vodkashots

yep :ohmy:

:lol:

another Zeeeee? is that some prototype model? anyway get some pictures up lad, you know how it works around here lol

I'm impressed, I've been putting off doing mine as I'm still not sure where to get some rubber tubing from to replace any if i ruin them getting it off. but as my car now has a water leak i may as well do this job, might even find where I'm getting a water leak from at the rear of the engine. Where did you get your replacement pipes? and what sizes?

I hate fixing one problem and another popping up instantly that has no relation to what you just fixed...

Im running Bridgestone potenzas on the rears at 255/40/17 and trust me, it did spin. doesn't help as i don't have a spoiler on the back, but i doubt that would make a blind bit of difference to down force at that speed anyway lol

Sounds interesting lol how doest that work then?

You wont have to empty the entire system, all you need is just enough that when the sensors finally let go and start to come out. you don't get it pouring through the holes you just created lol

You make it sound complicated lol, Anyway, do you have a breaker bar? very handy things to have in your arsenal, though you might have to butcher the top of the old sensors to get a socket over the end unless of cause you have some extra long sockets. then put a socked the correct size on a extension and put the breaker bar on top of that. then give it a bit of a turn, with a breaker bar you should be able to get it moving. although you have just done a coolant change :blink: so soon as you start undoing them your going to start emptying that coolant where those sensors were.

when the diaphragm fails in the actuator it holds the waist gate open so you don't get boost. had the same happen to a turbo diesel i had. and just because they don't tend to fail, doesn't mean it wont.

how do you mean stuck? as in wont undo? or stuck as in, you have managed to unscrew them but they wont shift? also, have you drained the water in rad? or your going to make quite a mess when they do come out lol And why would you ruin the plenum? these sensors are on the front top radiator pipe.

grats, £25 is better than nothing :D

Its pushing around 360 - 370 BHP with the mods. - Greddy ecu. - boost jets giving 14psi - Powerflow decats connected to Mongoose exhaust system - HKS Air filter. - lowered all around by 2inches. and the ride is very stiff, so this could of had something to do with it. And please note, i didn't say "i snaked up the road at 70", i said it wheel span in 5th from 60. :dots:, i also stated that the weather was light drizzle, which also plays a factor.

If you drive it home make sure you don't boost. the actuators can be changed independently of the turbos but its a fiddly job. and they are fed separately iirc.

Only thing i can think off is after removing the rad cap, it looks rather rusty water, also noticed that it must of over heated before in the past as there is rusty water splash marks down the side of the engine bay on the side the radiator cap is. i have a feeling that when i moved the top radiator hose out of the way, Ive dislodged some crap in the pipe and its now stopping the water pump causing more pressure around that area, thus causing the leak. Ooh the fun of removing the lower crank sprocket. Looks like I'm going to be changing the timing belt. tensioners, water pump, aux belts while I'm there, may as well do that while I've got everything apart anyway.

Well, spent most of the morning down at the Zed fixing a power steering pipe to stop it leaking. after making sure everything was where it was supposed to be and everything was tightened up, i topped up the power steering fluid and started the engine. gave the wheel a few turns on full lock to make sure the air was out of it. turned the engine off. and now i have a water leak from from the water pump area behind the viscous fan? Also have a small leak dripping down from the rear of the engine onto the oil sump? I'm confused i never went anywhere near the water pump or the rear of the engine? So looks like I'm going to have to give it a new water pump, is there any special precautions about changing one, i did try ringing JeffTT but he isn't taking calls at the moment. Gutted, car is off the road after just 2 weeks of owning it due to a water leak :(

well it wasn't me that one is in the garage lol

Its only 3rd party, and unless the car is in someone else's name your not covered.

Aways check the easy things first. never jump to assumptions. first port of call, vacuum hoses. To check if its a seized turbo can be a little bit difficult. take the exhaust off at the elbow, remove the elbow and you should be able to spin the turbine. if you feel it grating or it just doesn't move. its more than likely seized. But agree with Wales on this one. i wouldn't drive it with a seized turbo. but check your vacuum hoses first, might just be as simple as replacing a bit of tubing, or popping it back on.

Ones on the back of the engine going to the matrix are a bit of a b, to get too, you will need to create the space by removing the wiring harness from the drivers side back along the fire wall, get as much out of the way as possible and you should get better access. If its the turbo pipe on the passenger side, this too can be reached but again its a balls ache, remove the battery to get better access, also jeffTT has a post about water by pass, have a look it will show the location of the water pipes that could possibly of come off / split.

Well with out being near the car, i wouldn't of known about the faulty earth return lol Also grats on passing the 2k post mark (might even be the second time lol) but grats anyway :D

Are you on sorry its changed now, its not MSN its windows live messenger lol? Also, how the hell is someone still managing to PM me, since all this None PMing has started up, ive gone from 0 unread messages to 2

turbo water feed pipe, or could be one of the pipes going to the matrix. have a look with a torch.

brb packing my bags...

Another thing i hate. Royal mail.