vodkashots

Your ok bud, im sure there are better videos out there though to show what you mean lol I have seen that video before, but not everyone wants to watch a man die due to his own stupidity.

sorry twinturbo, thats a bit inappropriate for the club matey. so i have removed the link.

Slight use, some scuff marks, can be seen modeled on the 300zx in this photo.

Just remember it is an offence (well in the UK) to knowingly sell a car with an adjusted odometer with out making the new owner aware. Which is strange as there isn't a law governing changing the clocks with ones that are lower or higher mileage?

If your doing plenum removal, you may as well do a water by pass while your there, then you dont have to worry about putting so many awkward to get to pipes back together

Yep, defo a 300zx

IF i can get my car back on the road and working, count me in, would really be nice to actually get to a meet this year under its own steam lol

Just watching bbc 3, a comedy show called the pranker on BBC 3, the first scene the guy goes into a garden center and starts cooking sausages on the BBQ saying hes gotta try it before he buys it. When he is being kicked out, in the garden center carpark is a apple green 300zx with the viper wings on it lol Cant get it up on bbc iplayer at the moment as its streaming the show live.

not sure about the ipad 2, but my iphone is running untethered on 4.3.3 at the moment. greenpois0n was supposed to be releasing a untethered jailbreak for ipad 2 / iphone 3gs/4

always worth doing mate, just to break away from the constraints that apply impose.

last i knew, jail brakers were waiting for the ipad2 jailbreak to come out, what OS are you running? Could give redsn0w a look, might have updated it to jailbreak the ipad2

thought stretched tyres were to make you lose grip, thats why they are big in the drift scene. with no side wall movement to help they have a lower grip tolerance range

ill get you the photos of the panels i need today matey. just waiting on a welder at the moment so i can start learning :D

it would buff right out :lol:

that would be a really good option if it wasnt for the fact the shell with no rot has bad front end damage.

they didnt mention time they said as you have quoted to me, that says you get more spool. :tt2:

you will be removing the elbow, i have the japspeed set of these on mine, coupled to the japspeed decat pipes. They can be fitted with the engine in the car, but then if you face the same problem ive had (top bolts snapping) its going to be a pain in the ass to fix the problem like ive found, an i have the engine currently out of the car that the bolts snapped on. The other thing to be aware of, IF they are the same size as the japspeed ones, then you will need the correct decats to fit, so you can put a cat back system on the car.

yep seen that before, but still wtf. some people really shouldnt be let near cars. :lol:

i fancy a swb zed, but it would have to be the vert

just need to know what wattage mig welder would be best to use on the 300zx.

Also, if they list after market parts, make sure they come with them parts. check bodywork, especially under the sills and under the drivers and passenger side sill area. Dont trust the mileage unless its backed up with full service history with stamps, if its a import check on the cambelt covers, there will be a sticker saying what date and mileage the cambelt was changed, check this off against what the advertised mileage is. It would also depend how much your willing to spend, but take it for a drive and make sure it comes up to temp (needle around the half way mark on the gauge) and stays there, make sure there is no smoking at idle (unless its condensation from the exhaust but a good 30min drive should clear that) If its a twin turbo, give it a little bit (not too much) and make sure the boost gauge goes past 7psi which is safety boost. and would indicate a problem. Stock boost is 9psi under normal boosting. rev it past 2500 and hear for any knocking or banging, hold it there for around 5 seconds, then hold it at 3500, if you cant achieve 3500 revs, its most likely faulty MAF but again could indicate more problems. Check the carpets for wet patches, it could indicate if the roof leaks or not on a T-Top. there are lots to check for on these cars to be honest. im not trying to put you off in anyway, but some sellers dont exactly tell the truth about these cars when it comes to selling them.

Doesn't matter, always wanted to learn to weld, and now im getting the chance too. :D Going to practice though before i even get the thing near my car. will start with tack welds first and then do weld lines in stages to reduce panel warp.

You could do, but its still going to involve taking the dial face off to get to the screws holding the clear plastic part off to get to the screws holding the boost gauge in place, other wise its going to be one fiddly job.

resetting up the rev gauge is easy if you knock it out slightly, you have to get the needle sitting on the end mark when at rest if that makes sense. You may have to lift the needle over the needle stop to do it, you will feel the resistance, just do it gently and see where the needle sits.

Right, ive taken my old jap clocks apart, and also removed the needle to find out what problem your going to have. Now with the unit removed from the dash cluster The only real problem is, the needle housing is enclosed, so not much use there. Its soldered on to the PCB in 4 places and also held in place by the 4 copper screw mounts so replacing the unit is going to be a pain in the ass by the looks of that, unless you get a new needle PCB with the needle already in place. When the needle is removed you can clearly see the splines in the needle shaft This connects inside the unit. problem being is, once removed it is free of the housing that in closes the splines onto the plastic holder at the bottom. Now my perfectly good rev counter needle (didn't touch) if it works the same as the speed needle is quite floppy with very little resistance. Only problem I've found so far, with placing the needle back in, is that there now seems to be movement in the vertical plane of the needle, so even when bringing the needle back out slightly it eventually works its way back into the unit thus stopping it moving. My only thought on repair would be to either put a small paper washer inbetween the unit housing and the needle and hope it doesnt interfere with the workings. or strip the unit down completely and see if you can get to the rear of the needle to glue it back into place, I wouldn't recommend putting glue on the splines and pushing the needle back through the hole as it would just get stuck half way down before you even got the needle seated right, even then im sure you would end up gluing the needle mech lower down thus ruining the speed o completely, Only real advice would be to see if anyone has a spare set of clocks they are dismantling and installing a new needle PCB, biggest problem though would be getting the dial face off with out taking the needle off in the first place to get to the screws. Not much use i know, but doesnt look like a very servicable part to me.