Medallion Man

front or back?

I agree with vods... I also think if the water pump is not working, it will cause water to stay in the block too long and overheat.. also causing the water to boil/steam... strangely enough the block test might be the easiest thing to do... Oh, and not slagging off your mechanic but you're better off getting someone (reputable) who is familial with Zeds to do it. good luck.

exactly.... time for a new one ... the risk isn't worth taking.... unless you don't mind a rebuild... and if you do, you can use mine.. LOL...

Hey.. no sorry mate... but the wanted part should be in the "Zed related parts" section... :)

Leather Steering wheel in great condition, only a few light marks, centre section has all clips, no damage. £60 delivered.

I think you'd have to take the paper work to a solicitor so that they could confirm exactly where you stand. Since I had a similar thing happen to me (by way of buying a car that wasn't as the owner thought), unfortunately for me the culprits had stop trading... So I guess it needs to very clear in the add & receipt that they have agreed and charged you for something different to what they have delivered. best of luck..

good question... but it's my belief that you pay the "whatever" pounds to advertise and that's it! (whether you sell or not). if it was an auction you'd be up for a cut of the price. I'm sure it's in the ebay info... and I vaguely remember reading it...

Ohh... might me time to buy my car and use the engine... :) (I got to try.. lol)

hand made... £6 posted.. this plate is made from 4mm (red) Perspex and has black vinyl over it. It has two small holes that I made for the alarm light and button. The second piece is cut to size with no holes (but no black vinyl). Comes with screws and clips to make installation easier. I made this because I couldn’t find anything to do the job. how it looks.. this pic shows how its held in place with the clips and how they attach. Two small drill holes are required in the metal frame, easy to remove and do. not fussed if I don't sell it.. just thought someone could use it.

*** SOLD **** A set of top fixings in very good condition including the strut rubber boots (no cracks) and a second set of fixings (bit tatty) thrown in. Also included, two strut bolts and one only spring cover.. £15 delivered.

Sold...

yeah, usual easy things first.. 1 - check all connectors for corrosion and damage.. MAF, CAS, TPS, PTU, ECU, coils, injectors .. etc.. 2 - do the 6P's http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/technical/view/922678/The-6-Ps-Proper-Preparation-Prevents-Piss-Poor-Performancegt.html 3 - it could also be fuel related... check for leaks around the plenum.... then filter, fuel ecu and pump.. If still not resolved you need to take it to someone who knows Zeds.. :)

D1 SPEC Threaded Universal Carbon / Aluminium - Gear Knob Rod Shape - Black Drift Style (with grub screws a well). Good condition, few small marks. £10 delivered

**** SOLD ***** MOMO Italy F 16 Black Leather With Chrome Gear Knob Great condition.. flat screws instead of allen key grub screws .. £10 Delivered

Great condition, no broken bits, cracks or scratches . £7 posted

*** SOLD ***** £8 delivered. These are £6 each from Zcentre plus vat & delivery.

I would say that noting is impossible... just unlikely. I guess I'd be doing a full check of everything section by section... checking connectors for corrosion or pins pushed out.. and cables for damage. PTU, CAS, TPS, ECU.. etc.. good luck.

who did the belt? TPS, Idle control valve and CAS checks? I don't think conzult would show.. also if the belt was one cog off on one side you could get this.. (just my novice thoughts :))

good advise... also see this: http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/technical/view/922678/The-6-Ps-Proper-Preparation-Prevents-Piss-Poor-Performancegt.html

Front indicators, clear conversion and mod for larger SMIC fitment, £40 posted. (with sidelight fitment as well, but I also have a set with just the one bulb opening) I modified these as a solution to the lager side mounted intercoolers rubbing on the indicator wires and finally causing a short, These solve this problem and give a clear indicator look as well (but still in keeping with the look of the car). If you have large after market intercoolers its worth checking they aren't causing this problem. The units have been pulled apart and the amber lenses removed. The bulb holder has been cut off, a new hole has been made on the other side of the unit, the section cut out has been heat welded over the old bulb location and the bulb holder has been heat welded in the new location. The inside has been re-sprayed silver. Sealant made good, evenly distributed around join area and units put back together. (I had these on my car for over a year, no leaks or issues) You’ll need a set of these to keep the clear look (rather than yellow bulbs). http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/160839901182?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT also, pics of the single bulb ones....

the simple answer to that is I don't know... I assume you are asking because your car is an auto... and I also assume when the idle says 2000 the car is still idling normally (i.e under 1000). I don't think the car behaves in relation to what the clocks say, rather on the signals sent to them.. but liker I said, I don't actually know. Hope full someone with that information will come forward.. :)

so assuming the car is also a 1 there is either a connection issue or the clocks are broken. where did you get them?

issue could be a series one for a series two.. the connecters are not only sideways instead of upright but the wiring is different.. or it could just be bad connections.. they are best case scenarios :)..

Originally a 1991 tt auto but nearly all mechanical components changed for newer... its worth the money for the engine, box & shaft alone. Car Taxed to 1st Oct and MOT’d till 6th June 15. I just can’t bring myself to keep going, unfortunately (to my regret) I didn’t replace the turbos at rebuild. As far as I’m concerned the body needs a lot of work to get it up to anything other than shed. The current engine was re-built at Zedworld in 2012. This engine is capable of well over 600bhp… Engine bought as a short block (USA import, build for racing): Wiseco forged pistons (88mm) Forged Eagle rods. Balanced main shaft, block was machined, honed & cleaned. New OEM bearings, crank, oil pump, oil pan and rear main seal (June 2012) Also: Cometic metal head gaskets. Nismo 555 injectors PTU (brand new for USA 2011) New water pump (2012) New cambelt (Nov 2012 - Zedworld) full Unorthodox lightened racing pulley set. JWT 530bb turbos (blowing oil, seals gone) Chipped ecu Greddy PRofec e-01 boost controller Jap speed decat pipes Custom stainless exhaust HKS twin dump-valves with Y pipes. induction hard pipe kit - silicone (green) Godspeed side mount intercoolers New wiring harness (2008) Alloy hi-flow radiator K & N cone air filter (cleanable) 5 speed manual gearbox (out of a 1994) 6 puck competition clutch. lightened balanced flywheel. Single piece prop shaft (Zedworld) R33 front disks and callipers Alloy hubcentric spacers 18" alloy wheels (need attention) Whiteline anti roll bar Hicas eliminator system - (Conceptua - Bycas in green) EGR bypass (removal) Water plenum bypass Cruise control deleted Clifford concept 650 alarm system Greddy front bumper Viper rear spoiler 99 spec front light inserts with HIDs Rear fogs integrated into rear center light section (all LED). clear front & read side repeaters (yellow leds) Dash 3 gauge pod (with Tim gauges, all led) yes I know Tim is crap but they look retro.. if you’re interested I’m open to offers. I’ve just been offered £2k by a guy on ebay but I’d be gutted to let it go for that… If there was any way I could afford to keep it (even for a track car) I would… more info available if interested.

:)