Mark W

Any skiers in the club?! Just got back from a fab break in St Gervais, next valley over from Megeve. Gave snow blades a go for the first time- they're bloody fantastic! Much more nippy than skis, and great for popping off-piste between the trees (not that I'm particularly good anyway...) Gonna give boarding a go sometime, but I'm a bit apprehensive as everyone says you spend a lot of time falling over when you're learning, and I've got a dodgy shoulder. Resort was good for skiing, but a bit naff for nightlife- everywhere shuts up at 10pm! Spent most of the evenings in the hotel bar or over the road at the nearest real bar getting beaten something chronic at table footie. :( Mark

It's probably not this but thought I'd mention it anyway- similar thing happened to me and the root cause turned out to be the rear crank seal spraying oil onto the clutch plate. Apparently the clutch itself wasn't too badly contaminated, but I upgraded to an RPS Sport anyway...

I've got a belkin Bluetooth USB thingy and a Belkin multiple-flash mem reader and both work stonkingly fine. Funny things can happen with bluetooth, usually through manufacturers not supporting all protocols so that could be the cause of your bluetooth blues. Personally I find Nokia and Motorola don't work with everything, but Sony-Ericsson stuff does. Have you got other manufacturers stuff working? If you have, maybe you're just unlucky! Or it could be your firewall blocking anything remotely network in appearance? Hope you get to the bottom of it all! Mark

I always use CDex: http://cdexos.sourceforge.net/ Dead easy, does loads of compression formats, & free.

Obviously it depends on how serious the damage is, but in principal I'm with the "fix it" vote! Mark

:rofl: PMSL Spade?! Oh I see, that's for hitting Chavs in the face! :D

Bloody show-off Jay!

I would come but I'll be skiing in France. :D Mark

Today I mostly re-wired the injector connectors coz they're all shagged anyway, and optimistically hoping it would cure my 9 months of rough running (on part throttle while under 3000rpm)... So- off I toddle to my mate who's done pleny of wiring before, for extra advice and another pair of hands. :smw: All seems simple enough- prepared the new connectors on their flying leads, snipped off the old leads at a suitable point. First problem- the aligning keyway on the new connectors is central, but on the old connectors is slightly to the left. D'oh! Anyway, it's clear that the connection bits will fit so careful use of the solding iron shaves out the keyway in the right position. So then we get to the back of the engine- bit difficult to get the soldering iron under the balance bar and fuel pipes, so out come all the nuts holding the fuel piping and after a bit of pulling and swearing the engine-top loom finds itself in a far more manoevrable position. Doing the final tweaking and -CRACK-!!! "What the fook was that?!" :confused: Fortunately it turns out to just be a brittle connector cover. "Don't worry" my mate says "we can just plug it back in and... oh crap" one of the brittle wires leading to the brittle connector snaps off. "Right- we'll have to pull it through here and... oh no!" :x: Pulling another connector through first, one of the wires snaps to that one. :headvswal Of course by now it's started sleeting, light's fading, and we're using the heat-shrink gun to warm our hands up! So out comes my mate's million-candel-power-type torch, and the battery goes flat :mac1: So I break out my shake-to-charge torch and :xxx: away (fortunately my arm's strong after, er, certain threads featured recently! :x: ) Ended up just splicing together one set of wires previously going through a connector, so if anything big ever need doing they'll just have to be cut. Got all the injector connectors done though, and reconnected the other one. Started her up, and thank fook for that, she actually runs! :nana2: Drove back and no dramas, but it did kangeroo at a few points, so after aaaaaaaaaaall that, it looks like the problem's not cured But then it needed doing at some point anyway, and at least things are no worse... Right. I feel better for sharing my pain now! I'm off for a :duffer: now; thanks for your time... :D

If you follow your heart, it's got to be the Zed. :D If you follow your wallet however (or purse!) then I reckon the s14 wins...

:slap: for the first bit! But that said, my mate bought an S14 when I got my Zed, and TBH I'd seriously consider it if going through the whole thing again. 4 cylinders in 1 block and a newer car. Less likely to go wrong, and when it does it's half the cost! Not to mention fuel consumption ... :( :x: What am I saying?! :nelson: The Zed has my heart. Maybe the S14 is a great car and cheaper to run/mod, but the Zed has to be one of the best looking cars on the road. And it feels great. The Zed is a muscley GT; the S14 is just a fancy saloon. :D

Good luck mate- from your join date I presume you got yours after I got mine, and I've done sweet FA to it! So at least you've done stuff :) Hope you stick with it...

Chicken Dansak or Balti (coriander heaven!) Pilau rice on a bed of coriander. Peshwari Nan All this talk reminds me of the one and only time I entered a chilli-eating competition. All my mates eventually dropped out bar one, but we still did it anyway. I won with 10 bird-eye chillis eaten back-to-back. No beverages allowed. Contestants had to visibly chew each chilli. I was high for about half an hour, and my face went all tingly for the same time. Didn't notice it too much though as my mouth was on fire for the next hour. Mark

The sun is shining and the birds are singing, so... targas off and shades on for the journey into work! :cool: :nana2: Ok, it may be fooking cold, but my hands and ears have thawed out now and I feel better for it. :D Mark

The sound of Jason's car booting it through the Dartford Tunnel :nana2: Sound file (330kB- smaller for people who are in a hurry!) http://homepage.ntlworld.com/mawglobal/TEMP/JayDart.wav And the vid clip (4MB- not really worth it, as I was concentrating on driving not cameramanship!) http://homepage.ntlworld.com/mawglobal/TEMP/JayDart.mpg

Good meet! Thought I'd post my pics too :D Working on the vid clip through the Dartford tunnel... The last one is Jay grinning like a Cheshire Cat, and is probably much the same image that the GTO driver will be left with as they raced down the A3...

No worries matey! Think that's all sorted now- pity you couldn't make the meet, but there'll be others! :D Mark

I'm deffo coming now :hyper: Baggins- plz can you bring my injector conectors? Cheers bud.

For info, Eisegerwind is the real expert on all this. I just pinched his information and applied it! So- credit to Eisegerwind I think :bow: Mark

The speedo PCB has the speedo dial mounted on it, so you have to disassemble the whole binnacle which is tedious but not too difficult. The only dodgy bit is removing the switch pods- the screw posts fragmented a bit when I took mine apart so I had to buy some longer screws when it came to put it back together. So there are the two options- one is to tweak the existing set-up and the other is to swap the resistor, but you still need to tweak it afterwards to get it reading right. I think the adjuster screw that SRRAE speaks of is the calibration pot which I talk about. I know that there are (at least!) 2 versions of PCB and mine had 2 calibration pots- one for the offset (i.e. it reads 0 when you're not moving) and the other for the scale (sets the range). On mine the pots are at the top of the PCB, so I drilled 2 holes in the speedo housing so that with the binnacle cover off, I could stick a small screwdriver down at twiddle on the move. As far as the resistor change goes, you need to be a bit handy with a soldering iron. You have to desolder the old resistor and then solder in the new one. Useful links: Binnacle dismantle: http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showpost.php?p=297744 My conversion pt1: http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=35682 My conversion pt2: http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=36601 The last thread has lots of pics for reference. Mark

:rofl: PMSL! First class!

All you need to do is swap the resistor out on the speedo PCB, but the trick will be finding the right value component. J-spec (33k Ohm) goes to 120mph, Euro spec (20k Ohm) goes to 180mph (and above! I've got the same resistor on my clocks reading up to 190mph). Just had a quick look at possible values and I reckon 27k might do you- the calibration pot varies a fair amount anyway. In fact, it might be worth twiddling the calibration pot in the first place, but I don't think it'd go as high as 160. Hope that helps! Mark

It should work like this... From the User CP, edit your ride. Where it says "Photos" click "Browse". That'll allow you to browse your PC for the pics you want. Once you've selected and uploaded each pic in turn, exit or whatever back to the ride edit page. Right click on a pic you want in your sig and select "copy shortcut". Back to the User CP, now select edit signature. insert the following: [_img][_/img] (remove the _ from what I typed) And just repeat the last few steps for each pic you want. I've pretty much typed that from memory, so soz if I've got anything wrong! Mark

Can't make it! I can rarely make Tuesdays anyway :cry:

I'll act all like :eek: What a coincidence! :rolleyes: Let's go and join them! On the other hand, I'm not sure that she'd see an hour and a half's drive around the M25 as romantic, particularly in the Zed! She just doesn't understand...