WillyEd

Just thought I'd share this information with you: Last May I had a full engine rebuild with new turbos, new air filter etc. (Due to some ring problems (not piles) I'm having to do another one). Anyway, whilst taking everything apart, I was quite shocked to see the damage apparent on the leading edge of the compressor wheels - This I can only attribute to the high RPM of the compressor wheel chopping into particles of dirt etc in the air line. Now, as I say everything was as air tight as (insert simile here), and the only way foreign matter could get in is through the air filter as intended. So what could have caused this? Well.. thinking back to last year somebody posted a thread on here related to the performance issue of all the leading brands of after market filters for the Z, and I clearly remember the comment that the HKS had the worst filtration of the lot. At the time, I just poo-poo'ed this remark thinking "those holes are tiny" - but it turns out that the HKS lets particles through about a hundred times larger than say the K&N (with its oiled filter)!! So not sure what filter to replace mine with, since after only 3500 miles in 11 months this damage is noticeable, I hate to think what it would be like in 5 years time. Anyway, I'm going to have a look for that thread now, and see what filter came up top! If you read this far, cheers :) p.s. Might post a picture in a bit, if the macro mode of my digital camera is able to capture it..

Why you using cheese strings to hold the engine up on the fork lift?? LOL :D

http://www.welovetheiraqiinformationminister.com/ muhahaha

What a monster!!! Nice one

oops, just realised you said that you've already swapped out the amp. Has to be a dodgy earth then... the pulsing noise is the amp powering off and on again. Remove your earth, clean up the connector and /or use some abrasive paper to get a nice clean bit of metal :rolleyes:

Burf, Sounds like one of the power transistors has gone in the amp. I assume you're running a multichannel amp in bridged mode for the sub?? If this is the case try connecting the sub to just one channel at a time to isolate a possible faulty channel. If this locates the fault, it shouldn't cost too much to fix - ask around your local ICE dealers and see who they suggest. Could also be the headunit - but this is less likely. HTH

Good work Ivan, hope you've got back some of your vaa vaa vooom! Might be worth resetting your ECU, if it's been running a bit dodgy for a while.

Crows foot socket, universal joint and an extension bar are all thats required.... and a strong arm... ;-) Seriously, thats all i used on October when my nearside started playing up. Had to remove the battery, but nothing else. (Changing the O2 sensor on the other side is much more tricky btw) HTH

Take a look about 2 inches lower than the coil pack connectors, and an inch further towards the centre of the engine - you should see a smaller connector (compared to the coil pack connector), with a rubber boot over the top to insulate the wire. Be careful, when removing them, you'll probably require a couple of small flat screwdrivers to prise the retainer clip off without breaking the aged and brittle plastic of the connector. Still if you do break em and/or you want new ones anyway - Courtesy Parts in the states sell replacement ones (in packs of three I seem to remember)

Ivan, Check your injector connectors - they go a very nasty green as the years go by. Usually the problem is made worse when hunting for the problem in the first place, since moving a connector will usually cause more resistance between the mating surfaces. A small flat needle file, a can of contact cleaner and a spare hour or so, should see you to a happier engine.. Hope this helps..

For those who might be interested, I've just been out and done done a compression test on all cylinders: [Cylinder No - Pressure (PSI)] 1 - 108 2 - 101 3 - 103 4 - 109 5 - 88 6 - 106 [Results were read after car had definitely reached normal operating temp, throttle fully open, all spark plugs removed, CAS disconnected) So... :eek: a tad under the Nissan minimum spec of 142 PSI - defo new ring time. Jez, thanks for pointing me in the direction of Hastings rings - reckon I'll either get these or some JE rings. (Hastings are preferable though) P.S. compression gauge I'm using is a Draper one (brand new)

Pistons are the same as standard (8.5 : 1). The amount of oil i've been putting in is a tiny amount - litterally a teaspoons worth (getting enough oil in to surround would be impossible due to the 60o tilt of the cylinders). Compression readings are altered slightly by the oil - but its still a little low for my liking. (Can't remember the actual PSI, but there's a green part of the gauge and i reach the low end of it)

Thanks for the quick responses guys. Jez, my PCV valves are still in place, so no catch tanks... My compression is a little close to the minimum spec for what Nissan specify. A few drops of oil in each cylinder helps - which isn't good. Unfortunatly, I think my problems were bought on by severe over fuelling (Dodgy SE chip :mad: ) which has glazed the bores during the run in process - so will need a re-hone to remove this. My fuelling has been corrected by an HKS fuel computer which is totally brilliant - but cannot 'undo' the glaze *sob* my breathers BTW, are running clean, and I'm not pushing any oil through into the upper plenum. Thanks again.. :)

I agree with Aaron here - I've done the same and had no prlbs - upper plenum stays cooler and must keep a cooler incoming air temperature?

:( Headache..... After running my engine in with TotalSeal rings - I've apparently got a problem which haunts most toalseal users - oil burn, and lot of it! So.... I need some 88mm (which is 1mm oversize for the VG30) rings. Nissan only go to +0.5mm, Johnny @ GPS hasn't a clue, and my local engine builders only suggestion is the 200SX rings - which are the correct size and shape apparantly - can anyone confirm this? (88mm, 1.6 top, 1.6 scraper, 4mm oil) Any help regarding 200sx rings or where i may source some rings from would be much appreciated Cheers

When I took my engine out - it was clear that the rust was caused by the foam strip that creates an air tight gap between cross-member (the rusty bit you're talking about) and the air condensor for the air con. My guess is the foam absorbs water and this coupled with the fact that the cross-member is made up of 3 or 4 sections spot welded together - and no form of sealant other the lap joints caused the rusting. Anyway, mine was very rusty - but cleaned it up and resprayed it. Speak to Duffer who I believe helped somebody change one. Hope this helps

Excellent.

Thanks for reminding me jaylox... I've got a pair of still bagged (brand new from Courtesy-parts) genuine wiper blades (not arms) which are no good to us UK / jap spec Zed owners. Make me an offer, and they're yours [anyone].. Cheers Simon.

Bagins / Andy it DOES matter which way around the wires go, since the injector is simply a solenoid. Put the voltage around the wrong way, and the pin will try moving the wrong direction inside the injector - releasing little or no fuel. Cheers Si p.s How's the motor coming on Dr Muff?

Hi Smithy, Any update on when these babies will be available? Happy New Year to all

Yes indeedy - and has saved me lots of time / money and grief. Easy to configure, which was especially important when I had my rolling road session about a month ago now to sort out my massive over fuelling problem Cheers

What a heap of shit! ;-)

Don't forget to put a film of CS over the pins too - this stopped the squeel on my brakes

Manual with a noisey main shaft bearing. I was / still am getting very mild det at 5 - 6K but Ray didnt seemed to concerned, which I was of course - My guess is that its still a tad rich up top because it chuffs a bit of smoke there. Also timing is set to -14 degrees BTDC (manual was 15 +/- 2), so i set if for 14 - is this an area for improvement. Cheers for this Warren, your input is most appreciated btw.

They've got the same sized turbine wheel, but the compressor housing has been made larger inside to accomodate a larger compressor wheel. That's all I can find at the moment. Doesn't give any sizes in the 'owners guide' for my blowers. I'd need to give TT a call to find the real spec. Cheers