John Dixon

I'm about to put a 4.5l nissan V8 in mine (VH45DE).

Vacuum cap kit -

No you don't need the jets if you have a controller (man or electronic). They do the same job.

Absolutely no chance Rob. The whole reason I'm doing this is to get shot of horrible turbo power delivery. Might put a screw blower on at some point if cams and hi comp pistons cost too much, but as Leigh says, with 16 38mm inlet valves, 500 should be possible.

Tony, if you pull the map with conzult and email me it I'll tell you what it's set up for.

Have a look on some peugeots in scrappies, they used to have small rubber blanks on a few hoses. Got some 6mm ones on my car but I think there were some 3mm. Failing that, try deemon tweeks or think automotive, sure someone must make blanks.

Take them all back to the hardpipe and throttle bodies where they're fed from. Lets you remove several small vacuum galleries then too. I just resorted to bits of 3mm silicone hose with a bolt in the end sealed with hermetite blue.

15psi is about right. I ran mine at 15,16,17 & 18 while recording the MAF voltage. You get next to nothing more in terms of flow above 15psi at high revs, but looking at the compressor maps you're falling off the efficiency curve, so there's really no point pushing them past 15. 16-17 does feel better in the mid range, but you're much more likely to det. Also, the tubs probably aren't mechanically good enough for sustained running like that.

It's a sample bottle from work, then I just bonded a 1/4" outlet onto it and drilled the cap as a vent. To fill it, you have to remove the cradle, but it's never needed done (it's just expansion room). If you can't get a bottle that fits, drop me a line and I'll try to get you one like that.

Not too sure, as I put the greddy coolers on at the same time. Got to be worth it though.

I made up a smaller tank to replace mine, and junked the carbon cannister:

Cheers guys there'll be a few beers in it for anyone that turns some up!

Cheers Rich. Will keep annoying the ones I know too.

Really odd, but I looked at one recently where the throttle closed switch wouldn't make with the TPS anywhere near 0.4v, had to wind it to 0.16!! Suspect there's some bad wiring somewhere, so the +ve feed to the TPS is at too low a voltage or something. Ran out of time to check it over though. Tried 2 different TPS though, same result.

Just got the first set of TB's for my V8 intake :D If anyone hears of another set going (Susuki Hayabusa) then let me know!

8mm? Where are you bypassing them? I did mine from under the back of the plenum, straight onto the turbo feeds. Definately 6mm fitted there. Silicone hose is OK -20 --> 180°C roughly so should be fine. No leaks from mine anyway.

5mm silicone or 6mm rubber, less than 1m in total.

Some south african stuff than looked like flat coke but was 80% vol and burned all your insides to pieces!

I think SARD do direct fit 850cc injectors, you could just buy them perhaps?

Yeah, could get some really bizarre brake setups then!!

You can't do a diagonal split if you want a bias valve though. Unless you can get a dual one, but never seen one before.

You could always try a 4.5l NA :p

Just unplug it the computer, actuator and pull the bulb out of the dash. May be worth looking into the circuit to short the healthy signal from the ABS ECU so that low fluid would still activate the light. I'll look into it when I do mine.

It's 4.5l, about 320bhp in stock form, torque I think is about 350ft ib it's a lot lighter than the V6 and pretty cheap to pick up. I'm just going to all the trouble to try to actually make a Z that drives well. Getting rid of the weight over the front is a big + obviously, and eliminating turbo lag is my main priority. Initially I'm going for independant throttles and having cams made. Should net around 370-400bhp with good torque spread. If that's still not enough, then I'll supercharge it with a screw or centrifugal blower, but trying to stay away from forced induction.

It's not too hard to remove. Just put a tee on the outlet on the matster cyl then feed one line to each front caliper. Use one of the original lines back to the ABS and tee that to the 2 rear brakes. Remove the other line, the job done. Not that I'm planning to do this soon or anything ...