Yowser

http://www.specialtyZ.com/catbacks.htm Available in 2.5" and 3"

If you pull across the front of a truck...thats what happens, and its not that uncommon either......my old man's ran a haulage company for 30+ years and I've heard plenty of similar stories. In fact he himself once pushed a french copper in an unmarked police car several hundred yards down the road in similar fashion.......the policeman ended up taking him to dinner to apologise !

Im quite happy viewing forum as it is on the Iphone....have you got a link to a site that uses it so I can compare ?

The non-brake light version is a good price, if you've ever handled one you'll see why it costs that much. Its not just a strip of perspex. the brake light version is overpriced imo though.

Yes, with Nissan part numbers. You will be very lucky to get one 2nd hand. There are not that many with them fitted in the first place and they get bonded on and tend to break on removal.

26590-49P00 without brake light - £50'ish 26590-30P15 with brake light - £120'ish Brake light is built-in and included in the brake light version. Prices depend on individual dealer network.

ahh..just seen your sig pic. They are 200sx S14 wheels.

UK cars had a 8.5" rear wheel with 245 tyre JAP cars had a 7.5" rear wheel with 225 tyre

I thought ti looked incredible when I saw the show, not so sure now in the pics.... reckon that's a bargain still. Leepu is a twat though.

Probably wont see this thread, so post in his section : http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=38 or contact him via his website http://www.mjpauto.com or you could buy used, try Zedworld.

That means the problem (the bad connection) is between the connector and the ECU, and yes the best way is to wire the resistor at the ECU. This is a more favourable method at all times IMO. if your getting code34 then it is in Safety mode.

whats even worse is thats standard - rare (for a reason!) Nissan U.S option.

:lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol:

You will need a 1 Mohm Resistor , there should be quite a few threads on it.

Knock sensor connector. Once end goes to the knock sensor (which is down back of the engine between the heads....not reachable). The other ends joins up with the rest of the EFI loom to the ECU. If its been bypassed then the 2 ends would be disconnected but one end should have a Resistor soldered into it. ...otherwise the car will be in safety mode - Retarded Timing, richer fuel maps, retarded boost = Slow.

How about Castle Motors@ Castle combe, as per the plan last year ?

SC - south central D&C - Devon & Cornwall RR - Rolling road ASG - Avon, Somerset & Gloucester TSR - A Company in Bridgwater with Rolling road. REO - Regional Events organiser

Yeh. But wouldnt bother with TSR.

5k for an ugly 99-reg 2.0 Auto 4-door saloon Nissan :rofl: :rofl:

I've posted up quite a bit of stuff previously, but I dont really have the time to do a full write up. See here instead http://www.300zxclub.com/forumdisplay.php?f=83, Lots of stickies on NA>TT conversion.

Marginally lighter....nothing in comparison to a Aftermarket lightweight flywheel though. Trouble is you would also have to use an NA Clutch (uprated) to fit to the NA flywheel.

Your looking at the wrong bit. Datascan is is there and is for our ODD-1 cars .....however this thread breaks forum AUP, and if the Software developer see's it, which is quite likely as he is a member here and so are his Resellers ! ....then the club will get in a lot of legal trouble for allowing it !!

That was Paul@swz's Convertible. Topless also has a converted TT Vert.

Unless the car is something very special it really does make much more sense to just buy a TT manual in the first place. I've worked on 2x NA>TT conversions, but one was a Convertible (TT version never available) an the other had a lot of money already spent on its bodywork to make it worthwhile. Its more popular in the U.S where 2+2 or Slicktop owners will convert their NA's to TT becuase they were only ever available there as NA in the U.S. But if you insist then keep an eye out for an Accident damaged TT manual, or a Rotting UK model - its easier to use a complete Donor vehicle than source indvidual parts. To answer your questions : Propshaft - You need Front half from a TT Manual and keep your NA rear half. Loom - Your NA loom is fine. No boost solenoids, they can be wired in but most people just fit a Boost controller. ECU - Yes you want a TT ECU or chip your NA ecu with a TT chip. Engine Mounts - Same You will need : TT Conversion TT Engine TT ECU Intercoolers and pipework TT Radiator Manual conversion Gearbox Clutch Flywheel Front prop half Bellhousing shields Gearshifter support bracket 2x rubber Gearshift faitors Clutch Pedal box Brake pedal box (or cut your existing brake pedal) Clutch Master cylinder Clutch Slave cylinder Clutch hydraulic pipework - or custom 1m Braided hose with M10 fittings You will find there are no brackets for the Intercooler pipework, so you will have to fabricate these (or cut them from the TT and weld in). Its mainly the 2 brackets either side the radiator you will find you need most. Other option is to fit an aftermarket FMIC which uses custom pipework. The NA and TT radiator lower support brackets are in different locations. Ideally you would want to cut and reweld them in the correct place. The TT alternator is higher amps, so you can swap that although not essential. You will need the cog from an NA Manual speed sensor to match your NA rear diff. Gear cog is available separately from Nissan dealer. NA and TT fuel pumps do differ, but the NA pump provides enough fuelling. You will need to swapover the PAS bracket from your NA engine to the TT, in order to fit your NA PAS pump. umm....This is of the top of my head so I may have missed something but I think thats everything, If i rememebr anything else I will add it to the list.

You can retain the NA ecu if you wish, BUT you must have it rechipped with a TT mapped chip !! Do not attempt to run it using a stock NA ECU. using the NA ECU (but chipped with TT Maps) allows you to retain the stock NA fuel controller, and then match it up with a TT fuel pump. Single solenoid + T-piece. Twin solenoid EBC's is just increased accuracy thing..nothing to do with number of turbos. The Profec B spec II is a great little Boost controller. Probably the most popular out there.