WillyEd

nothing compared to an HKS triple plate! But absolutly no slip regardless of how much power I lay down

I was unlucky i guess then , every single connector in that style had green crusty stuff inside. I've heard that its to do with the high frequency of the signal (in the case of injector connectors), but that wouldn't explain why the IAA and AAC had green stuff on mine?? O well, they're the last two which I've yet to change.

det sensor will be the same, along with the IAA and AAC plugs too unfortunatly.

the fronts are _sooo_ much easier. i.e. no skinned knuckles :)

Beemers use paper filters though which could be more prone to splitting compared to our steel ones. However, I _only_ use OEM ones, which are actually cheapers then the patent ones in Halfords :)

If you remove the trim on the A-pillar (next to the windscreen) you'll find a plastic tube from the front drain hole. If you remove the trim from the B pillar (behind the seatbelt mechanism on a UK model Z) you'll find another drain tube. HTH Simon.

Hi Jock, I changed these last year using a normal split-end brake line spanner. However it was _really_ tight, and had loads of brake fluid all over my hand / drive way by the time I'd finished. (Having to turn the nut one facet at a time!) Getting my braided hoses on was no easier either! HTH Simon.

LOL at hermans sig :p

I've just found this regarding wheel weights (OEM and aftermarket) http://www.6mt.net/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=2372 300zx alloy (fronts) - 16lb, unspecified for rear, but probably a pound ot two more. However, if you change to aftermarket ones, you're adding a lot more weight it seems! My original search was to find the weights of some wheels I fancied, but they're 5lbs each heavier! Perhaps I'll buy some steel-ies! :D

That is normal. If you press the 'econ' button, it should drop back to approx 750rpm (if the engines warm, otherwise around 1000rpm, which will eventually drop to 750) si.

He wanted discount :)

Are you going to trim the panel down so it fits in the recess?

Got all excited for a while.... :D ..... ... but then found it was a hoax :S http://www.truthorfiction.com/rumors/g/giantwoman.htm ...arse (and a big one at that :))

So you think they've fitted them to the new 350Z for fun?

A very scary though with a single piece steel or aluminium shaft. But not a problem with CF. CF naturally rejects any standing waves, and even if an external force were applied to shatter a CF shaft, it'll splay like a paintbrush when pushed against a flat surface, causing little or no damage to the vehicle. (I must admit this was of high importance to me before I bought one). Hope this helps make anyones mind up, well worth the extra few quid IMO, since the damage to person and Z is un-imaginable with a steel shaft flailing around if the worst happened. 350Zs are equipped with CF props to BTW.

I've got an ACPT. Why not get one? Same price as a turbo, and will last a damn site longer??

I disagree. A CF prop is many times stronger than a steel one. In fact the UJ's are the limiting factor in power terms if you're talking breaking force. However, a CF prop is more expensive to manufacture, and more difficult to balance than a steel one.

I've got two new intake camcover seals here if you find a spare tenner in your wallet. (Like these: http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CP&Product_Code=13270-00001) Si.

ECU has gone into limp-home mode. Like Mike says, probably the AFM. Wish I could be of more help... Si.

They're press fitted into the ally. I was going to suggest silcone sealant, which will stop any air leaking from around the edge. But I'm sure you'll want something a little more solid. There's no danger of the pipe coming out completely, since the rubber hose at the bottom will hold it in place. (The rubber might well have have gone rock solid, after years of heat and oil vapor inside). If you wanted to change the camcovers for new ones / 2nd hand ones, it's a plenum off job, and you'll need two new intake camcover seals and a new plenum gasket. However taking the plenum off, may mean having to buy other various hoses, if they've hardened. Si.

Hiya Mike, There shouldn't be any play in these pipes. However, fixing them shouldn't be too much of a pain. I'd use epoxy for the joint with the aluminium cam covers. HTH Si.

I don't know where on earth you summoned that information from, 555's have a perfectly smooth tickover. I'm sure many other 555ers out there will agree. Whoever says otherwise, probably didn't have a chip for them LOL!

I'm sure AndyDuff, etc would agree with me on this one: We need a 'Rogue Traders' section! I recommend from now on, anyone visiting a tuning company for the first time should be wired up with the latest in hidden cameras / microphones and share the ridiculum with the masses afterwards! :) Seriously though, I'd insist on getting 2 or 3 quotes for _any_ work you might be having done (unless of course they're a trusted outfit). Regards Simon.