Mark W

When I was at school it was my ideal car- looked great, went fast, and it still does. I actually forgot about it completely for about 10 years, then had a minor crisis during which I had a Vision of the Zed! Bought one within a month, and not looked back! It would be great to go back in time to when they were new and I lusted after one and tell myself that I'd own one! I'd probably have wet myself, at which point Future Me would have slapped crappy Young Me around a bit, given a Wedgy and gone down the pub coz beer was much cheaper then. :duffer:

Slight change of tack, but I was thinking about Lotus 7 stylee motors today, and I reckon my fave option would be to stick in a tuned S14 lump. Potentially more power for less weight. Ford, Vauxhall and Rover enignes seem to be the choice... presumably due to price.

Just to update this thread... My rough running problem came back with a vengance having cleaned up the connectors! (see here for an update on that too). But strangely, the last time the light came on was just after my initial connector clean. Since then it's been nice and un-illuminated, except when first turning the key so I know the bulb's strill working! ;) So I'll park this for now...

Had an interesting discovery at the weekend, thanks to another problem! Had cat overheat during the Xmas break (see this) Now up until this point, the rough running seemed to have largely gone away, but in order to stop the cat overheat, I pulled as many connectors I could find and gave them a clean. Hey Presto!!! The rough running came back! :headvswal One thing I noticed while cleaning the connectors was the poor condition of the injector connectors- some of the contacts were bend so badly I'm not surprised I was running rough. So- I made a couple of jumper cables and inserted them between the worst connector and its injector, in such a way that it was getting the best connection possible. And wahoo! Smooth as the baby's proverbial bottom! Not a long term solution of course- I need some new injector connectors to replace the old ones, but it looks like I *might* have finally got to the bottom of it! Oh I can't wait to alter my signature... Mark :nana2:

So it seems like a good controller to go for- Cheers for the help chaps! :nana2: Mark

I'm fed up with having to climb down the back of the sofa to retrive one of the 5 remotes, only to find it wasn't down there at all, it had fallen behind the blah blah, etc. :headvswal I keep seeing the Kameleon one (see here http://www.kelkoo.co.uk/sitesearch/go.jsp?offerId=449401100138013uk449401-Firebox-Kameleon+Remote+Control&orw ) but are there any better ones? And with these touch-sensitive screen things like the Kameleon, what's the reliability like?? Mark

Responses here are looking a bit thin on the ground! What's the meet format? (Zeds / Jap cars / etc) Anyone else from here going?! Mark

Or... come up with some kind of wireless video arrangement strapped to the car!

In that case I claim my first successful diagnosis of somebody else's problem! :D :dance: :nana2: :dance: :nana2: :dance:

Congrats matey!

Limited mileage? Like about 1 mile a year! :rofl: :D

I'm pretty sure that the speedo is NOT tested as part of the MOT. I presume it's illegal not to have one, it just doesn't matter what it reads in... Mine certainly passed an MOT in km/h.

I can't wait to move house! :dance: My parents have boxes full of all my old track and cars, but I just have no room in my current shoebox to play with it! Scalextric rocks!

I think it's fairly normal, that. :D Mine are stock at the moment, so I'm not an expert, but things to consider are getting braided brake lines, and upgrading to Skyline brakes (R33?). I think quite a few people here have gone for Bremos, but I presume that's a more expensive route. Can't halp with prices I'm afraid, but give it 30 mins or so and someone will!

You can convert a J-spec cluster fairly easily by replacing a resistor on the speedo circuit board- that's what I've done to mine. But if you can find a set of UK clocks that'll be the easiest and most elegant solution. Have you taken your clocks out to see if it's just a poor connection? Mark

Cheers Andy- I'l check out the FPR. One thing I DO know is that I have a small leak from my clutch servo. I don't suppose that's close enough (system-wise) to the FPR to affect it? Mark

This may be a stupid question, but how bad is it to drive with the cats overheating? Presumably it's not good for the cats themselves, but do you get to a point where you set fire to the car?!!!

Well I've had a look at what the 60k mile/100k km service checks (used this) and I can only see a few things that could contribute: 1) Crankcase ventilation 2) Air intake valve (Presumably AIV, although being pedantic I thought the I stood for Induction) 3) CO content cat (what exactly does this mean too???!) So... I'd appreciate it if someone in the know could tell me what 1 and 3 mean! And also if they could give me my symptoms. Failing that... anyone got any other pointers? Mark

D'oh! I can't make that weekend- typical, that's the last 2 meets I've had to miss :cry:

Vijay- yep, first thing I did, even though I'd put in a series 2 about 3 months ago. Nick- fair point- I know that the chap who imported it replaced all the belts, but I should see what else is done at 60k and check those out too... And I can't make the meet you're proposing :( Dammit... I'd have deffo been up for it otherwise.

Just gone over 101000km. So 63000 in real money :D Yeah, I'd like to get rid of them too- you can't beat that de-cat sound! That'll have to wait for a bit though... :( However, I've still obviously got a fuelling problem which would still be there with no cats, it'd just stop the warning light from coming on. I wonder, in this instance, if you had no cats whether you'd be getting flames out the back?! Cool!

D'oh! I've got hot felines too. :cry: On the basis that it might be different to BlackMagic's problem, I thought I'd put it in a new thread... Anyway, I've gone through the previous conversations on this, which seem to be based on dodgy connections. So I spent this afternoon cleaning every connector I could find (and get to). Generally they all seemed ok anyway, but the ones in worst condition were the injector connectors, but I presume that would lead to under fuelling, not overfuelling. So that turned out not to cure it. :( The other things of note are that firstly, it's not running rough at all. In fact it's running the smoothest since I got it! So I presume that throws the no-spark theory out the window. Secondly, it's idling high- with the climate control switched off it's idling at 1000rpm. So... from that, is there anything that people can suggest to look into next? Help would be very much appreciated! :) Mark

Nice one matey!

I agree with takemetothepub- it's ultimately your call, though it's a big decision. I can understand your situation though- my girlfriend's doing the same thing and the added stress is having undesired side-effects. However, her employer won't let her progress in her job without a degree, so she doesn't really have a choice! Good luck... Mark

Check out the wiring diagram, you can get to it on Andy P's site but it's spread out over 4 pages. In fact I'll put in the link... http://www.300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=diag&dir=&config=&refresh=&direction=forward&scale=0&cycle=off&slide=4&design=default&total=4 Best to check it yourself, but yes, you only need power and earth; I'm not quite sure what fuse rating it has- it's not one from the driver's footwell, and in the diagram it implies it might have a fusable link. Anyone else...?! :confused: