nickz32

Nope. NO Pre August 1995 300zx requires cats for emissions test. Emissions standard between 1/8/86 and 1/8/1995 UNLESS LISTED emmission database Annex is 3.5%vol Carbon Monoxide and 0.12% (1200ppm) Hydrocarbons. Aka Not Cat Test. The Nissan 300ZX is NOT LISTED in the Annex document. While fitted as standard, the cats are NOT required to pass the above emissions test

Why do you need cats, they’re not needed for emissions test

Well I’m happy to say I’m about to start the rebuild process of my engine! im hoping to drop my block and internals off to my chosen machine shop in the next week or two (work permitting). Im scrapping the EPR block and starting again with a donor block I bought from Banzai Breakers months ago. Fortunately, as my billet main caps measured tighter than they should, there is sufficient material to be able to correct the oval and non-concentric issues with them to make them reusable. So, the plan as it currently stands is to machine my donor block to 88mm for my CP pistons, remachine the billet mains, resurface the block faces, balance the replacement crank and rotating assembly. Then I can start the assembly process while I have my heavily worked heads resurfaced to a proper finish. I will be assembling the engine myself. They one positive that has come from this while EPR saga is the knowledge I have gained about machining and engine assembly, meaning I’m very confident I can build a solid engine. I won’t be reusing my GT525’s are they suffered too much damage from the bearing failure, so this time I’ll be using a set of Pulsar Gen 2 GTX2860’s. It became apparent during tuning that the GT525’s fell off a cliff at 6200rpm and meant I lost out on the performance my head and cam package should deliver. The 2860’s will easily flow what I need and very little sacrifice of spool, so it should be a more complete package that makes over 600hp with less effort. In short….. positive updates coming soon… with pics

Did you get new springs from meister?

Thanks Andrew, hope you’re keeping well

Thanks all…. Spent the morning prepping for engine to go to machine shop to start the upcoming rebuild

Paul @ Banzai breakers probably has one

There is, but it involves going back through the courts….. I’m in the process of doing that as we speak, and as per previous proceedings, it’s slow As F!

Appears EPR have now changed their company name to Race Engine Solutions Group LLC….. no doubt in an attempt to avoid paying me

The cost of a replacement car of similar age and colour is now in excess of £25,000, plus the modifications that would need to be replaced like for like, I’d guess around 40k for insurance purposes

Well I’d love to give a positive update on this….. but I can’t EPR continue to frustrate my efforts to collect my judgement with evasive answers to post judgement discovery requests. Yet again, I’m a slave to the outrageously slow Texas justice system to get back in front of a judge and seek enforcement of the judgement. To rub salt in the wounds, EPR keeps posting their work on social media accounts with no regard for the fact they owe me a court ordered sum of money. Frustrated doesn’t even come close

Welcome back Steve!

I’m pretty sure Vince passed away a few years back…. At least that’s what I heard. John Dixon still has his Z and is looking to resurrect it soon. SMW1 I believe fell into quite a state of disrepair and was broken for parts

If it’s pouring from the exhaust, then it should have been running at least 1 cylinder down. If you’re sure that was the case, yes an injector is dumping fuel or an o ring has split where the injector fits the rail. Pull the spark plugs, it should be obvious which cylinder. Absolute priority should be changing the oil, fuel dilution of the oil will destroy an engine double quick time!

Cheers budd

Owned and operated by Mitchell Wilson / Mitch Wilson

For anyone wondering who Nick Johnson is….. it’s me!

Thanks bud. If I can ask people to comment on the YouTube vid and share it so I can play the “algorithm game” and get maximum exposure, that would be massively appreciated!

Try Collecting Cars

Yes, our 99 is the same as their 93. personally, the amount the dual MAF setup costs, you’re 80% there to a Haltech Platinum Pro standalone that absolutely snots a stock ecu and “dual” MAF setup in every measurable way possible…. I know what I’d do out of those two options! This is where I feel whoever did the dyno last time could have spent an extra few minutes to help diagnose. Really, they should have dropped the boost to see if the issue persisted or changed or disappeared. Maybe that was a lack of knowledge of the car on the tuner part and has taken the “engine wants what it wants” a bit too literally. I wouldn’t be using him again. Again, if it were me, I’d have tried incremental increases from wastegate to 16 psi to establish where the loss of ability to reach full RPM disappeared (Stock 9psi, 12psi, 14psi). That would have shown if it was an airflow problem or something else. I’d suggest it would probably be worth an hours dyno time at Horsham etc just to do some runs on different boost levels, monitor the AFR’s and see what the engine does and where the problem arises. I wouldn’t do it on your own with just boost level changes as you don’t know what the fuelling has been set up like above where the tuner was terminating the dyno runs Dont give up on the car yet. A bit like my situation, it’s not the cars fault that it’s not running right….. after all it’s an inanimate object! It just needs setting up properly! On a proper tune at 16psi, it should be in the low 400’s and a very very different car to drive.

Just for clarity, when you raised the boost, did you got from wastegate pressure straight to 16psi, or was it raised incrementally?

Honestly, for you spec, I wouldn’t bother with the selin. Any gains would be marginable. I ran single intake up to 590hp with no problems.

I mean there’s nothing screaming out as a glaring issue. 2.25” exhaust is small and will be causing back pressure issues. That will be a contributing factor…. Be worth checking that none of your silencers/resonators have collapsed internally. what brand air filter is it?

I’ve gone back to 2017 and can’t see a spec sheet of your build bud, mind writing one out?