znut

Wasn't this a perfectly good engine before you stripped it?:confused:

my ass a stiched mouth...you have become the fishermans wife of the zed world mate and its getting a little over the top the way you act like a 12 year old school girl most of the time. You must remember jeff ive been here a long time and was also TLO when you was a trader here dealing with issues from un-happy members that had shall we say "iffy workmanship":innocent: not once did i allow just 5% the amount of sh1t slinging you do towards other traders past or present and there where many times it was aimed at your garage..

US option Alic..

Wow all these cool pics has got me excited..leaving on Thursday for a biking trip around Germany and at some point hoping to cross into France:cool3:

Was always good enough when you had your dark unit here Jeff..HaHa:D

Turning the cams by using the "flats" on the shaft with a wrench against the valve springs is surprisingly very hard and it does feel like there is something stiff but this is normal...to determine if each stem is binding in the guides just take off the collets and drop each valve out...No dis-respect Lee but if this is your 1st deep engine build then you dont really have anything to gauge good or bad from and what appears to be wrong to you might be perfectly normal...check the individual stems before spending more money as how could of you damaged the valves if you only turned the motor by hand:confused:.

So if i reply to a publish to facebook thread my posts are spread about facebook mate?

The tube goes into a header tank or catch tank..any coolant that lifts the cap and drains into the tank is then siphoned back into the rad as it cools as a vacuum is formed by the cooling water in the Rad. This type of system is kept topped up by keeping the correct level in the catch tank and not the rad.:)

yea that move out the unit was really bad timing mate and just at a critical part of the build...take it apart mate and re-adjust your mojo and ime sure you,ll be fine Lee..iff you was,nt that far away ide be up there tapping into your coffee and helping out..looks like you have the job licked just need to re-check thats all:cool3:

ouch:crying:

does look a tad stiff given the size of the breaker bar Lee....when you started the build and put the crank in all buttoned down,could you turn the crank nice and free...then after the pistons and connecting the rods another test to see iff nothing was binding before the sump pan went on. looking at the way your pushing that bar ide be tearing it down and checking again mate :wink:

HaHaHa:whistling: you wish Simon:clown:

The same as on many bike systems Richard..they hold a slip joint together (none welded) they can expand and move about without the cracking that thin walled stainless steel can bring :)

Whats the Gains Jeff? looking at the BMW headers they look fine to me compared to run of the mill Cast Iron jobbies on most cars

Do you mean the caps Lee?...get the back plates fitted 1st and put the pullys on the cams as its these components that have the timing marks. Number 1 cylinder at TDC and fit the cams with the relevant timing marks dialed in. Its not good practice to swap around the caps from a strip down but as long as you have them facing the correct way its ok...Its also a 3/8 torque wrench you need not a 1/4" but you must be very carefull as those bolts dont take much to pull the threads up...Apart from head bolts i never use a Torque wrench on builds as i like to "feel" the fastener as its getting nailed up. btw...you have the correct cams in the correct place dont you?..just asking as its not the 1st time someone has tried that old chestnut (not me btw):clown:

The one i should of bought:crying:

I often wonder why myself as its on my top 5 hate list...the only answer ive got is it must be a primeval thing as "safety in numbers" makes them do it:mad2:

they need mounting on the wall :yes:

Thank you Gary and the rest of the Committee for the new Member status...Have you informed The Queen or is this something i need to do with the form that came with the Honorary starter pack?:D. Seriously guys this is just fantastic and many many thanks indeed. Heres to the next 13 years:thumbup1:

could always use steel chequer plate Simon:D

:biggrin: It will splinter if cut with a chainsaw my friend...wood and boards is my life and has paid my bills for almost 40 years:D

It needs a bloody good bang with a lump hammer and a large old socket in the middle of the pully over the crank end..Knock it onto the motor deeper into the taper rather than trying to pull it off as it needs "un-freezing" 1st before its going anywhere. Hitting it with wood is doing nothing believe me :winkiss: and no heavy heat unless you want to replace the front oil seal too.

Whoever you get to do the work matey don't just fit another turbo without first finding out why it seized..blocked oil feed ect:wink:

MDF is heavier..

No Lee, i never told you i had a set otherwise you would of took em with you ime sure:clown: