Stephen

Looks like you had a fun day mate.

That sounds like the starter inhibiter mate.

I think your confusing yourself mate. Yes you needed to cut that cable at the ecu, join and extend it to the switch. Your ground, is simply attached to the chassis. You will have one, it's simply a case of wether it works.

I wonder how that works. TPS interupts things maybe?

I'm confused too. Pin 44 the wire from the ecu should go to the switch. The other wire on the switch should go to ground. You would need to extend the cables obviously.

From what I understand. In that case your ECU believes your constantly in neutral, your whole timing curve is suppressed.

Nope. Yellow and blue to the switch, switch to ground. - - - Updated - - - So you've connected pin44 to Earth directly? Your right you don't "need" it but it's better to have it.

He's not wrong. Who ever thought people would pay £700 for a rear valance on a Capri or £500 for a Mk1 escort inner wing. These things are going to get more expensive and people will sell, and buy absolute tat for proper money.

There seems to be lots of conflicting information surrounding this little sucker. So I thought I'd start this thread not only to get mine sussed but for others to have a nice clear explanation. Useful when converting to manual from auto. My current understanding and please correct me if I'm wrong, this is a discussion not a how to. On manual cars and autos, but for now let's out lie manuals there are two switches on the gear box. The reverse light switch and neutral position switch. The neutral switch makes and breaks the circuit from the ecu effecting base idle timing. When the engine is up to tempreture the following timing should be observed; In gear 25BTDC In neutral 15BTDC The idea is that the idle should sit lower whilst the car is at rest, when you engage gear to move away the timing will advance 10 degrees and the idle should jump up a tick. In neutral the circuit is complete and timing decreases, in gear its complete and timing advances. This has two effects should you not connect it or it has failed in the off position. Warm idle sits at 25BTDC, which confuses people who wind it back loosing out on power through the range. With base idle set at 750rpm the car bogs a touch on pull away. I've ended with my idle at 900rpm to reduce this effect. So on the ecu is pin 44 a yellow wire with a blue stripe. This is the AT/MT neutral switch connection. Grounding this wire to the chassis will activate the neutral switch and reduce to the 15BTDC state. Obviously we only want this when we're in neutral, so this connection is connected to the neutral position switch, the output of the switch goes to ground. This makes and breaks our circuit as desired. The switch itself is about £60 when buying an OEM Nissan item for the z32. Fortunately it's the same switch used in many Nissan boxes including the Navara D22. Pattern parts are available for these common cars for less than £20. Winner. The same trick also works with the reverse light switch. When converting its sensible to change both or at least check them. They have a habit of failing.

It shows he probably a half decent bloke that he didn't instantly tell you about all those. He's also probably rather wealthy. As apposed to those people you meet and will instantly start going on about what thier house is worth, what cars they've got, thier holidays blah blah. Nice little collection though. Oh and yeah it's definitely a McLaren.

It's something that causes me joy, the Americans seem to love it. 0.25" or 0.5" etc, gets really silly when peole start putting 7.5' what on earth does that mean!? On technical diagrams as well. I can work in both but a lot of imperial drawings are just annoying to work from, partly because of the aforementioned and I'd much rather see a metric one any day of the week.

I like to see some sidewall, when the arch is kissing the rim it looks a bit silly IMO.

Plus define modified. So let's assume this to the letter, any part that is not as it left the factory is therefore a modification, technically. So in an alarmist extension would be to say therefore that an part not made by the manufacturer is a mod. Which means places like euro car parts are stuffed. Most cars on the road wouldn't be road legal. It's all *****cks. This doesn't even take into account the policability of it, cars with limited production runs, for example Jensen, it's a known fact that two cars could leave the factory with different diffs for example, which ones "correct" how can you decern what, should be fitted. Where not just talking pikey boy racers either, hurses, limos, hell even ambulances are modified examples of normal cars. The tax collected from aftermarket car parts and kit cars would take a heavy hit too. You'd need a database of what ever car ever produced has as a factory standard, that's not only horrendously expensive but doomed to fail. Some may remember a purge on noisy exhausts, multiple TVR and Scooby owners were aquitted after being handed tickets for factory exhaust systems. Not policable, horrendously expensive and damaging to the economy. For those three reasons alone make it common sense that it's a law to never see the light of day.

Cheers, think I'm going to do mine just well, because.

It's not but it looks like a place near me called Badbury Rings, an Iron Age hill fort.

You still have the stock front tow eyes under the car?

You got a link to the kit you purchased?

Yeah, high level brake light. The car is saying, your brake light bulbs out bud.

Haha ends of the earth.

That bad!? Christ.

What do you get for your hard earned?

Well done.

They keep saying 5 years to complete minimum. Which is crazy.

David says happy birthday Simon, you winner, you!

It's worth pointing out the carbon fibre effect stuff is thick as its textured, makes it pretty durable and easy to apply. The normal non textured stuff is waffer thin and pain in the ass.