nickz32

Final stages of the head work are under way! First, lapping the valves into the seats... with a little tease of the CNC work Then onto surfacing the head Leaving something like this And then the small details. This access hole is normally sealed with a solid aluminium plug. It’s an access point into the oil galleys that feed they hydraulic lifters. Once the plug is removed, the galley is cleaned and the port has a thread tapped and a grub screw installed to make that access point serviceable in the future. Things like this really reinforce the decision to have EPR build my engine.

1: Funkysi (Simon) 2: AndrewG 3: nickz32

A little vid showing the cams in situ

I’ll add a quick footnote. As a general rule of thumb the cc Number if the injectors is roughly the maximum HP the injectors will support safely, so 370cc roughly supports max of 370hp, 550cc=550hp max etc etc etc. Obviously there are lots of other variables to take into account, but as I say, it’s a good rule of thumb

Where did you get that duty cycle reading from whilst on the rollers?

Yes mate, 1:1 rising rate so @14.5 psi boost fuel pressure is at 58psi

Head #2 being cam lobe clearanced for the EPR Genesis 1 camshafts

With regard to injector sizing for boost, the maths don’t lie. 370cc @ 43.5psi injectors x6 2998cc 6 cylinder engine Boost pressure of 14.5psi Maintaining AFR of 11.5/1 At 7000 rpm duty cycle is at 95.25% The general consensus for ROAD based cars is duty cycle shouldn’t exceed 85%. Whilst the flow-pressure characteristics of the OEM pump mean that At 60psi absolute pressure it still flows a sufficient volume of fuel that reduce the risk of running a higher duty cycle for a VERY short period of time, running above 85% does mean that you’re eating into a margin of safety that is there to account for variances in atmospheric conditions including both air and fuel temperatures. To be able to flow enough fuel for more than 14.5 psi, you would have to raise your base rate fuel pressure to effectively force more fuel out of the injector at any given duty cycle. The risk of this is that as fuel pressure goes up the amount of fuel the pump can flow goes down.... you then run the risk of running lean by way of insufficient fuel supply from the pump. When you then factor in that the early style pintle capped injectors are at least 26 years old by now, and simply don’t spray as cleanly or consistently as the newer style pintleless injectors, I would STRONGLY advise changing to the new style Nismo 740cc injectors to ensure safe running at anything above the boost levels Jimmer as set for you.

One was a 240Z from Hampshire Jap Cars, didn’t see what the other was

Nice little show.... didn’t have much chance to grab any pics as had my hands full with the little ones. Good to catch up and chew the fat with Andrew, Si, Ian and Howard. Nice to meet you ThRealNips and Gio

It’s an 8 quart sump, so 9 litre capacity

I’d like to think it will be ready for shipping at some point next week. The heads will be cam lobe clearance, skimmed, deburred, cleaned and assembled this week, after that it’s install and set the cam timing. Shouldn’t be far off

Complete spec: @cp_carrillo 88mm pistons treated with @techlinecoatings black Diamondyze, crown and skirt ceramic coating, @saenzperformance tri-beam forged con rods, @kingbearings XP series mains and big end bearings, @arpbolts 2000 series main studs and rod bolts, EPR Billet mains caps, modified crank, modified oil pump and extended and baffled sump. Also had the waste gates ported an extra 1mm to help reduce the boost creep issues.

Another little job finished today. Cleaned up the coolant pipes on the front of the engine. Will ceramic coat with the Carbon Collective Platinum Wheels to keep that fresh out of the cast look

New H pipe has been remade using the 3” Vibrant Ultra Quiets. I always thought my Kakimoto system was 3” bore, but it turns out that it was actually 70mm, so a touch smaller. As I’m still using the Kakimoto rear section, we’ve kept the flanges in the same position and rotation as they originally were. Be interested to see how it sounds now

A bit of faffery today. As the OE ducts block both the entirety of the top and bottom rows and 20mm in on each side, reducing the surface area exposed to the cooling air significantly, I decided to mock up my own ducts for my @Z1Motorsports SMIC’s (normal ones not the BA version) to maximise their cooling efficiency. Fabrication has never been my forte, but SMIC duct V1.03 appears to do the trick (v1.00, 001 and 002 were rubbish :lol: ). Just need to mount the front fascia back on to check for clearance issues, tweak a couple of the dimensions then on to the first draft of the metal version Next time I’m at the car I’ll take a pic of the OE duct as a comparison. I’ve also had a bit of a play with ducting the air out of the intercoolers, through the vents I installed into the arch liners. What a PITA that turned out to be! Not sure how to be work the angles on this..... much more pondering required. But in the mean time I’ve bought a Mushimoto expansion tank for the radiator and fully deleted the carbon canister. For the driver side I’m going to down size the washer fluid reservoir, which I’m still in the process of sorting

Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve, it’s part of the emissions control system. It can be deleted but is a bit of a faff of a job

The Nickz32 fam are making the trip out for this, but in the Mrs Beemer again. We won’t make the early RVP though and will be down mid morning

I’d say that’s a coolant pipe for the water pipes that run under the Plenum rather than a vacuum pipe

I’ve had two generations of street Max now, the blue pressure plate and the most recent silver pressure plate. Brilliant clutches, but the new one is simply the best clutch on the market for the Z

Dammit..... really fancy a pair of 99 spec headlights. Looks fantastic bud

Thirded! Literally no point at looking at anything else, it’s that good

Well deserved! Congrats Ian

So as you rightly pointed out, concentricity is usually measured in thou. That measurement is, if you imagine, looking square in the face of the valve seat, how central the guide is to the seat. A concentricity dial gauge measures the run out in thou. My issue is with the guide, in that while it’s central the the seat, it’s pitch isn’t at 90 degrees to the seat (it’s 4 degrees off). This has happened either during machining of the guide and it hasn’t been detected, or during the reaming and honing of the guide during installation.