Stephen

Sure you’ve got the right one? The reverse switch is ok the neutral switch is a nightmare.

Don’t spose you’ve got the rear seat belts?

That’s the paradox with lots of these things, if your selling it’s worth nothing and if your buying you can’t find anything. Last week I sold a fish tank that cost me £1000 for 1p. I’d had it for sale for weeks. Couldn’t even get £50!

I haven’t lifted a finger mate. Howard’s done the lot. So blame him! :lol: In all seriousness though it’s a real microclimate here, so I wouldn’t bank on the forecast. What rain they’ve forecast has been very localised. I had a call last night saying it’s started, (we’re waiting for it) the clouds rolled in the sky went black, thunder and I’m think here we go then the heath set fire and not a drop of rain fell :no:

I do about 50k miles a year for Work (not in a Z32 thank god!) and I’ve had it and rarely used it then. Each to their own.

Thank you for the additional info Andrew. It was in the recess of my mind as I was concerned what impact would be had as my sensor is open circuit. After looking, I’ve deleted my PRVR so the impact, not much. Still intend to fix it though.

The stock fuel rail has a thermometer that tells the ECU. I believe fuel pressure is effected in this scenario.

Your right it’s rubbish. Oh I forget it can be of use in average speed camera zones. If you want to sit there doing nothing take the train! :lol:

Because it’s usless clutter in a sports car in a country where you cannot cruise for more than 10 yards. The only time I’ve ever been able to use cruise control is aboard or at 4am. It’s about as pointless as the BOVs you hate so much.

I don’t I’m afraid mate. Maybe they don’t do them anymore. Have a look on eBay mate.

Think you can get discs and pads made by brembo for reasonable cost from Euro Car Parts.

Well stop being a bell end and fix it then. :lol:

The lamp is dim because there’s insufficient power, wether that’s due to high resistance or low current I couldn’t say.

You could pop off the ECU plug and continuity test the wire. I had a similar issue which turned out the ECU plug wasn’t sat right.

I suspect you have an issue with the ground return from the ECU.

You need a noid like Pete suggested. If the injection ohms ok then I doubt they are the issue.

So you put the positive in the connector and negative to the battery neg or similar? You know the rail is constantly live, then ground is given by the ECU. Yeah?

How did you measure the voltage supply at the plug Alic?

Reinstated the cat apparently;

To clarify. I have with the ignition on; 12v at the ignition fuse. 0v at the meter, aircon And FR wiper fuses. Any ideas guys this is getting very annoying.

The plot thickens. I got out my little circuit tester today and had a poke around. Applying 12v to the 20a fuse for the wipers activated the pod! I then removed the pod and with it still attached to the loom applied 12v to the pins. I found the wiper activation cables but no display. The top block did nothing obvious other than apply power to the orange wire illuminated the display orange which promptly failed. I can only assume that the display isn’t 12v and has now failed. Repeating the 12v to the 20a no longer activated the display. So it wasn’t the pod it’s a supply issue and now the pod because I killed the display :lol:

Yeah, changed both blue ones. When they were faulty there was no 12v feed at the fuses.

I’m thinking I need a new fuse box

Still got issues with this. It worked fine for a week or two and now it’s dead again. The whole left pod doesn’t work and near does the mirror switch. There is power at the fuses. I’ve arranged for another CC pod and module to try but I think the issue is elsewhere.

IMHO v6 ones don’t look right. You need at least an 8, preferably a 10 or 12.