Yowser

Cheapest option is to get hold of another 2nd hand NA engine and drop it in. Dont bother rebuilding the current one. If you want to go TT then , as above, get yourself a complete TT donor car. Zedworld dont do rebuilds.

I moved mine to the where the battery tray is located. I have ditched and moved most of the items in my bay too. The last job to do before respray is to move the fuse box to the battery tray area as well.

I wasn't saying there was anything wrong with a Pattern Matrix ! :confused: I was only clarifying that you need to buy a non-OEM version to save money, instead of from Nissan or MJP.

Yep, its possble to replace both with engine in. Passenger side is definatly easier though. But its much easier and can be quicker just to pull engine. An experienced Z mechanics can pull engine in a couple of hours...and at least with the engine out its a very simple job to replace tubs and you can be sure you have every oil and water feed and return plumbed in securely.

Stunning ! the Orange works so well too. :cool:

Jimmer in Bristol is your Man for the Job. By far the most highly recommended Engine rebuilder for the Z and right on your doorstep. Zedworld are more your basic service and engine swaps garage. You would have to check if they will do Headgasket jobs as Im not sure. D2 seem to get good reviews from those that have used them. The forum does'nt have garage traders anymore, other than Zedworld who are here as a Used parts trader.

Out of all the VG's I've seen that have shot a rod out the side of the block (and that's quite a few) ......most of them were NA's. I believe the NA gets abused more than the TT engine, becuase you need to really rev them a lot more to get the best out of them.

:cool: Back is a tad to low though imo

...and completely throw of your brake bias. Bad idea.

Neverheard of it. Looked it up, its in the middle of knowhere, bristol is closer to those of us in Somerset. Better off sticking to the M5 corridor ?

http://www.ukmot.com/1-1.asp http://www.motuk.co.uk/manual_110.htm http://www.opsi.gov.uk/si/si1989/Uksi_19891796_en_16.htm

From what I understand, this is only if you buy a patterm part (non oem). The OEM P10 Matrix is actually more expensive than the 300zx one, its only becuase there are Cheap pattern versions available for the P10 that it can be a cheaper option.

very good point. This is how I angled mine..same as the stock oem headunit angle.....not the same angle as the fascia. So it points at your head, not the roof. It was much more difficult to do, but well worth it for visibility.

I like them. Used to have them occasionaly if I was on long road trips, they always sell them in Services. Much better than the Supermarket own brand immitations- vile!.

He dissapeared from the other site about 9 months ago too....but reappeared once last month, looking for Z32 parts. Company is called "7star Car sales" btw, and no longer specialises in Imports....well at least that was the case last time anyone heard from him.

Definatly hit up Zclub and speak to some of the guys. They suffer very badly with body corrosion - Poor quality steel. It seems popular to import shells from the dry U.S states, and then convert to RHD with a UK scrapper. I really really really want a 240z with either a RB26 or a Vh45de V8 in :cool: :drool:

Zclub.net - They have a section specific to Hybrid Z's. Sticking in a little 4pot does nothing for me , Go for Rb26, VG30 or Vh45 in my opinion. Sourcing a decent 240z in the first place is no easy feat.

Some poor choices in there. Should of had the Impreza, Evo, Mk4 Supra. Rx7 and Skyline in there

parcel2go.co.uk - Used DHL. About £10 for up to 35kg , excess is'nt too bad if its over that

What spring rates did you go for ? (or just the standard supplied rates ....12/10 I think)

Shortsifter = Harder/more effort .....but less movement, so in theory quicker gear changes. In reality its more about the sporty feel. Some love, some hate. Some shortshifters also produce a clunky noise on each gear change, which again appeal to some and not to others. The suggestion by 6volt, or fitting brass bushings would help to relieve some of the stiffness. Its also true that overtightening is a common sympton of stiff gearchange, and I've also seen problems with people unable to get into some gears because they have incorrectly used bolts too long to mount the shifter that actually fowl with the linkage.

I had a 155 V6 with the same engine you posted, sold it to get the 156. Very good engine...surprisingly responsive.

Great pics. Splitter looks factory. I have a T-plate 156 2.0 as well, my feelings/experience towards it are very different from yours though !

For the rear 9.5j ET35 is the limit on stock arches...so yeh a 20 would need a lot of arch work! ET20 is about the limit on the front with a 8.5j without arch work......could squeeze a 15 under with some archwork.

Rears ok. Front offset is weak though. Do they offer any lower offsets for the 8.5" .....ET18, ET22, ET25 ? Otherwise your going to want to be bolting on a 15mm spacer to get it looking right.