nickz32

So even though HMRC took their sweet effing time processing the parcel, I finally managed to get my hand on my latest purchase, the new WinFactory top feed fuel rail. This is a CNC billet fuel rail that has replaced the mk1 Winfactory rail that was made of steel tubing. Included in the kit is the rail itself, straps to hold it in position, a new throttle cable bracket, lower plenum adaptors and Injector Dynamics ID1050X 1065cc injectors and pig tails. Putting the rail together was incredibly easy After making up some new fuel lines to make my entire fuel system -8 bore braided fuel line and using Torques-uk fuel line AN fittings And making up a new sub loom for the injector connectors Getting the lines to sit how I wanted in a nice discreet manner made the jod a bit more fiddly than I wanted it to be, but details details details. After updating the injectors on my Haltech (oh the joys of VE based tuning) she fired up as sweet as ever. [video=youtube_share;6adblgdUmZw] Off to the bodyshop on Monday for its full respray.....

Thanks for the birthday wishes guys, was hoping to be spending the day fitting my new top feed fuel set up, but parcel farce/HM customs baulked that idea!

Annoyingly not...... customs STILL have my fuel rail Cheers all

So Mitch at EP Racing has just posted a very interesting video on FB where he has cut up a VG block into segments in order to show the VG blocks strengths and weaknesses. Very interesting stuff

Aaaaaaaaah, I did wonder whose Z was driving around Anglesey! I commented on your vid mate

Good little turn out if I remember

Just had an email from GRRC, sushi Sunday is CANCELLED.

Take the head to a machine shop with the camshaft. They'll be able to check the bore on the journal and if there's any eccentricity or throw out in the camshaft itself. You sure a valve spring or retainer isnt sat correctly and fouling inside its bucket. Maybe an excessive spring height issue? As long as it's not a bad score, they should be able to hone it out to give you your clearance. - - - Updated - - - Infact, I take back that spring height remark, it should only sit as high as the valve stem when the valve is fully shut

Yep, Charlie still runs SRR, however it's moved from when you were last there, they're now in Farnborough. Seem to remember seeing that he's shut first week of October

take off the caps and inspect the cam bearings and the caps and see if you can see any scoring that will give you a clue as to where it's pinching Have you had the heads checked for straightness by a machine shop? If the heads check out as straight, then you could have the cam journals line bored to regain correct fitment

Wasn't today, but anyway, more goodies arrived for me (and some for BigH) in time for my respray. Lots of OE mouldings and clips, couple of interior and suspension parts aswell Just waiting for these bad boys to turn up and replace my NISMO 740's and modified fuel rail She's getting close to completion by the day!

Think I've got some JapFest track pics from maybe '07 or '08 when Chris had it

Good to hear your planning on getting her up and running again buddy

Hoping to come down on the bike, just waiting to here from work as to if I'm on call or not

Could be a number of things. As Andrew mentions, pick up point for timing light, could be beginnings of a faulty CAS, could be an under tensioned timing belt. What's the idle like? Stable or fluctuating?

Did you guys manage to drive route nap in the end?

Looks like a very very very poorly piston to me

There is definitely SOME pas assistance, it's not completely dead. I can feel a change in resistance in the steering wheel when starting the engine, just feels like it's on absolute minimum assistance

Cheers Jeff With regard to the clearly pish steering angle potentially triggering the failsafe on the HICAS system, would this not trigger the HICAS dash light?

Little update I have put and new speedo converter in. This one corrects the speedo but sends and uncorrected speed signal to the ECU. However, whilst I no longer have any speedo drop out, I still have heavy steering. Conzult still shows the same readings as per the first post. Looks like I'll be going through the car with a multi meter. I'd usually consider trying another HICAS ECU, however, being a s4 car with electronic Super HICAS, the ECU is completely different to hydraulic hicas ECU I've tried taking the HICAS fuse out to "deactivate" the hicas, but symptoms remain the same.. Anyone else got any bright ideas?

Well the official word from Haltech is that their ecu should have zero influence on the rest of the Conzult systems diagnostic capability and the Platinum Pro plug in is calibrated to read the vehicle speed sender via one of the options within the ecu manager. I think I'll try and plug my original ecu back in and see if it makes any difference to the Conzult and the diagnostic results, otherwise I'm going to have to do as I mentioned above and manually check each component with a multi meter and cross reference with the WSM OH THE JOYS

No, the value doesn't change at all. I am wondering if the Haltech is causing an issue with the readings the Conzult is producing. I would have expected that with them being so far out it would have triggered "fail safe" mode and thrown up the HICAS light, which it has never done. It's things likely saying the parking brake was engaged when it wasn't, nor any change when I engage/disengage the clutch or brake pedal. I'm going to send Haltech an email asking if the Platinum plug in ecu properly "speaks" to the hicas ecu. Do you happen to know if I need the engine running to engage the diagnostics mode with Conzult, or does could I just do it with the ignition on (so I could plug in my original ECU and see if I get any different readings) For the mean time, I'm going to look at doing the same "permanent" modification the Skyline boys do and remove the J4 resistor from the circuit board and bridge some of the other connections to recalibrate the speedo, therefore ensuring an unaltered signal to the ecu - - - Updated - - - From there, I'll just look at working through the troubleshooting pages in the WSM and make sure everything is sending the signals to where it's meant to etc and go from there

Nice on Andrew. Any suggestions of what lbs expansion force is suitable for the Z boot?

Ok, well this is interesting. So it appears that with speedo converters, while they correct the speed signal going to the actual dial, they don't correct the signal going to the HICAS ecu. Where's Groover when you need him!

To clarify, I haven't fitted that converter, I mean that's the one that was fitted to the car when it was imported