nickz32

Welcome back fella!

They should be 48p’s

Personally found the later electronic system much more natural to drive than the earlier hydraulic system. What they did to the calibration I’m not sure, but it’s deffinately a better system

Happy birthday buddy!

Yeah, unfortunately it has been halted yet again...... the Elite ECU has been sent back to Haltech for inspection.... the best way to describe the problem is that the Elite thinks the ignition switch is being turned on and off rapidly, which in turn is triggering a safety mode that stops the engine revving past 5000 rpm. one of these days everything will go smoothly

I’m 99.9% sure I have a set

H13

I’d like to know how an MOT tester would be able to differentiate between normal Z headlights and 99 spec xenons without the model specific knowledge. As a personal guess, cars fitted with projector lenses would be fine.... however I suspect the age of our vehicles will be used as the evidence to show they’re not standard. but as andy says... I have my friendly MOT tester, so I’m sure it’ll be fine

I’d like to try and make this

Brilliant news!

Could be a number of things. first I would check your throttle position sensor is set around 0.40-0.45v when closed. It’s easy to knock them when servicing an engine and out them out of adjustment. if it’s worse under load, it’s likely to be air or fuel related.... I’d then suspect either the Fuel Pump Control Unit or the MAF. FPCU is easy to bypass and is a common failure point.... MAF is a bit trickier to diagnose as they can play up without being “fully” dead... there’s plenty of articles on the forum on adjusting/testing TPS on the forum aswell as how to bypass the FPCU. good luck

Nice ?

Having scanned back through a fair few pages, it appears that I haven’t written an up to date spec of the car for some time.... so here goes... Engine spec 88mm CP forged Pistons, Diamondyze anodized black Saenz Forged Con Rods King XP main and big end bearings EP Racing Thermal Barrier Piston Coating EP Racing High Performance Bearing Coating EP Racing Billet Crankshaft Cap kit EP Racing High Capacity baffled Sump v2 ARP main crank and head studs EP Racing modified crank EP Racing modified oil pump BDE oil tree Improved Racing remote oil filter housing Dash 10 braided oil lines with AN fittings Setrab 23 row oil cooler ATi Super Damper with EPR trigger wheel and Hall Effect sensor Ross Performance Camshaft Trigger Kit (CAS Elimination kit) EP Racing “Street” profile CNC Head Port EPR “street profile” 3 angle CNC cut valve seats. EPR Genesis 1 camshafts (272 deg 10.1mm lift) Manley 1mm oversize valves SuperTech dual coil valve springs and titanium spring retainers Solid lifters (replaces hydraulic lifters) Ferrea valve guides BDE v2 intake VTC pulleys BDE v2 exhaust pulleys Power Enterprises Kevlar timing belt EP Racing belt tensioner AMS exhaust manifolds - ceramic coated Z1 GT525 turbos, modified with enlarged wastegate port - ceramic coated AMS 3in expansion down pipes - ceramic coated Custom 3” stainless steel exhaust system using Vibrant resonators and silencers and stainless steel V-Bands (yet to be built, but have the parts) AMS smoked timing covers Zspec fasteners WinFactory top feed fuel rail with Injector Dynamics 1050x (1065cc) injectors 2x APEXI air filters Concept Z Performance 2.5” intercooler piping Z1 motorsport 2.5” intercoolers HKS SSQV4 dump valves TRANSMISSION SZ segmented flywheel RPS street max 350Z clutch fork and chromoly pivot braided 1 piece clutch line Bronze linkage bushings FUEL SYSTEM Dash 8 stainless steel braided fuel lines from tank to rail with AN Fittings Billet fuel pump hanger Ti Automotive 525lph fuel pump TurboSmart FPR2000 fuel pressure regulator FPCU bypass ENGINE MANAGEMENT Haltech Elite 2000 stand-alone ecu with associated sensors Haltech WBO2 Wideband controller with associated wideband sensors Haltech 4 port CAN-BUS module Haltech 12 position map switch Haltech 3 bar MAP sensor, boost solenoid and IAT sensor AEM 150psi fuel pressure and oil pressure sensors CHASSIS Varrstoen ES2 wheels (18x9.5J front 18x10.5 rear) Brembo front and rear calipers w 355mm discs Braided brake lines CZP rear subframe locking collars Power trim front camber arms Tein front tie rods NISMO front tension rods Whiteline Suspension rear camber arms Whiteline Suspension Anti Roll Bars (front and rear) BODY Stillen GTZ front valance Twins brake ducts Stone guard finish removed from sills and back bumper and smoothed Rear arches flared WinFactory CLS-R spoiler Carbon fibre scuttle panel New Nissan roof and door mouldings and rubber seals throughout Full “glass out” respray in original KH3 Super Black (original colour) INTERIOR OMP dished steering wheel Defi oil/water/boost gauges Blitz turbo timer.

The full engine spec is listed, probably a couple of pages or so back. I don’t know if you have, but it’s worth going through the whole thread, I detail all the finer details of the build, the hows and why’s throughout. The limiting factor in terms of peak power is the turbos, which I’m fine with because they will give super quick spool and a really wide power band..... it’s still going to be primarily a road car, so peaky top end power is of no real use to me. There’s a long standing belief in the engine building world that if you build an engine as you would a high performance NA engine, the benefits are amplified when boosted (rather than just strapping big turbos on a fairly unimproved long block in terms of valvetrain, porting, etc) and that’s what I’ve done with my engine, I’ve specced the long block as highly as I can to maximise what the turbos can deliver.

For those of you interested, here is a good video about the Superflow SF902 engine dyno

It just continues my ethos of having the best quality work and the best quality map on my engine.... however the proof will be in the pudding. there may be an opportunity for some interesting testing on the engine aswell, will just have to see if things pan out

It’s just a fast road build, however I wanted an understressed engine. The engine is built for 1000hp and 8500rpm, but I’ll only be running at 60-70%ish of that power and a lower rpm, so should enable many miles of thrashing without any worries about the components being close to their operational limits

So, I can finally show you what’s been going on with my engine! In order to finally rid my set up of its gremlins, and in order to get the BEST possible tune, my engine has gone back to the states where, as a first for a VG engine in the USA, it has been mounted to a Superflow SF902 engine dyno. EPR have undertaken all the work to make the required adapters, mounts etc etc to ensure a perfect fitment to an a fine dyno that is primarily used for small block V8’s and alike. ALOT of work has gone into making this a possibility, and I’m chuffed that my engine was the first! As you may have seen in my for sale ad, I’ve also upgraded to a Haltech Elite 2000 ecu. This will enable me to run multiple fuel and ignition maps (low boost, high boost, high boost with race fuel..... up to 12 maps in total) as well as numerous other feature upgrades that make the ecu a much better choice for future proofing my project. For those who don’t know the advantages of an engine dyno VG’s a chassis dyno, the main ones are 1) an EXACT crank HP reading rather than a calculated reading by a chassis dyno 2) much finer control of ramp rate, enable much finer tuning of fuel and ignition cells 3) lab controlled conditions, enabling finer control of airflow through intercooler aswell as oil and coolant control.... no worries about over heating the engine. I’m waiting on an can adapter for the Wideband controller so it can be wired into the Elite ecu... as soon as I have videos and numbers I’ll post it here!

3% import duty plus 20% vat

I’m not sure the ‘95’s had it. I’ve seen a fair few late models now that don’t have it. I think they got rid of it when they got rid of the grey moustache on the front bumper

I’ll see how they last, I was pretty liberal with the clear... but worst case I’ll do the same and have them powder coated or cerakoted

So I attacked them with a stiff wire wheel, a couple of coats of etching primer and Ford Stratos silver (closest match I could get to the whiteline silver). They were finished with some new decals and 2k laquer... let’s hope they last!

One little update I can give! I bought a set of Whiteline anti roll bars from Banzai Breakers a fair while back, and they’ve been sat on the shelf gathering dust for a while, so month or so ago I decided to give them a clean up. As you can see, they were a little on the grotty side!