WillyEd

On my 91 UK spec the relief valve in inside the aluminium 'thing' that the filter screws into. Could be that crud has accumulated behind the piston valve and is stopping the spring from compressing properly. I've attached a pic, hope it helps anyway Cheers Si.

This may not be of much help, but my UK spec has H3s for the dipped beam, and possibly H1's for the high beam. I think they can be used for jap imports, but may require an additional ground wire to be attached. (The pictures on that ebay page show an H4 bulb) Simon.

Could it be your cars gone into safety boost? turning the ignition off and off again will reset the ecu, and get you back on the proper maps, at least for a moment. Do an ECU diag... HTH Simon.

Make sure you've got the corrected map version of that image, since there was some duff figures put in the whole series of maps that were done http://www.tangentrix.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=71&sid=35d612aa40a7ed59a89b80b743323b07 An recent downloads should have the fixed values inside.

Would it be both arms though? Since they're both exhibiting the same problem. Si.

Oops, my mistake! (It early this morning after an 18 hour day at work!) I was getting confused with using an after market air filter on an NA, which will cause you to run richer, sorry Rich. The first point I mentioned still stands however.

My turn for asking for some advise on the Z now, (might even be the first time!) Anyway, the Z nearly didn't pass it MOT becuase of play in the rear rack. Having done a search for this, most previous threads mention the ball joints, but they're fine. Whats happening is, each arm can independantly move in and out of the rack by a few mm. (Picture car up on two poster lift, being held by the chassis, wheels hanging. If you grab ahold of each rear wheel you can see and feel the play - especially when the MOT guy is doing it) (only managed to get a 'pass' because I said, "Oh yeah, the rack just needs bleeding". Was a close one!) Any ideas what may have worn? I AM actually going to try bleeding the rack tomorrow if its not raining, to see if it really is the problem Cheers in advance Si.

Got enough oil in the box?

Hmm, the general twisted-ness of the whole car, probably negates the argument of it being a cut n' shut. Check out the bend in the steering wheel - part of driver would have done that! Still shocking!!

class :)

They're for getting the oil right up to the little end bearing, and for cooling the piston. Most engines have them - btw there's 3 holes - the middle ones points straight up the bore so there's no 'probably' about 'hitting' the piston. You will have some tiny paper thin gasket for these squirters in the rebuilt set. Si.

"...Whoooooop Whoooop Whoooooop..... ...munter alert!!.... ...please step away from the minger...." Kin ell, that would sober a brewery if it woke up with that in the morning!

Rich, Removing the cats will do 2 things: 1. give you more high rpm horses, and perhaps get you to the red line quicker however, 2. Loose part throttle driveability. You might also find, your care will run a tad richer without the cat (on an NA, less so on a TT afaik) so... your call really - if you're going to race your Z to race meetings etc, take em off and get a custom chip done, or its it your daily driver for pootling around town / driving to work everyday leave em on. My 2p spent Simon.

Perhaps some of the Z32 owners on here should book some time with his "Nissan Technician", and get him to look into all these detonation problems that have been cropping up lately.

...was walking past the magazines in Tescos at lunch time and 'Front' caught my eye. In fact had it been a three dimensional picture, it would have had my eyes out.... lol

Blimey thats nasty! (BTW Last time somebody posted a picture involving wrapping a car around a tree, a couple on here were under the impression the tree would have broken - LOL - are they gonna dispute this one too??)

I'm sure someone on here will burn you a ROM for the cost of a pint - £511 - daylight f'cking robbery!

Got mine plumbed into the sound system in the study, which I'm listening to atm. Had it for about 2 years now (12GB model which I got from the states). Been trying to find a colour LCD display for mine with a similar form-factor. Regards Simon.

Have to disagree m8. I'm running an unorthodox UD pulley and makes no difference. However........ I did have the con rods and crank all balanced at the same time. Which may iron out any unwelcome vibes you're getting. Si.

Step by step instructions: 1. Spray with paint 2. wait for paint to dry 3. admire your handy work :D or being serious: 1. Removal all plastic bits 2. rub down with 600-grit wet n' dry 3. wipe clean with thinner 4. spray with your choice of paint (preferably in 2 or 3 light coats) 5. Take the parts down to your local spray shop, and get them to top coat with a two-pac lacquer. 6. Pay the guy his £20 and then admire your new (and scratch resistant) placcy bits Si.

You could still run 295's (perhaps bigger) without sticking out beyond the arches, but you've need to buy rims with a smaller offset first. Si.

136 also.

..and some people wonder why 'friendly fire' occurs?

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