Ossian

Hmmmmm got me thinking now........ lol....nope fook that I'll leave the oil burner in the pug and keep the Z as it is thanks

Ahh another PSV mechanic then, served my apprenticeship on buses too, before moving onto HGV's

Mabey you guys had better start up your own forum "dieselheads.co.uk" ffs you'll be trying to transplant a 2.5di engine into your Z's next :p

astra wally - in my pants rose tattoo

I just want someone to fu*k - in my pants rose tattoo

Mouldy old dough - in my pants leutenant pigeon

Thats fookin sick!

An emissions test is to test the emissions coming out the exhaust nothing to do with the quality of the cat. no matter whether the cats been removed the test has still to be done. if your car was registered before Aug 1992 its tested to lower limits and its possible it may still pass even with the cat removed, after this date the emission limits tighten up and you will struggle without a cat. There exceptions to the above but in general those are the regulations that apply to the Z

:D just winding you up :D, good decision to replace... me Im going the other way and fixing mine up but then I knew it needed work done when id bought it, and it was bought as a project (big boys meccano :) ). all the best with the new Z

:D :D :D

48 items ffs, sounds like a death trap but looks like a nice motor, hope theres nothing too serious and you get it sorted ok

Tell me more :) ie garage and testers name and i'll have a word think you'l find you need an emission check next year!!!!

hhmmmmmm do you sell second hand cars for a living then? :smw: cause I recalled this now its away its ;)

thought about welding mine when I found they were cracked, problem is they are likely to be high carbon steel and the heat may affect the strength of the weld and surrounding metal so didnt take the chance, probably be able to pick up a set of 2nd hand ones cheap enough, I did thanks to Pete and Andy, and speak to Alan (bigmincey) top bloke and currently braking a zed

Why????? if its only affecting a certain area thats all that needs replaced, not the whole fookin sill, if you look at most of the others on the forum who have had sill work done you will notice have only replaced the sill return area! :) :) and thats one of the reasons im in the middle of repairing my sills, the other is that ive inspected a lot of cars that have been involved in accidents that have just crumpled up because of corrosion in the sill areas.

Managed to do mine in place by using a large g clamp and a few smacks with a hammer, dont know if I was just lucky though as expected id have to remove the complete assembly

lol, only seen it from a distance so far, really will need to go see it up close sometime, specially as I live less than 2 miles from the bloody thing!!!!

They cant fail the sills for being corroded at the jacking points, only if the corrosion is within 30cm of a safety critical component ie suspension, steering, brake component or a seat belt mounting point etc. So have a look at the areas they have failed and check to see it has been failed correctly, tbh the main area of Z sill weakness appears to be the sill returns which is well within 30cm of the rear suspension mountings. do a forum search on corrosion and you will find lots of recent posts..... the Z sills are quite complex and you will find more corrosion has occurred internally than is first apparent, to repair them properly involves a lot of work, but you could probably get someone to patch them up fairly cheaply however this really isnt ideal because the body structure strength will be greatly reduced and the rust will just pop back through in a year or so, much better to bite the bullet and get it done properly. The subframe dosent need to be fully removed to replace the brake pipes, just dropped down out of position, done mine 2 yrs ago no problem dropping the subframe, you need to remove some of the boot trim to remove the top shocker nuts and then remove the subframe nuts the frame lowers enough to do the job, its still akward but can be done, dont just do the 3 that failed do them all that way you dont have to do it all again next year

fingers crossed it aint like this when you start prodding around then http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=90246 :)

Yep exactly or even worse just fibre glass it, which is what happened to me after asking a body shop to weld a plate over it to tide me over until i could get the job done properly....... now doing it myself to make sure its done

Hard to put a cost on it until you start to do the job and see whats involved. theres been a couple of threads lately on corrosion and a few comments about costing £200 to get a rear sill fixed. To be honest I think that is a bit on the low side considering the work involved to do the job properly if the inner panels are shot as well, theres a lot of fabrication work needed and that takes time. If your really lucky you may only need an outer sill and the section painted so may get away with £200. I wasnt lucky and recon if I were to put it into a specialist i'd be nearer the £2000 mark.........thats if you can get one to do the job most of the body shops I spoke to werent interested when they found out the age of the car, all they want to do is accident damage repairs to new motors

Is it surface rust or bubbling under the paint? if its the latter the rust will have come through from the inside and what you see will be the tip of the iceberg. I'm in the process of doing my sills at the moment and found that the inner panels of the rear and front sections of sills were fooked far worse than the outer panel. If you just weld up the outer panel it will look fine for a while but will eventually corroded through again plus the strength of the sills will be affected. better cutting it all out and replacing the metal

Yes I was adding the the percentage of tints, you advised on a 50% tint and as I said most motors have a tint already in them usually around 20%, adding up to a total of 70% tint which would allow only 30% light transmission through the window. Legal requirement is for a minimum visible light transmission of 75% through the front window and 70% on the front side windows. unless the vehicle was first used before april 1985 which is 70% in both cases. http://www.vosa.gov.uk/vosacorp/repository/Tinted%20Windows%20Nov%202005.pdf#xml=http://www.vosa.gov.uk/SCRIPTS/texis.exe/webinator/search/xml.txt?query=tinted+windows&pr=CORP&order=r&cq=&id=460f3ce523

PS you can fix the Z cheaper :D

Mondeos a nice motor but watch for missfiring problems, a workmate has one and its cost him a small fortune to repair, full set of injectors and pipes a year ago and last week he had to replace the clutch assembly at well over £300 some sort of damper built in apparently (cant remember if he had to replace the flywheel as well) seems to be a common fault and he did it on the cheap by doing the work himself..... and parts were bought at discount through a friend in the trade.