Yowser

its called a "bodge" lol Could be a dodgy PCV bypass or some other vacumn blocked off. Pretty shoddy method though. If it is the booster vacumn, then most likely the Booster has a leak and its been blocked off at the plenum/balance bar end. No reason to just block it off if doing a Manual conversion if the booster is working. No need for the expansion tank. Just go direct from balance bar to booster with the standard one way valve and pipes. Providing you have the Manual balance bar then you wont need any further parts. Very quick and simple to connect. Thats usual practice for a manual conversion. If you only have auto balance bar, then you can T-off the Brake booster pipe from the plenum instead. Seperate feeds is preferable though.

The other method is to short out the pins on the Diagnostic plug in drivers footwell. Details http://www.twinturbo.net/ttnetfaq/FAQpages/ECUdiagnostics.html

Turn the ignition switch on Turn it fully clockwise. Wait a few seconds, then turn fully counter clock-wise. Read the codes from the flashing LED on the side of the ECU or the check engine light on dash. Long flash is first digit, short flash is 2nd digit.

Just fit a Jap rear bumper with them in as standard. Readily available for next to nothing. The Jap bumper is better looking anyway, as it gets rid of the ugly fog lights in the rear.

I like the S13, more than the FTO, I used to own a facelift S13 180sx. There isn't a huge amount in it, but in standard form the S13 is slower than the FTO gpx ! Its less powerful (169hp vs 200hp) and a little heavier. Ofcoure a s13 being turbocharged is a lot easier to tune, and most are running some form of boost increase these days anyway. For insurance, the reason I mentioned newer is because newer often means higher value. Although both cars can be picked up for peanuts these days, generally speaking and especially when insurance grades were set a FTO would cost more to replace than a SX. Plus the FTO was only available as an Import, unlike the SX - which scares Insurers when it comes to part prices and being able to source them and is probably the main reason for a high insurance grade. But my brother in law is only paying the same as the Celica he had before, and I just looked that up and its insurance group 14.

Forgot to say, Imports dont have official Insurance group ratings. Its down the individual insurance company, but I know my brother-in-law is paying about the same for his GPX that he paid for his Celica 2.0GT that it replaced. Not too suprising its more than a S13 though - They are newer, more powerfull and quicker than the S13 (a standard one anyway).

True but thats not a GPX. Difficult to be exact as the seller quotes GL and there is no such model:bored: It looks to me a GR model which is 168 BHP, chocolate brakes and VVVVVVVVEEEEEEEEEEEERY SLOW. Now I like the look of them but after driving one THEY ARE SHEEEEITE. IMHO :wheelchair::wheelchair: yeh, the one in that advert looks to be a GR. But still dont see how you would consider 168bhp from a 2.0 to be really slow. Its still a lot more power than most 2litres have and weights less than 1200kg. Is the 300zx TT the standard for all cars, and anything thats not as fast should be rediculed as being really slow?

yes you can - Similar power, similar weight, similar performance figures......you can compare them all day long ;)

Very true. But I think thats one of the things that makes them nice junior jap performance cars for the young and Inexperienced.

Slow ? No, Not at all, all things relative ofcourse. The GPX model has 200bhp from a 2.0 NA. For comparison most 2.0 cars have around 130bhp ! Offers similar Performance to a 300zx NA......or a Civic Type-R (re: recent thread) I'd consider them to be good intro's to Japanese performance, I helped source one for my brother-in-law recently and he's very happy with it.

Aluminium heads with cast iron block means HG or head warping is very likely if the car overheats from other causes. Not prone to HG failure otherwise though.

:x: Forgot about this :( Hope you all had a good time.

Yeh, well known here, but very difficult to deal with.

Never removed one, but from that pic it looks like there must be a bolt coming through the floor for it ? But then I cant remember seeing such a bolt in the boot/rear seat area....hmmmm..

Most of the onine couriers are a set price up to a set limit. For Parcel2go for example, who I have always used, its about 10 pound for anything up to 35kg and about 1m in length. If your parcel is heavier/bigger then you just pay a premium on top.

Bit of a nigthmare, but Good to hear you got sorted, nice one Ian. :thumbsup: Also good to hear you back in Z ownership Indian_zx but, blimey, What sort of Immobiliser does this thing have ! lol The 45min break thing is a legal requirement, no matter who your breakdown cover is with unfortunatly. Would of been nice if they had told you in advance though.

Go test drive an Rx7, see if its right for you. I've always been a fan of the looks, but was dissapointed when I had a good look over one and drove it.

Win7 for sure.

Its meant for people who want the plain look. My personal favourite. If you wanted to stick the Jap Z logo on there, then you could do. Its a Plastic badge, that stick in place and is located with two pin holes. Easy to drill. The Nissan logo is recessed into the nose panel originally. Either go Plain or Z badge, in my opinion. They are definatly the better looking options.

I like the 996 carrera 4s, I'd have one. Very comparable to a stock TT in performance - similar power, similar weight. The GT3 is tasty, and appeals to me more than the Turbo.

Wheel hop under hard acceleration from standstill (is differnet to skipping/sliding/swerving), and feels like a severe Judder is typically caused by either worn Shock absorbers or Worn Rear subframe bushes. Skipping, sliding, swerving and a general unsettled feel at the rear is often causes by either worn hicas bushes (inner or outer) or rear shockabsorbers. Alignment issues or play in all suspensoin components should be checked though. The Shock themselvers are very cheap, about 30-40 a side, but if they are worn then you should also consider replacing the fronts and check every suspension component. Unfortunatly your not alone in this, most Z's out there are running around on tired old suspension and owners either just dont realise or they ignore it.

Welcome and Gratz on the purchase.

Presume were not talking about the silver Z in your rides ? as it has Jap spec front and rear bumpers. If the car has all the UK parts you mention that its more than likely a UK car thats been registered overseas for somebody in the Military...etc Checking the VIN number length, as Richard says would be the easiest check.

All UK cars have the belts on the B-pillars. Jap imports had them on the doors until aug 92

Yep. 4.1 is correct for Leader gears. The TT diff ratio is 3.69 The NA diff ratio is 4.08