Yowser

For a straight bolt in fitment, the only option is a set of Recaro's from a 300zx which came as an optional extra in later years.

The "pale crap yellow" that you refer to is the only stock yellow available, is called 'Pearl glow yellow' and was an expensive extra. All other yellows are aftermarket resprays. Im sure owners of this rare colour really appreciate your description.

Anyone have a 93-94 Sales brochure scanned, that shows full details of Interior options ?

Its quite a rare colour in the U.S, be good to see one in that Colour over here. I really like it. There was a thread on 300zxclub.com of just gold Z's, but I cant find it now. Will post it up if I do. Echo...Echo... :p

ej0

The Z was available in Gold as a standard colour for the U.S Market. Its not going to be exactly same colour but should give a good idea of how it will look : I've always liked it, but I can imagine it wont be to everyones taste.

The D2's are good value, if you shop around a bit companies are often doing deals. The Z32 kit is identical to the Skyline and 200sx(s14) kit. You shoud notice a stronger intial bite with them, but the main reason to upgrade to larger brakes is for the improved heat dissapation - which reduces overheating that causes brake fade issues over prolonged hard braking - such as on the Track and from very high speed.

The insurance companies pull records from the dvla database from what's on the V5 , and on imports its usually incorrect. Your lucky it even comes up as 300zx Enter the vehicle details manually for insurance quotes

Yep, that's it

How do you mean it activates , the rear end feels wobbly? If so then its likely due to worn hicas steering arm joints or worn rear shock absorbers. The Hicas is a mid-high speed handing aid that turns the rear wheel in a certain direction by up to 1degree, dependng on your speed and steering angle.

you should find here is a hole in the disc hub sruface, between the wheel studs that you can screw an appropriately sized bolt into, which will force the disc off.

Atari 520 STFM NES Game Gear Gameboy Playstation1 Xbox Xbox 360 - Have now, but only use to stream Movies from PC Wii - Have now, but only the kids really use it

^^^^ This, and the SR and Rb26 is no stranger to the same issues. If I was you, I would source a good known VG and look into either drysumping (expensive but very favourable solution), or look at improving oil return from from the heads to the sump and fit a larger sump (SPL make one) and an Oil Accumulator system, such as Accusump.

Cruize are one these cheapo ebay brands, that do copies of other wheels. Prob best to google for other reviews on them, as I know owners with similar brands have had issues with fractures and severe cracking just from regular occuring Impact forces. Another thing is the lack of laquer or too thin laquer causing premature corrosion, literally within a month of purchase. Hate to come across so negative, especially as they do look really nice, but make sure you know what your getting.

Have you been driving it around like that? Its possible internal bearing/shaft damage could of been caused as it required the fluid for lubrication and cooling.....but if not then once bled all should be ok.

Yep sounds like you have air in the system. Bleed it by turning to full lock, hold, turn to opposite lock, hold, keep doing till all ok. Leave cap of while you do it and Make sure the pot stays topped up

Cant remember for sure. I may be mixing up the Auto and Manual there.......somebody else will remember and reply ? I'll correct/add to my list if anybody else can confirm bits.

^^^ah yes, spigot bush. You'll need to get a new one of them from Nissan or MJP, rather than use old one. Quite oftem I've seen kits arrive with flywheel and clutch bolts missing. These can be very expensive to source. About £90 for a full set of flywheel bolts for example.

Gearbox Clutch Flywheel Clutch bolts Flywheel bolts Front prop half 2x Bellhousing Plates Gearshifter support bracket Gear shifter 2x rubber Gearshift gaitors 1x Leather gearshift gaitor Clutch Pedal box, with Booster if TT Brake pedal box (or cut your existing brake pedal) Clutch Master cylinder Clutch Slave cylinder Clutch hydraulic pipework - or custom 1m Braided hose with M10 fittings Spigot Bushing - new Thats from my dodgy memory though, its been a while since I did any conversions, somebody may be able to post a "how to" guide with a list to confirm I've got it all...or confirm if I have forgotten anything.

You could leave the catch, it would not interfere with the lack of a catch on your S2, or you could remove. I cant recall how it would look with the catch removed from the door... As for the belts, yeh just remove them from the S1 doors and fit your S2 cards and S2 door pillar over it.

Side impact bar is the only difference that i cant think of....although that may not have even come in till S3. Either way, no difference in terms of fitment

yep, me likey

Never driven the 535d, but on paper it looks fantastic. I'd still go for the 530d though, since economy is a major selling point of a diesel and its plenty fast enough, very impressive engine. Smooth, refined, revvy and bundles or horsepower and torque.

LOL It does have a front bumper (99spec), unfortunatly it and half of the rest of the car is Primer grey currently.

:confused: dont need to be low, just from the rear. Its just the only pic I had from straight on.