WillyEd

pretty boring at this time too :-) but too knackered to go photoshopping :D

To be honest - i think the plastic 'finger' was an after-thought. :) I reckon the guy who designed it - used his 'boonga' instead. :D

sounds like a case of 'someone let the missus fill the car up'! Hope there's no lasting damage

IMO Kill Bill is so much of a black comedy that the finer details shouldn't be questioned. for example: 1. Blood that looks like water, rather than the thick gloopy stuff it really is 2. The Kung-fu scenes that feature manoeuvres that are quick-frankly impossible, but are most amusing :) .... I think too many expect films to feature the same laws of physics, etc as the 'real world' this is certainly something that needs to be ignored. just my 2p anyway :) Simon.

Air filter / exhaust / porting - all will increase the amount of air getting in - which in turn will create more torque - and as a consequence you'll get more horsepower. Basically anything that can get more air/fuel mix into the chamber will increase your torque. Tricky subject really - since the science behind it is mind boggling. Different engines will exhibit different torque curves - an NA Z will probably show more torque than a TT in the 750rpm - 1,200rpm - since the turbo can't produce any positive boost until after this (dependant on turbos of course), and the higher compression on the NA will be an advantage. If you wanted loads more torque low down - i.e. if you were trying to improve your 1/4 time - getting nitros inj. at low revs until the blowers really kick in will really help. This is just the tip of the iceburg really - different camshafts for example can really alter you torque curve. Si.

Myself and two others watched it tonight and thought it was excellent! Slight anomoly with the Z though - when U.T is talking down to 'you know who' (so I don't spoilt it for the rest) in the boot of the Z - you can tell its not the Z anymore - Z boots don't have hatchback-style overhangs.

the best bit about vertical-opening doors when some fecker parks way too close in the car park, and you know what it's like with our long doors - it's takes a skinney bugger to get in! With vertical - no problem!! Would I do it? If I had the money yes

lol - don't buy a Z!! On a more (un-Z related) serious note: http://www.benerridge.freeserve.co.uk/econ10.htm

http://www.g-force-motorsport.co.uk/dyno/dyno.htm Anyone in Aylesbury? Si.

http://www.mooter.com/ Provides the results in clusters of like-named documents Pretty cool really. Another few weeks and it may even replace google as my homepage. Si.

"But this kit and save money" the web page says: http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=Z32FL-TAILL&Category_Code=z32_nismo_fairlady-tail-lights However, its cheaper to order the three units seperately! Doh. (Courtesy have emailed to say the prices are correct however!)

Tires made of clingfilm?? There's nothing sharp on a firework is there?

Engine damage of this nature is usually caused by the following: 1. High compression resulting in pre-ignition 2. Bad ignition timing resulting in detonation 3. Lean Mix resulting in detonation Lets try to analyse these factors: Number 1 - Can be caused by an incorrect piston - can't be that I guess, so perhaps Exhaust valves aren't opening fully?? This would be leaving superheated gases in the chamber - a possibility. Number 2 - We can rule out because the other cylinders are ok. (The sixth chamber does get a bit hotter due to the coolant flow, but this wouldn't be enough to hole a piston. I would expect slight pitting of the piston crown on a highly tuned engine which is running very close to det on piston 6 but not a hole) Number 3 - Again we're isolated to one chamber here so its either an injector not squirting enough fuel in. Or its receiving more boost than the other chambers, which is highly unlikely. (Now, I'm no engine expert by any means so don't take the above as gospel. Hopefully somebody will correct me on the above if they know oherwise.) Other factors to consider are: - Incorrect sparkplug - putting the flame expansion in the wrong place would be undesirable, and could lead to an eroded piston crown, or head erosion. - Too much oil getting in the cylinder (I nearly overlooked this) - when oil mixes with petrol it burns a lot slower causing carbon deposits to build on the piston much quicker and thicker than normal. This when driving around normally wouldn't initially be detrimental to the operation of the engine, but the problem is two-fold: 1. These carbon deposits effectively lower the available space in the chamber causing higher compression (a contributory factor in pre-ignition). 2. When you come to put your foot down for any length of time - these carbon deposits will super heat and cause pre-ignition. The combination of these could over time destory the piston Anyway - none of this is gonna get your motor fixed, so apologies for the lengthy waffle.

128 pages - thats a lot of soap boxes! :cool: Still, good for him - its good to see the majority value their ethics.

How come you were just detting on one cylinder then? Partially blocked injector - creating a lean mix?

Mr Duff, I'm ashamed - clean up your rusty tools immediately! :rolleyes:

Didn't have time to look this morning at the CAS, but hopefully tomorrow - got out of bed really late this morning so just drove straight to work....and didn't do it, so perhaps my fiddling last night has temporarally stopped it. Jack:- Stuart?? LOL :) The fan I believe to be fine - since its not that old actually. Besides that wouldn't create such an immense power drop (like nother there), and the exhaust note - well... sounded like a high compression motorbike with a racing exhaust! Simmo:- ECU reads 55 - :-S Which isn't very helpfull really!! (I was really hoping for a code 11) Bilky:- I'm surprised my PTU is still alive to be honest! Especially after hearing about so made failing. Perhaps I'll take it apart and check all the solder joints - since its these that fail I believe. Perhaps the CAS suffers from the same problem too?? Cheers peeps

I wonder how many Duracell bunnies had to be culled to power this beauty: http://www.killacycle.com/

1300cc of combustion space - but because it doesn't waste loads of energy through the recipricol motion of a 4 stroke piston engine it produces loads of power for its size. http://auto.howstuffworks.com/rotary-engine.htm Damn good design IMO. RX7 engine has a 3-rotor engine I believe - so each must be about 433cc?

FYI really, could help someone with a bizarre C.A.S. problem: [14:30] - Finished lunch break - better get back to work [14:41] - 11 minute blast back to work along dual carriage way [14:41] - Pass shown to gatehouse security - go to pull away and... brrrRRRRRRRRRMMMMM ... tshhhhhhhhhhh - And I've got about 10 metres!! Hmmm - All of a sudden, the accelerator has become more of a volume control than a go-go pedal. So hobble around the corner at about 5mph but the car sounds likes its doing 50mph! Anyway, park the car cos I'm late back anyway, and decide to sort it out later.... [19:45] - Finish work. So out in the carpark, pop the bonnet and have a look - all appears fine. Start it up all appears fine. Drive around the carpark - fine. So a little perplexed, decide it'll be ok to drice home. Get almost all the way home and it starts doing it again! So this time decide to put my foot down further to see if it gets worse. Things got a lot louder - car sounded like the exhaust had been removed until the revs got about about 3000rpm, and car goes lurches like someone lit some hidden touch-paper to a rocket strapped under the car! Noise returns to normal and the seems ok, until the revs get back below 3000 again. (Even more perplexed now) [20:05] home. Pop the bonnet - still can't see anything odd, no boost pipes come loose, turbo actuators are operating fine - Hmm. So I start wiggling electrical connectors, as soon as i touch the already-firmly-fitted CAS sensor, the car drops dead. Cars starts again fine though. Doh... So looks like dodgy connector on the CAS, the connector is clean as whistle, no loose or corroded cables. Anyone experienced this before? Sounds almost similar to the PTR problem, in that once its hot a dodgy connection materialises. So going to remove it before work tomorrow and see whats up, perhaps I just need a new one! Anyone else seen this before?

I've had a C/F single piece prop for over a year now - and it's great. http://www.acpt.com/ http://www.acpt.com/driveshaft/driveshafts.html Cost about £1200 (after import tax and delivery) Simon.

Any good machine shop will be able to turn out the centres to the exact size you require. Probably cost about £50 a wheel though.

Hi Andy, I have an HKS filter - and am about to switch to another style since I'm most unhappy with the filtration. The pair of turbos I had fitted last year had the leading edges of the compressor wheels eroded by the larger particles that the filter permits. Not good. (Warren will disagree with the above - since he has an HKS and not experienced any problems). However, any filter where you can visibly see through the holes in the filter sponge has to be frowned upon in my opinion now. HTH

I believe Z's exist up to 1.2KHP with standard box and prop shaft. Clutch of course will need changing to an HKS triple plate (or similar) like mine :) Also, the rear diff is thought to be almost indestructible by many people.... Hope this helps

promoting PIMMS too - somethings not right...