Everything posted by AndyP
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If it ain't broke ....
Every little helps - just send positive thoughts that whisk away the air bubbles ;)
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Idea for new poll...........
The new front discs which warped after 2 weeks The autobox which packed up and lost all drive ! The water pump Both the tension rod bushes The nearside front top suspension link (twice!) The nearside dipped beam which went south due to a dry joint on the bulb Intermittently both main beams after the relay started failing (scary!) All the rear lights which went through this sort of erratic phase due to a loose connector (in the internal fuse box) And that mysterious stalling problem which turned out to be a faulty cable on the TPS Nearside O2 sensor Annoying propshaft vibration solved by new centre prop bearing and rear gearbox mount High tickover problem caused by AAC/poor electrical connection
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If it ain't broke ....
Oi - leave out all the agro cr@p and pray for my master cylinder instead ! :D
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OK, which one would you not throw out of bed...
Gio. Please add Anna Friel to the list :D
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K&N Filter
K&N have a special cleaning stuff and oil, it's probably available from anywhere that sells the filters.
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If it ain't broke ....
Well no, actually you were right. The manual says follow the procedure that both you and Macca said. Anyway, rules were made to be broken etc ... ;)
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If it ain't broke ....
I know, I know and that's what the manual says and all that, but my point is that it doesn't really matter when you're just pushing the clean fluid through before the final check/bleed.
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If it ain't broke ....
So it would appear. Next time I'll pop down and you can do it for me ! ;)
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If it ain't broke ....
Yup - forgot to mention that.
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If it ain't broke ....
That's only really for the final bleed, and in this case it's probably a good job that I didn't !
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If it ain't broke ....
... don't fix it ! Changed my brake fluid at the weekend, old stuff was probably the original and looked most unpleasant. Anyway, bled out the fronts, luverly jubbly no worries, then did the rears. No matter how much fluid I pushed through I got a steady stream of tiny bubbles appearing. Mucked about for a while wondering whether it was something to do with the bleed nipples on the rear calipers, then gave up and decided that all the additional work the master cylinder had just done has worn something out, broken something, dislodged some crap which had damaged something etc and was now drawing in air. So I took it for a drive and it seemed OK. Drove it again this morning and it is defintely not good. So now I have something else to fix !!! Anyway MJP came up trumps (as usual) with a master cylinder repair kit (~£40) which will be my first plan of attack, followed by a new master cylinder (~£160) if that doesn't solve it. I was tempted to re-bleed the fronts to see whether there was no air coming through them but there was a distinct risk of making them worse rather than better so I left (almost)well alone. Anyway, let that be a lesson to you all !! Happy days.
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Oil - Do we change too often?
Probably do change too often, but that's better than not often enough. Like someone said, it's peace of mind. If the oil is black and disgusting when it comes out then it's doing it's job. I justify my frequent (3000 miles) changes becuase I do mostly short journeys (~16 miles to work), if it was all motorway stuff then I would move the changes further apart. IMO I think it's best to use a fully synth because I reckon that the superiour properties at higher temps are more likely to resist gooing up the turbo shafts and wrecking the seals.
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Lampost 1 - MR2 0
Hmmm, her name is Lauren I believe, one of the IMOC clan. She can drive too, but this time it was about 50mph into a lampost, dunno what happened exactly ...
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rough accelleration
Well I reckon you should clean the throttle bodies once a year and I reckon the more knackered your turbos are then the more often you will have to do it ! I also found that just resetting the ECU (after cleaning the throttle bodies) made my car run very smoothly.
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o2 sensors
Its der big shiny bit on top of the engine. Engine is under the bonnet - the big shiny smooth bit which is in front of the clear thing you look through when driving .... (Sorry ;))
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o2 sensors
It's a chuck'em away job, they're cheap from Courtesy, just make sure you get the rubber pipes too. PCV's are located on the back of the plenum.
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Lampost 1 - MR2 0
Here's a bunch of reasons why you shouldn't drive MR2's into concrete lamp posts http://www.mr2.net/d644ymy/d644ymy_01.jpg http://www.mr2.net/d644ymy/d644ymy_02.jpg http://www.mr2.net/d644ymy/d644ymy_03.jpg http://www.mr2.net/d644ymy/d644ymy_04.jpg http://www.mr2.net/d644ymy/d644ymy_05.jpg http://www.mr2.net/d644ymy/d644ymy_06.jpg In case you're interested it is (was) a MkI supercharger model that I think was only intended for the US market.
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o2 sensors
The self diag will only confirm if they are actually broken or disconnected. What tends to happen is that they tend to get 'sticky' when they start to fail and report a lean signal more tyhan they should so the ECU tells the fuel system to compensate by making the car run richer which leads to high fuel consumption. Another possibility that I forgot to mention in your other post was the PCValves. They tend to either gum up, or the spings get weak, this can also affect fuel consumption.
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Heater blowing cold air
Sounds very much like an airlock problem to me.
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Bloody Hell.....
You should get close to 20mpg if the car is running right and being driven sensibly. Obviously lots of short journeys on cold mornings will make this worse. Anyway, it would be worth you resetting the ECU and double checking that you don't have a faulty oxygen sensor (or two!)
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Pics of my silver Z beast almost finished
Well this should be an interesting test of whether they have intrusion detection - multiple similtaneous logins from different sources. (And the site is pop-up 'effin central :mad:, and it brings the window to the top each time it's completed loading !!! :mad: :mad: )
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I've had a **** year! Today was the icing on the cake!
That's bad news Tim but it may not be as bad as you think. If it's staying in 1st then it's a changing rather than a drive problem. Typically when the boxes fail there is no drive whatsoever, so it does prove that at least some of it is working. Have you tried running the auto diags ? It could be an electrical connection problem with the control box, or even the control box itself (and I have a spare one of those!) Fingers crossed matey ....
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Anyone got fuel pump or stuff?!!
Yes please - I'll send you my address.
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Anyone got fuel pump or stuff?!!
Take a look at the links here :- http://www.300zx.org.uk/tech_06.htm
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Gumball Rally
At 01:20 this morning on Channel 4, for those of us who don't have to go to school tomorrow anyway ! LOL