nickz32

Welcome back fella. Good luck on your hunt for a new Z

Happy birthday mate

My CP Pistons came back from being treated with Diamondyze anodising. This drastically increases the surface hardness of the pistons aswell as improving thermal dispersion and anti friction properties Then they’ve been treated with TechLine ceramic coatings on the crowns and skirt. They’re almost too pretty to put in an engine!

https://www.bcs-automotive.co.uk/brake-caliper-refurbishment/

I’ve used LongLife silencers to replaced the Kakimoto silencers that collapsed in my H pipe....... they’re utterly useless, I may aswell have put straight pipes in my H pipe!

If you’re considering w custom exhaust, speak to Pete Ellis of PTR exhaust in Brackley. Works mainly on Group C, Formula 3 and other historic race cars. Very reasonably priced for the level of quality (he’ll also so building my exhaust)

Won’t be able to make this now chaps. My engine build is delayed and it’s unlikely to have arrived in time

Deffo a DA mate. They rotate on a random orobital action, which means that if they stay on one place for too long your unlikely to burn through the paint, you will with a rotary. The advantages with rotaries was always that you could cut quicker, but with the development of polished and MicroFibre cutting pads that difference is now fairly negligible. There are many versions of the DAS6 and DAS6 Pro, just under different branding names.... they’re all exactly the same. If you fancy splashing a little more cash look at anything by Rupes. Very nice machines and very well built. Stay away from the Megs G220. I’ve had 2 and they’ve both lasted less than 12 months.

Mr DPD dropped something off today.... Beautiful trophy..... thanks to the Club team for this. It’ll sit pride of place on the mantlepiece

Bank 1 is drivers side, bank 2 is passenger side. It’s starting to sound more like a general fuelling issue rather than an electrical glitch, however it also looks like you may have a lazy o2 sensor I’d check the ohmage of your injectors to make sure you’ve not got a misbehaving injector. I’d also change your fuel filter to eliminate any potential restriction in the volume of fuel being sent to the engine. I’d also lest the fuel pump and measure how much it’s flowing.... from memory the TT pump flows circa 265lph, however I’m not sure what the flow rating of the NA pump.

Not overly sure how he’s adjusting the fuel pressure electronically or infact adjusting it at all? The OE FPR has zero adjustability. The only thing I can think he’d be adjusting is the voltage to the fuel pump to increase the fuel pump duty..... but im not aware of a way to do that with the OE ecu. A quick way to increase the fuel pressure up to 43.5psi would be to disconnect the vacuum reference pipe off the FPR and block off the pipe to stop the vac leak. I’d physically check your fuel pressure on a gauge. Should be around 36psi at idle (43.5psi base minus idle vacuum pressure). When was the fuel filter last changed Any sign of any vac leaks on the FPR vacuum line? Voltage to fuel pump? (Should be 9v at idle if the FPCU I working properly)

Haven’t got a clue...... Andrew, Si, Joel any ideas?

I’m pretty sure they did away with the EGR from Series 4 onwards. If you can see the underside of your Plenum just in front of the PCV valves, you’ll see where the EGR would plumb in, it’s blanked off on the later plenums. Out of interest, how does it idle with the MAF unplugged?

Happy Birthday old bean

Yes buddy, idle air valve is the Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) Get the multimeter out to verify what consult/DataScan is seeing https://conceptzperformance.com/wiki/index.php/Throttle_Position_Sensor

It’s not just as simple as setting the TPS to 0.46v, the TPS needs to be between the 0.4-0.5v range AND engaging the hard idle switch/idle control valve. Without that engaged, the idle control valve isn’t activated and isn’t controlling the idle.

Their customer service has always been poor in my experience. CZP always get my business

Swapped out the fuel pumps today. Need to get my backside in gear and sort out the new loom

Had a bit of a detailing day today as my wiring for my pump hasn’t arrived yet. Popped into Clean and Shiney and bought some Scholl S30+ polish. Really impressed with this product. Obviously being a fresh respray I don’t have any heavy defects to worry about, just removing the final have and holigramming from the Bodyshop’s rotary polisher. However, there’s a slightly odd texture to the paint when you look at it up close.... so looks like I’ll be wet sanding it in the future

Are we booked in with them? Funnily enough I just saw one of their posts on insta about the parking situation there (people parking on verges when busy etc)

No fitment issues with mine either. Literally screwed straight on with the Oe fasteners with no fettling required

Ditto

Ah, that’ll be why there’s a difference, my calcs are at 13.5V

Where do you get that calculation from Andrew, it differs somewhat from the one I’ve used... Thinking about it, I think 4 meters was how much I ordered, but I didn’t use all of it..... I’ll have to measure again when I remove my 16AWG wiring

It’s a generic Walbro box, the pump is still an in tank pump