vodkashots

Jeff must hate me lol, always getting advice off him to fix my own car with out taking it to him, sorry bud but mucho grassy-ass for the advice, very much appreciated.

Still got this horrible running issue, seems to be worse from cold, would a turbo on the way cause this? im not smoking or anything and neither is the car, if im coming to a stop it bunny hops at low revs if my foot is off the clutch, still have this strange rotating rattly type sound at low revs with the clutch engaged as well, just a few things i missed when putting up the original post. :(

thanks matey, i shall make some hard plastic dowels that fit then, seems the most appropriate course of action for that.

Cant really do a search for this as its throwing up completely the wrong results every time i search, so time for an explanation, (seems that this year is the year for problems to arise on my zed) Hard to explain this so ill try my best, the steering wheel its self shifts left to right, only by around 1/4 an inch, ive narrowed it down to 2 metal bushes, either side of the main shaft, directly behind the interior panel under the steering wheel, seems as though my steering wheel is no longer sitting in them correctly, ive undone the bolts to try and see if i can adjust the fitments, but if the steering wheel is sitting where it can not move, i cant get the bushes to line up with studs to fit the bolts and tighten down on. the service manual mentions nothing of these bushes Problem area, highlighted in red, the bushes are allowing the wheel to shift left and right.

Thanks guys, and cheers bri, would love a steady idle at the moment lol

Or to put it in its correct context. "ITV, Channel 4, 5, Sky news, sky sports news, [insert any other relevant news out let here] would of raked in their share of the 660million viewers and there was no way we were going to be out done by the likes of them, we do not need an even bigger excuse of lack of ratings to further the argument about if the BBC licence fee is worth it."

Wet maf is totally different to the hesitation im suffering, if you get a wet maf while driving, its usually fine under normal load, its when you give it a bit of welly where the water is being draw through the filter and it hits the maf, then you get a sudden "buck" of lack of power. Still not sorted this, waiting on something to carry on my trouble shooting.

anyone have a spare known good one i can use to test it before buying one?

Id get that thermostat changed before anything else, put a brand new one in, they cost peanuts and worth it. then see if you still have overheating issues.

Not sure how that would help, as the hesitation is only slight and once the car is going and fully warm, you dont get hesitation, its mainly on idle that its doing strange stuff, but wouldnt hurt, ill see about getting it tonight as off out soon

its hard to say, its not really erratic, but it does it in stages, like its fine when the car first starts up, then as the temp comes up, it put put put put, for around 10 seconds, then its fine again, then put put put for around 10 seconds, then its fine again, hesitation feels like fuel being cut or its being held back by an elastic band for a split second, then it goes again its really doing my nut in, if you put the heating on, although its still doing it, its not doing it as bad, its like every 10 seconds or so the revs drop like the engine is trying to stall for 10 seconds, then its idling fine, then 10seconds later for 10 seconds its trying to die again.

the water pump will circulate the water around the engine, with the thermostat closed, the engine builds up temp, at the correct operating temperature (76.6c on stock thermostat) the thermostat opens, allowing flow through the radiator, it comes in at the top and out at the bottom as the water pump pulls the water through the radiator. I would bet your thermostat has failed, i had the same issue, it failed to open the correct distance when at temp. for the cost of them, you may as well just change it for a new one. this might be useful for you. http://z32.wikispaces.com/Cooling+System Block tester kit from ebay is around £40, You use it by placing liquid into a container that goes on your radiator fill hole, you then press a squeeze that sucks air from the radiator into the container, if the liquid inside turns from blue to green, then you have exhaust gasses getting into the system, but at the moment, given your info, im still thinking thermostat.

Id hazard a guess given that the radiator is stone cold, one of a few things, blocked radiator, blocked radiator lower hose, thermostat failed where it doesn't open fully. As i said, bring the car up to temp and check the lower radiator hose, see if its collapsing on its self

Have you done a block test to see if you have a blown head gasket? checked drivers and passenger side carpet in the foot well to see if you have a leaky heater matrix, brought the car up to temp and checked the lower rad hose to see if its compressing on its self? EDIT, with the engine not running, water isn't circulating as the water pump only runs when the engine is running, so the heater matrix goes cold, hence getting cold air with the engine off.

ok thanks bud. engine revs through the range fine, no knocking or anything, i do have a tapping noise that's not related to the tappets, but only when the car is in gear and driving? and only on low revs? clutch release bearing? not sure, something else to investigate, but to be honest i might just be hearing sounds that are already there and trying to relate things with my idle / hesitation issue.

Put a OEM one in, unless you like the cooler temps i suppose

well that's kind of a relief i suppose, how accurate is the test to see if you have a air leak via the manual, by clamping the PCV hoses jeff? although ive striped all the pipe work down, replaced all the vac hoses arrgggh this issue is doing my head in :(

62 degrees is a Nismo thermostat, im pretty sure i have one in mine, the car will still come up to temp at the same speed, the thermostat will just open sooner keeping the engine around 74 degree's with a after market radiator (slightly cooler than the temp the OEM one opens), engine temps under load will raise to 77, and on hot days will still reach around 80, which is what mine does, as im pretty sure i have a Nismo thermostat in my car as it idles at 74, under load its 77

can you have a spun bearing with out engine knock? im wondering if that's what's causing my idle issue, i have been through the service manual, doing the diagnostics as they suggest, compression is fine, timing is fine, injectors are fine, no air leaks, coil packs are fine, getting a spark, CAS is fine, PTU is fine, loom is fine, running out of things to check, just wondering if a spun bearing would cause idle issues as it grinds it self down on the crank. i dont have engine knock. but that might not arrive until a later date with a spun bearing.

Check the fuses again, for the horn, there is a relay and a fuse in the engine bay, id check those fuses too. Put the car in 1 instead of D, can you then change gear to 2 while driving? and have reverse? i had the same issue and it was a fuse, but id changed the gearbox before figuring that out (i needed to change engine at the same time anyway)

Prices set that high are to discourage purchase until the new stock arrives, instead of him having to relist the advert and incur more charges

Also once done, reset the ECU, clear the codes and see if you get any more after

This is copied from EvolutionM.net so is nothing to do with me, but i found this extremely helpful when setting up the boost controller, just remember, this is based off a Mitsubishi not a 300zx, as such a stock boost level to aim for, is not 19psi lol

So, had all the interior out, had a look for corroded connections, especially down by the fuel pump and around the ECU area, even though i had a leaky targa, everything still looks like new, noticed that the car is worse from cold with what feels like having an elastic band attached to the back of the car, you get power, then nothing for a split second, then power again, once the engine has warmed up, its just idle issue with sluggish pull off, really pulling my hair out over this one as running out of things to check, going to check my throttle bodies and see if they are balanced correctly once i dig out Jeff's thread on it, something has to be causing this, its getting to the point im hoping what ever it is, fails so i can at least say "aaah"

So, had all the interior out, had a look for corroded connections, especially down by the fuel pump and around the ECU area, even though i had a leaky targa, everything still looks like new, noticed that the car is worse from cold with what feels like having an elastic band attached to the back of the car, you get power, then nothing for a split second, then power again, once the engine has warmed up, its just idle issue with sluggish pull off, really pulling my hair out over this one as running out of things to check, going to check my throttle bodies and see if they are balanced correctly once i dig out Jeff's thread on it, something has to be causing this, its getting to the point im hoping what ever it is, fails so i can at least say "aaah"