Yowser

I've used Kyle @ IPP too , usually use z1 or czp for parts though They hold more stock . Kyle hasan excellent reputation for his engine builds. Buying from uk traders could be an issue ATM too, most hold very little stock and order from overseas

That was Leatherette. Personally though Im not a fan of DIY retrims. I've seen dozens and dozens of examples in person and not one, including my own attempts, are what I would be happy with. There are always imperfections - stretches, marks, bubbles ...etc many of the Panels needs to be sewn to avoid stretching and its its only the pro jobs that come out perfect so for the slicktop I choose to use a Professional trimmer and very happy with the results (who removed the original material).

air bubbles, it was my first try 6 years ago. But not nobbly , the material is too thick to show any glue residue underneath.

I used universal "low height" sliding rails for mine, then cut off the mounting feet from a stock z frame and welded them onto the universal frame. Sits noticably lower than the stock seats can go.

Nope. The Manuals do not require clutch press for starting, although this method could be utilised.

Im not aware of the pressure switch relation to the Sub fan, nor is the service manual, and never seen seen/heard the fan come in on any Z that has acceptable engine coolant temps. As far as Im aware the fan operation is Enging coolant temperature and road speed controlled only, where it basically doesn't come on unless temp is above 90c with aircon on and over 105c with Aircon off. NA has 1 speed and TT has high and low speed controls. If Jeff is correct then I apologise for incorrect info.

6800rpm Rev limit Stock Jap 225/50/16 Wheel size 4.08 NA Rear diff 2nd gear autobox ratio 1.544 = 79.7 mph

I dont think the E34 would suit the sleeper look at all. They came with Plenty of powerfull engine options. My old 535i Sport had 210bhp, and would easily keep with a NA Z, while the 540i V8 had 290hp, the M5 had 315bhp and is an amazing engine, and the rare and rediculous quick Alpina B10 bi-turbo had 360bhp. People expect Bmw's to be quick.

Speak to Lisaf (forum name). She used to (may still do) supply kits to convert them on ebay.

501 bulbs. Not sure about holders, I guess if you tell a local motor factors it for a 501 bulb fitment hey should be able to supply.

I wouldnt worry about the rough surfaces. This is the first panels I did back in 2004. Original material removed, no sanding or anything else : Smooth finish. Whatever material you get it, it tends to be cotten(or similar) backed. I've done 3 Z's myself and never had an issue with rough surfaces. Forgot to mention when it comes to the doorcards I left the original material on, but removed it for the other panels.

You can, but have to run it a lower boost pressure (such as 6-7psi, Stock TT boost is 9.5psi) becuase of the higher compression ratio. The higher compression does mean however that the car will make quite a bit more power at that boost than the TT would normally make. It all bolts straight on though, with the exception of some brackets missing for the Intercooler pipe work. You would need the TT sump, Injectors and ECU also. All of the parts could be had pretty cheap from a Breaker, no more than a few hundred pounds for everything you need.

A Sil80. S13 180sx with Silvia frontend. Had a friend with a VG30DETT fitted in one, but utilising the Inlet and exhaust manifolds from the VG30DET to run a massive single turbo setup. Not exactly a classic though lol

It does'nt really matter. Although bear in mind that if you get Manual conversion from a TT then it will have the TT clutch which would be more suitable if you went turbo later on. You would have to swap the TT speed sensor cogg (£10) for an NA version to match your NA diff ratio. Although you can get uprated NA clutches. As for the Rear mounted turbo setup...... Its much much cheaper and more efficient to get hold of a set of stock TT manufolds, turbos, Intercoolers and pipework and bolt them to your NA engine. Run a safe low 6psi and it will create more power than a Stock TT and be noticable quicker combined with your NA rear diff. Or just do a complete TT conversion, which is also a lot cheaper and far more efficient than the rear mounted setup.

whats confusing and why is Joining Daimler going to result in shit cars ?

Its not technically an aircon fan, its the emergency cooling backup fan and it should not be coming on at all under normal circumstances. Disconnect the relay link, not required.

Welcome :)

Kaminari spoiler Wings West Skirts Wings West Rear bumper 99spec rear lights ...ofcourse the real reason it looks good is becuase its a SWB ;)

I wouldnt bother with 6x9's or any rear speakers. Concentrate on quality front components, and a Sub in the boot for the best sound.

John, is Paul no longer in contact with his trimmer ? He did an excellent job on the ones SWZ were selling back in the day.

Standard practice is to remove the old material. You'll also want to use this to create your templates for the new material. Evostick Solvent Instant conntact adhesive is great stuff for this job. Comes in a tin, and make sure you get the Solvent version. The non-solvent version is crap.

Racing Driver ofcourse ! But as mummy and daddy never introduced me to Karting at a young age, I've had to settle for Designing/Developing Race cars instead.

Yep, No. 14.

Just checking you were talking about the electric can in engine bay rather than the Blower fan in dash. Presuming its the engine bay fan (under nose panel) you mean then Check your temp sender connector on the top water pipe. Its the larger of the 2 connectors. Poor connection will result in a lost temp signal to the ECU which will switch on that fan.

The Electric Fan in front of the radiator, underenath the Nose panel ?