Yowser

The Hicas was designed as a mid-high speed handling aid, but in reality its more of a sales gimmick. With everything in top condition most owners wont even notice the difference, but as parts wear it becomes very apparant and has an adverse affect on handling - making the rear-end feel skittish and unpredictable. Lane changing on motorways is probably one of the more noticable affects of hicas. Some replace to simplify, reduce weight and save money on replacing parts. Typically its the inner and out arm joints that wear. Some replace becuase they want to use the car on the track or for drifting, where they want full control and predicitable handling, rather than a system trying to aid you. It makes drifitng and holding slides more difficult, as it feels like its trying to correct the slide for you to certain degree.

Electric fans were around and used extensively in older cars of the Z32 generation, typically in cheaper low-end cars. The Viscous fan was used becuase its a better system, more expensive and complex but more efficient. In general , Top end modern cars use Viscous fan setups now (Bmw, merc...etc), and cheaper makes use Electric fan setups (ford, vauxhall..etc). The Stock Viscous setup can flow 6000cfm at full chat, 3x the amount of the typical electic can setup. If you spend the money on the right components, with a big enough fan motor and decent electric temp control of the fan it will do an adequate job, but It costs more to swap to a aftermarket electric setup; and It wont offer improved cooling, reliablity or vehicle performance. Thats if you spend the money on a decent setup and spend the time setting it up - I've had to rip out several inferior electric fan kits from owners cars, causing overheating problems and the owners could not of been happier once reverted back to the excellent viscous setup. Plus the viscous sounds better :)

Loads of threads on this, in the past and recently. Its not a valid mod, its even been proven to make less power with the change done. The valve is set to open at that angle for optimum flow due to the angle of the intake pipe flow. Opening it further would potentially reduce flow.

Your in luck, remapped chip for the Z ECU will cost you around £100. make sure she is running 100% - Compression, Fueling, Boost/vacumn leaks and cooling system check. your basic mods will see you well on the way to 400bhp - Induction kit, Catback exhaust, Chipped ECU, Boost upgrade to 1bar. Then you can look at : Lightweight Pulleys, Lightweight Flywheel, Lightweight one price prop, Divorced Wastegate downpipes and Decat - All help to improve reponse, spoolup/lag - resulting in a much livelier free-revving engine.

Sexy !! :thumbup1:

Really It depends largely on the spring rates purchased. There's going to be a little variance with brands, mostly dependent on quality but a lot of brands are all produced by the same Manufacture, just sold under differnet labels.

the other way around, I'd say. It seems everyone who has ever purchased one, paid £5-£20. Amazon prices do not reflect the true value. People are not actually going to buy it from Amazon for thos prices.

Seems its not just a Jap thing - Had several UK owners say their original exhausts had the exact same restrictors in too, in response to threads about it on here before.

Until late 92. ie. Series 1 only.

Zclub have a large stand there every year, and we join them.

Nope, If were talking the same model for each (TT LWB).

My list. Previous cars I'd consider interesting in blue : 1983 Mk3 Escort 1984 Mk3 Escort 1985 Austin Montego 1993 Renault Clio 16v 1995 Citroen ZX Volcane 1992 Toyota Celica GT-Four ST185 2000 Audi A4 2000 Audi A3 Sport 1990 Citroen AX GT 1992 Golf GTi 2000 VW Passat Turbo 2000 Honda Civic Aerodeck Vtec 1992 Bmw 535is Sport E34 1998 Renault Scenic 1887 Renault Laguna 1992 Nissan 300zx 2+2 TT Manual 1991 Nissan 300zx 2+2 NA Manual 1995 Peugeot 306 D 1999 Peugeot 406 TD 1992 Nissan 200sx Turbo S13 2000 Honda HRV 4wd 1991 Nissan 300zx 2+2 NA Auto 1988 Toyota Mr2 mk1 1993 Toyota Mr2 mk2 rev2 1994 Landrover Discovery 1999 Citroan Xantia 1998 Toyota Celica GT ST202 1993 Nissan 300zx Slicktop TT Manual (currently own) 1996 Alfa Romeo 155 V6 1999 Alfa Romeo 156 TS 1999 Renault Scenic 2000 Renault Megane sport 1997 Bmw E39 5series 2000 Ford Focus Zetec (currently own) 2001 Honda Accord Vtec Sport 2001 Volkswagen Passat 1.8T (currently own) Kawasaki AR50 Kawasaki AR80 Yamaha DT50 Yamaha DT125 Suzuki RM250

edit : misread - Jeff has covered it.

it will cost you more for new standard suspension items that it will for the Meister R's Fitting nearly new, like what andyzx has is good, but fitting older 2nd hand stuff is pointless. Most owners are running around on tired old stock suspension that should of been replaced many years ago.

As is said in the other thread - its s shame they are hard to see in daylight. Makes them fairly useless. Also still cant decide if they are cool and modern or tacky and very "80's". what on earth made luke think spraying his interior primer grey was a good idea :scared: edit : I may have got out of the wrong side of the bed today btw :sleep:

sexy fan :thumbup:

I think k-sports are about 700-800 ?, and would be considered the budget aftermarket upgrade. The expensive option are the more hardcore brake options that the k-sports are cheap copies of, like AP Racing..etc - £2000-£2500

yep, I agree....selling just a bare shell is a very limited market. Funnily enough the 2 people I know of that were crazy enough to undertake such a project are myself and you Pete :stupid: My shell was quite a lot more than free though....in fact more than people buy complete working Z's for these days. :blink:

Exactly, very high demand for swb and especially slicktop specific parts. Dont see how you could think the lwb would fetch more money breaking. Taff's is a slicktop TT manual, but he's asking about how much the shell is worth, not the parts of it.

Which fuses did you check ? The culprit is typically the one on top row in the drivers footwell. Full beam is hte safety state for when there is a problem, to eenable you to see where you going still if the circuit breaks.

Really hard to say how much you'd get for a Bare shell, your typical LWB shell would be scrapped but if you can find somebody looking to build up a slicktop then you may be able to sell. Somebody looking to build a Dedicated track car for example. There will be certain parts that most owners would want with the shell, as they can be a nightmare to find seperatly though. Supply vs Demand though. SWB specific parts are a lot rarer and hard to come by, there are owners that have been after parts for many months, even years, without a suitable breaker becoming available. Compared that to a LWB where there are half a dozen always being broken for parts at any one time. For example - Took me 4 months to find a SWB drivers window and I was working near the largest Z breaker in the country at the time, that had 2-3 new z's coming in to be broken every week and had access to a storage of 10+ LWB drivers windows that nobody wanted. I've been looking for 9+ months now for slicktop roof trims, and looks like Im going to have to buy them new(very expensive). I also know a few owners that have been after swb interior panels for a long time now. Its extremely rare for SWB's to get broken and as for slicktops...

They also do a range of "car cleaning kits" with a Z on - Sponge, shampoo...etc Not entirely sure how Aldi works but the offers seem to come and go every so often

Yep its road legal, I've been planning to go with the Race2 dash for a while now. The only downside to that particular one is the limit of 6 availalable analogue inputs, but its fully expandable with full datalogging capabilities. The AIM MXL and Racepak IQ3 are others to consider for similar price. There is the ETb Digidash too, but it looks very "toy like" ; better suited to a Mini, than a Z, then there is the very expensive Motec and stack offerings.

Refurbish them with new seals and pistons.

Shame you cant see them in daylight though