Medallion Man

just fyi... i had a similar issue with hesitation under load and when cold. i changed almost everything (small fortune) and it turned out to be the timing was wrong.. oh well lesson learnt, didn't bother checking because I couldn't believe that it would be wrong!! anyway... good luck. :)

LOL.. and yes that too... as was mentioned at the beginning of this ....

OK, what I would do is check all connectors again particularly the CAS & PTU, check the connector to the ECU... disconnect the battery first if you are going to take it off and reposition it. also you say that the timing belt was done, what was the timing set to? if you want to check you have to use a timing light. it should be set to 15 degrees (I believe for a TT, not sure about an NA) but you could adjust it to see if it improves.

Ah... pay the money for membership and you will be able to...lol.. :)

I think they will beat France...

LOL...i think it was sarcasm... most people couldn't remember if they did it a week ago.... but I think the original comment had a touch of sarcasm to it anyway... anyway... it's really not important... :)

LOL.. yeah, a kid (about 8) said (tying to impress me).... "Mate, your car is F&$£&ing lush!!!!"

Agreed, I also use autobulbsdirect, always had good service....

Mmmm, I'm not 100% on this but as far as I know the hid's don't like getting flashed... so a bad idea if you do that... also the beam pattern isn't right as the mains don't have a projector lens.. again... one way or another on the MOT depending on who is doing it, also cops might not like it... I don't have any recommendation for bulbs...

Mate... jealousy is an evil thing... and they are peer pressuring her into not liking your car... tell her that if they are truly her friends they won't give a sh1t what you prod her off or pick her up in!!!! and that there is nothing wrong with the recognition hey are giving you.... My sig name comes from a mate at work that started calling me it when I bought my first MK3 Supra... and it stuck... he stopped calling me it almost immediately when he realised that it didn't wind me up.. in fact I was proud of it..LOL.... Like i said jealous TW$Ts.... I suppose they'll be telling her what to wear and eat next!!! :D

most of them need it... search on google Images... 300zx strut: and from Paul's Vert..

you should replace them with braided lines and there is a little nub on the plenum (where they bolt on to) you should cut that off....

LOL... is says in the add... PLEASE NOTE: The Image Is For Illustration Purposes Only, You Will Be Sent The Correct Hose Kit For Your Application. I'd ring or message them...

doesn't look right to me.... lol.. which ones are they?...

OK... but what about the other settings... and it's also possible there is something wrong with your temp sender unit.. unless you have some fantastic cooling system...:) did you do the timing with timing light?

yes... if it's an auto that is OK but you really need to check the timing with a light!!! and the TPS and AAC are still wrong.... this was similar to mine and it was the timing that was causing it. Conzult showed 15 TDC but when I put a light ion it it was at Zero. it seems that the ecu compensates.... well thats what it looked like to me ...

have you tried using Photobucket or another service? and like vijay said check your firewall to make sure silverlight isn't blocked. do you have another pc you could test with.

you need to read what Jeff said!!!! Starting with the running temp, any kind of adjustment needs to be done at full running temp which is 80c your is close so you should be ok but would be aware that if there is any suggestion of cool running ( thermostat issue) that value could change on the road and drop you into safety boost. Tps value is at the top of the scale, and although the tps setting is more important with auto`s its good to get it right and 0.46 is a nicer setting, however before adjusting check the throttle balance first as if this needs changing it will effect the final figure. Engine speed looks a tad low, northing major but suggests the base idle need raising slightly. 850rpm is about right Auxillary air valve opening should be 15% or as close to it as possible, the slightly raised figure of 20% suggests the base idle needs raising slightly, this is born out by the low rpm above also. Normal base timing is 15 deg btdc, 25 deg btdc is a common setting when the gearbox neutral switch has failed or not been connected ( auto to man conversion ) no issue but be aware when checking timing with a strobe you must apply the 25deg setting not 15 deg. Is your's an auto to manual conversion with the auto ecu still in use?

you can't tell the true timing set up from the software (well mine was set to Zero but was reading 15 on conzult). you have to use a timing light. and yes the timing will change as you drive... the ecu controls it... V is for variable..lol...

Have you checked the the timing? it may have been set wrong and all the other things changed to make the car run... now that you've moved them to what they should be the CAS might have the wrong setting for it to work.... if you know what I mean...

how did you check for air/vac leaks and did you find any?

cheers, I'll mention it to him... :)

Oh, poo, I'll be working... LOL... pity... Oh well next time....

about 130 mile for you....

may help... http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=72416&referrerid=16305