vodkashots

With 44 days till JAE, and a lot of work going on at wicksteed park in preparation, it took awhile but im finally able to post information about it. Wicksteed park has undergone a lot of renovation work this year, which meant until it was complete i didnt know if our plot had changed or not. im happy to say we are still in the same plot of land we have had for the past 3 years running now, which is on the left as you enter the JAE event. Ticket prices have changed, where they used to be £25 advanced ticket, its now £30, you can also come and set up on the Thursday (regardless who you are, it used to be support and club set up guys only) with the extended weekend camping pass (Thursday to Sunday) now priced at £35, day tickets are still available, and the same rule applies as previous years, Jap cars only for stands, all other country makes are resigned to the secured public carpark just outside the event. Tickets are available here http://www.japcarclub.org/index.php/ticket Again JAE will be hosting a list of activities for clubs to participate in Tug Of War Battles Dragon Boats Five-a-side football tournament Endurance competition Japanese Food and Drink eating competition Car Pull Bungee Challenge Inflatable Jousting Time Attack Go Karting Two man relay race For more info, please visit here http://www.japcarclub.org/index.php/club-information/events-and-activities As per usual the club will provide a BBQ for the cooking of food and supply a mix of foods to eat, please remember we are not offering to feed you for the weekend and its advisable to bring your own food and drink as well, Tea and coffee will be available Please get your names down for this event so we have an idea of numbers in attendance.

F*** this shit im done with it, i sold a perfectly working boost controller, it was then modified, and then all of a sudden im supposed to believe that its no longer working? OK not a problem, ill give a refund if its returned how i sent it, i asked for it in the condition it was sent, who else here would sell something and not expect it returned how it was sent before giving a FULL refund. Instead he expected a full refund. regardless if im a mod or not, id of still wanted the damn thing returned how it was sent before giving a FULL refund. regardless of how "petty" people want to think im being. Its not your item, it was mine, so i want it back how it went. anyway, make up your own damn minds. all i wanted was the item i sold, BACK THE SAME WAY IT LEFT. PS, who ever said we were arguing over bits of plastic, it was steel wrap braid in plastic, specific to the item in question with its own fittings for the solenoid. I already posted a picture in the other thread showing they were not something you can just buy off the shelf.

I have asked for its return in the same state it left, you seem to think i should accept it back in a different state, regardless if its "just vac lines" to you. You have a right to ask for a refund, i have the right to ask for its return in the state it left here. - - - Updated - - - Are you threatening me?

Said boost controller was sold fully working by me, posted in not only a bubble wrapped jiffy envelope, but also then placed in postal cardboard box and sent first class recorded, the original vac hoses are not just some pieces of silicon attached with a few cable ties, but were wound steel braid with a hard plastic covering, theses were attached to the solenoid via bolt up fittings, i got told by the buyer (silverline) that these had perished and that he needed to change them, after the deal was done and he was in possession of the boost controller. Now considering i removed the boost controller from my car my self, i know full well of the condition of the vac lines and "deteriorated" is not what id of called them, they were perfectly fine, a bit dirty but fine, the boost controller was only removed due to me wanting to fit my Greddy Profec B spec 2 that had more functions and complimented the interior of my dash better. It was fully working when it left the car, and was running 18psi through those vac lines before removal. Now to be told that he has changed something on it and it no longer works and requested a full refund. I do not go around buying things, Altering them and requesting a full refund. its a boost controller and vac lines are an integral part of the device. i requested for the unit to be returned how it was sent out and upon this id refund all monies in full. he seems to think this is a "get out clause", he is expecting me to accept back an item not in its original state when it left me, id like to test the device once it back in my hands, The original vac line was a plus of a selling point as it was less likely to fail than silicon hosing. As previously stated, it was working perfectly fine when it left mine, the buyer tried to tell me it had most likely taken a knock in the post, the boost controller would of taken more knocks over the course of its life in my zed with its stiffer suspension that it would have received in a jiffy bag, in a postal box sent through the post, unless it had been crushed at any point, so before the lynch mob want to rip into me, i did notice he mentioned nothing about me saying that i offered a full refund for the item if it comes back, how it left. I have asked on many occasion for this simple request. if he has binned the pipe work, then i can not see how that is my problem, it is his. May be he should of left it to one side instead of binning it so quickly. As you can see by the picture, the pipe work is not the usual silicon and id like it returned as it was, when it was sent out before a full refund.

easy way to check the fan, put the key in the ignition, turn to the on position with out starting the engine, and remove the yellow connector off the front water pipe (or in your case, the brown soaked 2 wire one) as it comes out of the engine, you should hear the fan turn on.

If Si has been buying his trim and other items from Nissan for a factory new look, then that 20k bill is very believable for a stock 300zx, Nissan do not sell cheap parts for our cars, especially for items other dealers can not supply.

first things first, dont drive it until you figure out whats going on, get on ebay and get your self this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Block-test-kit-for-petrol-and-diesel-engines-original-combustion-leak-tester-/181059430832?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item2a27fba9b0 block tester, when it arrives, make sure the water isnt brimming at the top of the rad, start the car with the rad cap removed, keep an eye on the engine temp, poor the blue liquid into the glass tube and put the pump on the top of it, stick it then into the rad top up, crimp the small over flow pipe and start hand pumping, it will draw air up through the glass tube and the liquid, if the liquid turns green then you have a blown head gasket. If all turns out ok, then its time to start trouble shooting, if your water pump is old, get a new one (around £100) and a new thermostat, and change them, id also get a after market water temp gauge installed as this will at least give you a temperature number, rather than a needle that doesn't start moving until the engine is pretty much over heating. Id check to make sure that the heater matrix isnt leaking behind the dash, check both foot wells for wet carpets / brown staining

The engine i have in the black zed is strong, im thinking of buying a bottom end and getting that one built while this other engine is still in the car, the one in the car at present isnt knocking or anything like that, im just down 2 cylinders due to fouled spark plugs and its smoking out the rear, tried to do a compression test on it, but the bloody compression tested ended up leaking so need to get another doh! miss the old girl already though

I think if i hadnt been driving around in the zed for so long, i might actually realise when it does kick in yo! but its just so sluggish and well slow, even my little boy who is only 4 turned around and said "its not very fast is it daddy" LOL i will give it one thing though, it lasted a week and 3 days on half a tank of fuel before needed a garage, something the zed wouldn't have done lol

I sent him a PM, so while waiting on his reply, thought id ask on here as well. really want my car back on the road, fed up of driving a honda around lol

i want to get everything together and get it all to jimmer, id like to supply him with everything he needs though so he only has to sort it out so i have no idea lol

think considering it will be just the bottom end, i might spill those before i end up getting the heads on. Ok next, on a serious note please guys. what else will i need. my car is currently sat out the back of my house costing me money to keep it there so need to get this done sooner rather than later.

oops sorry head wasn't with it, just noticed hahaha

Pretty sure i need main bearings lol although i suppose ill never spin a bearing if its not there, id like a new oil pump just so its new

well my car is playing silly buggers, but im pretty sure its bottom end related, either way, i want to build a bottom end as i have some pistons and rods sat waiting to go in, whats a list of parts im going to need for this. so far i have Weisco pistons Eagle rods. i know im going to need. main bearings oil pump Oil strainer rear crank seal front crank seal what else would i be looking at getting?

what you have circled in red is the VTC solenoid for the variable valve timing. On the other photos, you have a small water pipe coming off the main water channel that runs from your thermostat to the heater matrix behind the dash, looks like the weld has come away and so is leaking. Do you know if its the left hand or right hand water pipe (standing facing the engine from the front of the car) as one can be changed half way, the other needs the lower plenum removing which means cam-belt off, or see if you can get it welded. You could try Hard and fast, its a metal epoxy and sets hard as nails.

im going for around 550rwhp, have you had it fuel mapped?

For sale my HKS EVC 1 Electronic boost controller, Perfect working order when removed from my 300zx, easy to set up, easy to use, has high / low and volume (manual mode) buttons on it, has a LED boost light strip, all wires (not chopped), and all vac hose ready to be installed. £100, postage most likely around £5 as ill send it 1st class recorded. It was set up for low boost (14psi) and high boost (18psi) but this can be changed easy enough using the small turn dials on the rear of the unit.

I think facebook is playing a major roll, what you find or should i say, what ive found, is when i have a issue, ill get around 130 views on my thread before Jeff / z32bolt / Mark responds, usually covering the same ground ive covered here at home, i read it and take it in, and if suggestions are made that i hadnt thought of, ill go and tackle them and come back with feed back, then i sit and wait, 240 views an and usually only the same people will respond again IF they respond, I think it might get annoying for them being the only ones to reply, as much as it is for me hoping for a broader set of suggestions as to what the issue could be. With facebook, you have pretty much instant access to not only the minds of UK zed enthusiasts, but also those in the US, this gives a broader response and more idea's, to someone like me who likes to get hands on and fix my car (hate not being able to drive it), having to check my post and notice that no one has responded in 3 days, even though ive added new symptoms that have reared them selves hoping to narrow things down forces me to look else where for answers. Unfortunately this has had a knock on effect, we have a handful of knowledgeable people, i know some stuff but im still learning 6 years on, if they are not on the forum, then peoples technical questions go unanswered and they will move onto other mediums, most of the people knowledgeable in the z32 in the UK, do not frequent the forum as much. Ill answer questions where i can, but i can only give answers if i know them.

Blown one of these. 1. turbo 2. number 6 piston 3. piston rings on cylinder 6 Not sure yet. need to find out. Or I have very clogged PVC valves

Ok finally found out what the issue was, car is now smoking like Thomas the tank engine as he chuffs down the track, seem to have a naff turbo, cylinder 6 is also dropped due to the vast amounts of oil build up in the upper plenum, hardly any boost at all not that i was trying. smokes from idle, clears under normal driving, but smokes on boost (all 3 psi of it lol). guessing seized turbo. or the rings / piston has gone on cylinder 6. need to comp test the engine again. wondering if the comp test i did a few weeks back, was showing fine due to oil, but not enough to cause smoke.

Sent you a PM regarding the shell matey

If you were not so far away id have these off you, especially the front seats. :(

20 years tomorrow, F1 changed forever, the events of the 3rd round of the F1 calender in 1994 at the San Marino GP circuit in Imola, The weekend started well, until the first qualifying session on friday when Jordens, Rubens Barrichello hit a kerb at the Variante Bassa corner at 140mph, launching him into the air. He hit the top of the tyre barrier, and was knocked unconscious. His car rolled several times after landing before coming to rest upside down. This was just the start of the tragic events that were to follow. On Saturdays qualifying twenty minutes into the final session, Austrian driver Roland Ratzenberger failed to negotiate the Villeneuve curva in his Simtek, he subsequently hit the concrete barrier wall almost head-on and was critically injured. Ratzenberger, in his first season as a Formula One driver, had run over a kerb at the Acque Minerali chicane on his previous lap, the impact of which is believed to have damaged his front wing. Rather than return to the pit-lane, he continued on another lap. Travelling at 190mph his car suffered a front wing failure leaving him unable to control it. Having been flown to hospital from the on track medical centre, It was later announced that Ratzenberger had died as a result of his multiple injuries. His death was the first Formula One race weekend fatality since the 1982 Canadian Grand Prix when Riccardo Paletti was killed. Unfortunately his death would be over shadowed on the following day. The race, despite the tragic events of the following 2 days, went ahead. Aryton senna had qualified on pole position, ahead of championship leader Michael Schumacher. Gerhard Berger qualified in 3rd, and Senna's team-mate Damon Hill started from fourth position, At the start of the race, J.J. Lehto stalled his Benetton on the grid. Pedro Lamy, starting from further back on the grid, had his view of the stationary Benetton blocked by other cars and hit the back of Lehto's car. The incident caused the safety car to be deployed, with all the remaining drivers holding position behind it. At the drivers' briefing before the race, Senna, along with Gerhard Berger, had expressed concern that the safety car did not go fast enough to keep tyre temperatures high. Once the track was reported clear of debris, the safety car was withdrawn and the race restarted with a rolling start. On the second lap after the restart (Lap 6), Senna's car left the road at the Tamburello corner,cleared the run off area and hit the concrete wall, the resulting incident caused parts of the suspension to impact senna's helmet, After 10 minutes of track side treatment, he was air lifted to hospital, Senna succumbed to his injuries and as a result F1 changed forever. [video=youtube_share;IRlilIegHbo] R.I.P Roland Ratzenburger 1960 - 1994 Aryton Senna 1960 - 1994

Surely you would only get positive crank case pressure if you are getting large amounts of blow by through worn piston rings, i was running 18 psi, but with the cooler weather, it went to 21 then when it got really chilly, it was at 24psi, never had my dip stick pop out and thats with the normal PCV valves in their original location.