vodkashots

Its essentially a large vac leak, as its for crank case pressure, so horrible running and terrible idle if the valve is fubar and not closing, higher fuel consumption. and other things im sure someone else will say, oh and also oil leaking on to hot things, as for crank case, its just venting to atmosphere like it pretty much did before the invention of PCV valves and the Positive Crankcase Ventilation system was invented.

Its essentially a large vac leak, as its for crank case pressure, so horrible running and terrible idle if the valve is fubar and not closing, higher fuel consumption. and other things im sure someone else will say, oh and also oil leaking on to hot things, as for crank case, its just venting to atmosphere like it pretty much did before the invention of PCV valves and the Positive Crankcase Ventilation system was invented.

Strange question, are you sure the mark you put in place is actually where the mark should be? Also there is a coiled black wire on the ptu loom, try that for pick up as that was it's intended use.

Looks like if you ever finish work where you are, you have a nice market to slot your self into there bud, that is very impressive work i must say.

Jeff don't you also get the same symptoms with a start motor relay fault? Starter sticking on once the car is started, sometimes hesitant to start?

twin turbo, or non turbo? does it still have all the vac hose related items like PRVR's, AVI valves? I cant quite thinkg of any vac hoses that are hard to actually get to apart from the boost solenoids on the twin turbo that you have to remove the intake and turbo intercooler pipes for?

Update on this: Well, ive now checked all the spark plugs, checked all the Coil packs, checked all injector cables, stripped down everything over the weekend and renewed all vac hoses having deleted the PRVR's, AVI's and Carbon canister to simplify the system more, checked the turbo outlet hoses, one did need tightening, Drivers side that is usually hidden beneath all the loom and connectors on that side of the engine. removed the HKS boost controller and plumbed in a Greddy profec B spec II with all new vac hose, got rid of all the old vac hose and replaced for silicon vac hose. ECU was unplugged long enough to reset its self while doing all that. Really am running out of things to check on this. still have a audible burble to the rear exhaust, like a miss but not a miss, like the spark is there, but its not strong enough, but its in stages, 10 seconds of normal idle, then the revs drops as though its trying to stall for 10 seconds, then the revs pick up again and it idles normal, then drops again. Acceleration before boost is very very laggy, like something is trying to hold it back, it does boost fine now though and all the way to 21psi, but the initial pick up is terrible. Gave it a fresh oil filter and oil change, seems to have sorted out my noisy tappet i had on a cold start for some castrol GTX semi synthetic 10 - 40. Really am running out of ideas on this one. I suppose the next thing would be to start on the expensive stuff and try and rule out that. :/

I agree with Si on that one, looks totally stupid and even if its for show, still looks stupid.

Wrong car mate, thats for the z31 not z32

hahaha, never mind just checked the 300zx year, thats for the z31 that repair kit. but the cylinders are cheap enough on there. Jeff how do you check for a vac leak on the booster its self?

this? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nissan-300ZX-280ZX-720-200SX-New-Clutch-Master-Cylinder-Repair-Kit-SP5331-/310883039124?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item486212b794

aah, is there a repair for that? pretty sure that would be the thingy failing then inside the clutch master, someone mentioned that in the Aussie thread. - - - Updated - - - oh jeff posted while i was typing lol

Well, when i first got the car, the pot was empty, so i topped it up, give it a bleed and all was rosy and dandy, with how my car has been recently, i removed the cap to the clutch slave and low and behold, completely bone dry again, now i know i have never had a leak that has shown its self under the car / engine, there doesnt seem to be anything else out of place on the system, and having a read a thread on the aussy forum (that never got solved) i seem to be having the same issue, although, unlike them where they lose complete use of the clutch, i can still use mine, just the pot is empty and its rather well solid to use. So, quick one this, where the hell has it gone? and could this be a contributing factor (by some known and down rightly bizarre link) to my idling issues? lol Thinking at this point to just take the car off the road, strip it down and redo almost everything on it at this rate, been a year of happy motoring with it, and it now looks like this year is the year im going to be spending most of my time and cash sorting issues out.

Its your AVI's

So, borrowed a ECU, although it was mapped for boost jets only, car started up and ran fine until the temp came up, then i had a mental hunting idle. didnt check to see if any error codes as didnt want to run the car too long incase i caused damage to the engine, although it was on idle with a little blip of the throttle to see if the hunting idle would sort its self out. But still no wiser on this issue, with my ECU in, its like it will idle fine for say 10 seconds, then the revs will drop for say 10 seconds, then the idle will pick its self back up, then drop again, arrrggggghhH!, really wish something would just stop working so its easier to find the issue and sort it out. Sorry, should of said, car is acting like its got a major air leak. only question is, looked everywhere and still non the wiser on that one.

The comments to that video say "power steering pump is on its way out, changed mine, sound went away" and also "Oil pump"

Stupid thing was, i connected the timing light, laid it well away from the fan before starting the car, started the car, picked the timing light up, as i went to put the sensor into the number one coil pack area, the cabled must of slipped off the plenum, next thing you know, the sensor was gone out of my hand and on the floor, with the cable ripped from inside the timing light. tried to solder it back up, but the ferrite inside the sensor was all smashed, so it no longer works doh! One of those days, still have this odd idle, ive finally used most of the fuel i put in on the friday all this started and filled her up with some V-power, hoping it might of been bad fuel, but still no go, its just really odd.

Jeff, i tried checking the timing............ My fan ate the timing light lol doh!, didnt notice the cable dropped down as i was putting the sensor onto number 1 injector :/ haha yes i know, should of been paying more attention.

does show even though it ran with no oil plus with water in, its a strong engine. i was expecting it to seize. 30mins with no oil in the engine and could still crank it after?

Haha sorry about my reply earlier just realised you said fuel temp sensor not water temp

Click the icon below (arrowed lol) A small box will pop up, click Browse, locate the pic you want to upload from your PC, and then click upload, if the pick is large, just wait a bit, it will put a code in the chat window, dont keep clicking the upload button thinking nothing is happening, or you will end up uploading a ton of images, just click the once.

Something i want to do to mine, looks awesome that does, but think it would be better for me to find a rear subframe first, sort that one out, and then do the change, rather than have my car off the road for longer than needed.

No image, but if there is no temp sensor in place, whats in there? something must be stopping the rad water coming out?

never mind, try the link again, i was using the wrong one lol Would bad fuel do this? last time i filled up was Thursday at Texco (or what ever the garage is called), put £30 in the tank, Thursday after noon it all started