nickz32

Thanks Andrew, hope you’re keeping well

Thanks all…. Spent the morning prepping for engine to go to machine shop to start the upcoming rebuild

Paul @ Banzai breakers probably has one

There is, but it involves going back through the courts….. I’m in the process of doing that as we speak, and as per previous proceedings, it’s slow As F!

Appears EPR have now changed their company name to Race Engine Solutions Group LLC….. no doubt in an attempt to avoid paying me

The cost of a replacement car of similar age and colour is now in excess of £25,000, plus the modifications that would need to be replaced like for like, I’d guess around 40k for insurance purposes

Well I’d love to give a positive update on this….. but I can’t EPR continue to frustrate my efforts to collect my judgement with evasive answers to post judgement discovery requests. Yet again, I’m a slave to the outrageously slow Texas justice system to get back in front of a judge and seek enforcement of the judgement. To rub salt in the wounds, EPR keeps posting their work on social media accounts with no regard for the fact they owe me a court ordered sum of money. Frustrated doesn’t even come close

Welcome back Steve!

I’m pretty sure Vince passed away a few years back…. At least that’s what I heard. John Dixon still has his Z and is looking to resurrect it soon. SMW1 I believe fell into quite a state of disrepair and was broken for parts

If it’s pouring from the exhaust, then it should have been running at least 1 cylinder down. If you’re sure that was the case, yes an injector is dumping fuel or an o ring has split where the injector fits the rail. Pull the spark plugs, it should be obvious which cylinder. Absolute priority should be changing the oil, fuel dilution of the oil will destroy an engine double quick time!

Cheers budd

Owned and operated by Mitchell Wilson / Mitch Wilson

For anyone wondering who Nick Johnson is….. it’s me!

Thanks bud. If I can ask people to comment on the YouTube vid and share it so I can play the “algorithm game” and get maximum exposure, that would be massively appreciated!

Try Collecting Cars

Yes, our 99 is the same as their 93. personally, the amount the dual MAF setup costs, you’re 80% there to a Haltech Platinum Pro standalone that absolutely snots a stock ecu and “dual” MAF setup in every measurable way possible…. I know what I’d do out of those two options! This is where I feel whoever did the dyno last time could have spent an extra few minutes to help diagnose. Really, they should have dropped the boost to see if the issue persisted or changed or disappeared. Maybe that was a lack of knowledge of the car on the tuner part and has taken the “engine wants what it wants” a bit too literally. I wouldn’t be using him again. Again, if it were me, I’d have tried incremental increases from wastegate to 16 psi to establish where the loss of ability to reach full RPM disappeared (Stock 9psi, 12psi, 14psi). That would have shown if it was an airflow problem or something else. I’d suggest it would probably be worth an hours dyno time at Horsham etc just to do some runs on different boost levels, monitor the AFR’s and see what the engine does and where the problem arises. I wouldn’t do it on your own with just boost level changes as you don’t know what the fuelling has been set up like above where the tuner was terminating the dyno runs Dont give up on the car yet. A bit like my situation, it’s not the cars fault that it’s not running right….. after all it’s an inanimate object! It just needs setting up properly! On a proper tune at 16psi, it should be in the low 400’s and a very very different car to drive.

Just for clarity, when you raised the boost, did you got from wastegate pressure straight to 16psi, or was it raised incrementally?

Honestly, for you spec, I wouldn’t bother with the selin. Any gains would be marginable. I ran single intake up to 590hp with no problems.

I mean there’s nothing screaming out as a glaring issue. 2.25” exhaust is small and will be causing back pressure issues. That will be a contributing factor…. Be worth checking that none of your silencers/resonators have collapsed internally. what brand air filter is it?

I’ve gone back to 2017 and can’t see a spec sheet of your build bud, mind writing one out?

That’s exactly why I went to Haltech so long ago! When my car was virtually stock (Stillen filter and kakimoto cat back) it made peak power at 6850 before tailing off to Rev limit….. and it stock boost made 339bhp at SRR. I’ll see if I can find the dyno print Something I hadn’t noticed before is the fact you low boost makes peak power and revs out cleanly to red line yet your high boost doesn’t is also unusual! I’ll go back through your thread and see if there’s anything I spot that could be a cause, because at lower boost your engine is flowing enough air to breath all the way to red line, yet when you up the boost it appears to choke out

Somethings deffo not adding up here, there no mechanical reason why it shouldn’t be revving up to the factory 7200rpm rev limiter. It has to be electronic systems based issue. But for the sake of being thorough, I’d do a compression and leak down test to eliminate any potential issues in the combustion chamber (I’m not suspecting any, but better to be safe than sorry and know for sure!) the fact the dyno sheets don’t show what happens after 6200 rpm doesn’t really help with being able diagnose the issue. Did the tuner give a reason as to why he didn’t Rev it all the way out to the limiter? I don’t think the issue is VTC as I originally thought. The engine would still Rev out but it’s peak power would be made at around 5000 rpm and the torque curve would drop off more dramatically than that. spark gap shouldn’t have made the slightest bit of difference at 16psi of boost, even at 24psi I ran NGK supplied gaps with no issue at all. Which makes me think ignition system based issue producing a weak spark Is it still on a S1 PTU? Any sign of any misfire no matter how minor?

Can you post a photo of the dyno graph so I can see what it’s doing at the top end… gut instinct says VTC isn’t disengaging and it’s stuck with too much valve overlap

Hey all. well I’m happy to say my engine saga is now pretty much behind me and I’m free to move on with my car! So, what does the future hold…. Well I’ve pretty much got to start again. I’m yet to finalise what is salvageable and what isn’t, hopefully I’ll get a definitive answer on that in the not to distant future. However, I know the crank and turbo chargers are goosed and will need replacing. I’ve already sourced a replacement crank and block should I need to replace that…. Turbos are by far my biggest future expense, so will have to take some time to consider my options. I do know I won’t be staying on GT525’s, I simply can’t make full use of my build specs on these turbos. Even with all supporting mods, I’ve hit the limit of what they can safely produce without E85. im also going to do some chassis mods while the engine is out. This will mainly be refreshing bushings and arms with a bit of powder and zinc coating thrown in for good measure. looking forward to getting started and being active again in the Z community….. I’ve really missed it!