www.monstermarketplace.com/hand-tools-and-power-tools/clarke-tool-box-27-wide-9-drawer-top-3-drawer-middle-7-drawer-bottom&docid=EtzNy2VPiz8wZM&imgurl=http://cf.mp-cdn.net/56/62/666752c8eb6dcd68de4c6640831d.jpg&w=800&h=800&ei=1hPzUPSWLeTD0QXuhIGQDg&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=715&vpy=100&dur=792&hovh=225&hovw=225&tx=133&ty=126&sig=112053901119415752764&page=1&tbnh=138&tbnw=134&start=0&ndsp=30&ved=1t:429,r:27,s:0,i:169 that's the top box ive got, they did at the time do one which was wider and had some deeper drawers, which in hindsight would have been better. mallets and valve clamps etc don't fit in the drawers.

yeah its good quality, I had the non nearing drawers before and when your putting heavy stuff in them they fail quick, so these ones with the roller drawers are much better. my mates got some bloody expensive snap'on one its expensive lol.

clear water isn't always clean water, regular testing allows proper management that allows you to see the future before things go downhill, but good on you for your successes, and you are correct the larger the body of water the more stable it is, conversely the larger it is the more of a pita it is when it does go wrong. I work with thousands of gallons of water every day at work , and big can be a nightmare.

lol see you have been influenced by takeshi amano without even knowing it check his stuff out bud.

is that not dangeroulys lean in the midrange? and the fueling curve doesn't match the raise in boost? I use question marks because im learning this stuff so they are much questions as observations.

somehow I managed to convince myself I needed the black and gold top box of this range lol.