Stephen

The owner has a build thread somewhere. He calls his gt500 build or something. Having read the owners thread they are most definitely from an MR2.

Sorry mate. Shouldn't be bad. It's only the portions of it that sit in the engine bay that are fiddly. They run across the front subframe and under the aircon compressor. Just cut them up to make removal easier. Check the routes first, you don't want to cut the steering rack ones by accident.

Much better!

Just yanking your chain Noel, tone is lost with text sadly. I thought you may say that. I was under the impression that the quoted figure were based upon the characteristics of the cold side. Ie bench testing, not including the other factors. Obviously not. Interesting stuff.

Closer to 1.5 bar really, if you wish to be anal. Anyway. I stand corrected. I was under the impression stock turbos were out of their range at 17psi. And that gt2554s peaked efficiency at 19psi. However I was aware that GTX turbos don't really shine until you are making far higher than 1bar.

who said anything about a WRX? The only logical out come to your findings then is that the radiator is efficient enough to not require that help. Ie the fan has no return value of efficiency. Your a knowledgeable guy Noel, it's illogical to suggest that cooling efficiency of the fan is not effected by the shroud. Can you think of a car on the market that does not encorperate a shroud? As a side point at 145mph I suspect that cooling would be more efficient without the shroud, due to a less restrictive pathway. What I'm stating is that at in a hot idle scenario a fan shroud will improve the radiators ability for thermal exchange. Simply because a larger, more focused percentage of the total amount of air pulled by the fan is actually drawn through the radiator. The reality may be as you suggest that the exchange is good enough than the gain from the shroud is immeasurable. I'd be surprised about that though. The bottom line is though, it's a fact that more air will pass through the heater core at hot idle with a shroud than without, as a result the efficiency of that thermal exchange would be maximumised.

I don't doubt that 100xs was an exaggeration but think about it. Without a shroud the fan moves air, well from all around, with it its forced to pull air through the rad. Where talking logic here, path of least resistance.

Get it warm and repeat with the idle valve disconnected. Sounds like it's gummed up a bit.

No problem. This is where an AFR gauge comes in handy, just for peace of mind. As Jimmer said, if it's making 15 that's a good sign really. If you were struggling to produce the 16 you recorded, ie you used to hit full boost at 4krpm now it's not till 5.5krpm, then I'd be concerned. It really would be sensible to test it out.

Some options on the bay of E.

What turbos are they vig? 21psi is a lot and I'd be surprised if that's what they were set up to unless you had some GTX turbos or something. I'd give you a hand if you weren't so far away. I'm actually in Croydon Thursday but I'm on a tight schedule.

When an engine is running it puts its intake into negative pressure, aka vacuum. This means it's sucking in, it's only in the case of forced induction that the intake becomes partially positive pressure, aka boost. Our cars like a lot of turbo cars won't make much boost if any at standstill unless it's really revved hard. Say 2psi at 5.5k rpm. That flash of 2psi wont tell you much. What I'm saying is your method won't work, you will simply suck in washing up liquid. What you could do in that respect is spray an accelerant on the joins and wait for the revs to spike. Rather a long winded process best left for NAs. Without doubt the best option available to the home/diy mechanic is to apply pressure to the entire intake system, via a compressor, small tyre inflator ones you get in some cars aren't man enough. You can usually get something useable for about £100. Pressurise the system to a preset value, I chose 5psi as per the service manual. The reason being applying pressure to the pre turbo section, vacuum area pressurises the oil galleries via the front valve cover breathers. This potentially could pop out an old seal. If you have deleted the pcv this is moot. Some, will push more pressure through say 14psi, this would be at your own risk though. You can then listen for the hisses and use soapy water to locate the offender, which will go like bubble bath. Alternatively you can add a smoke pellet as Russ suggested.

Your radiator will do its job 100% better with a fan shroud btw.

Yeah it's the same loop, what pipe they are on is immaterial. As long as it's between the turbo outlet and throttle body.

Right. Firstly it would appear he has done the reverse switch, else you would of had that flagged up. Check it anyway. Do they illuminate in R with the ignition on. Secondly, is the neutral switch in use. You will see this most easily by pulling back the carpet and inspecting pin 44 which is likely spliced. Check the timing when up to temperature, if it's done right it should be 15btdc iirc or without the neutral switch 20btdc. Once warm with the AC off etc it should idle at 750ish. If it doesn't and the timing etc are correct firstly check for boost leaks. Then check the TPS. If all that's good then unplug the idle switch connector and reduce the idle speed to the correct level and reconnect.

No. It's persistently drizzled all day and I've got work tonight. Maybe tomorrow lol.

Yeah that's not right and a drive prob won't help. You need to get that engine set up. Warm idle should 750rpm. - - - Updated - - - Have you converted this car from auto to manual by any chance?

That's the one, yeah. The further out you push those rear wheels or wider you make them in relation to the front the worse. Depends wether you care about that kinda thing or it's a park hard thing.

I'd have to drive it for that. Tbh it's not much of an issue for me, as a point and shoot weekend warrior it's great. If I had to drive it for anything but fun, it may be different. There's a dozen reasons though why my car used to be civil and comfy and is now, let's call it more focused. It doesn't even have a stereo anymore.

Yeah, that's fine. You won't upset anyone. The biggest issue you get is the occasional person that either takes it to heart or reads way to much into it. If you want serious, the internet a a bad place to find it lol.

They work at the back, I just feel it don't work up front. So you end up with a triangle shape. From what I understand the stock set up encourages under steer and doing that will further exacerbate that situation, not winner. So you've gotta balance it up some how.

like this kinda thing? http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fender-Flares-Wheel-Arch-Universal-Diameter-570-mm-x-65-mm-JDM-Style-bolt-/200990673978

Mate, tron was never a great film. It was "ok" once but never great. :lol: You crack on though. I'd say I've got to know Si quite well over the years, one thing a lot of people don't realise is his opinions which can offend are often banter, as such when it comes back his way that's fine to. I do agree that I don't like the neon pin stripes, Also I do agree though, the velour interiors aren't nice. niether of you would probably enjoy my cars rock hard ride. NM lol.

He's aware.

Now there's a question. I can't honestly give you an answer but we can expand and speculate upon your question. In thoery. Let's just just assume that turbo removal with the engine in place is a done deal. We all know it's possible, but not easy. Many sticks in the mud such as seized bolts etc. It's the access that's problematic not the turbos size. So theoretically it's a case of whatever fits without chassis modification should be changeable, should. So the question is what's the largest turbo that fits without major modification to the car itself. If the stock turbo only just clears on removal then maybe the answer is gt525/sport 500, ones that use stock housings. Now let's ask the better question. Why? Bigger isn't necessarily better and you must consider what characteristics you want and what sort of power level you want. Fitting 6/700 hp turbos when you only wanted 4-500hp is falicy. Doing the job with the engine in might seem simpler but it brings with it other issues, engine removal allows to fix little things you didn't realise we're even an issue. Put it this way, unless you've got an engine that's been out and serviced heavily recently then I think fitting them with it in place is a bad idea. Your cruising towards a headache with that route.