AndyP

Yep, mine isn't too clever either - bloody manuals ! LOL :D

Anything ending in de is gonna be German ? Have you checked to see whether there is a link from Erics site http://www.300zx-twinturbo.com/ ?

Sorry not sure, maybe I just saw something that made it obvious which ones you should buy. I did some searches for the McGard ones, but you always seems to have to know the thread size and everything, don't know that of the top of my head tho.

With standard tyres -245/45ZR16 on 8.5J X 16 rims, the manual twin turbo (final drive ratio 3.69:1) the turbo achieves the following speeds: Gear MPH RPM 1st 43 7200 2nd 72 7200 3rd 107 7200 4th 139 7200 5th 155 6000 with speed limiter 5th 165 6400 without speed limiter 5th 186 7200 intermittent theoretical, rev limited The automatic ratios are: 1st 2.78, 2nd 1.54, 3rd 1.00, 4th 0.69, so results for the turbo are (Maximum, as actual speeds will depend on torque converter slip): Gear MPH RPM 1st 48 7200 Held in first 2nd 87 7200 Held in second 3rd 139 7200 Held in 3rd, overdrive off 4th 155 5500 with speed limiter 4th 178 6400 without speed limiter, not attainable by stock TT 4th 201 7200 intermittent theoretical, rev limited

I seem to remember AutoExpress reviewed locking wheel nuts by a company called Carflow which has now disappeard and according to a web search was bought by CQR Security. I just checked their web site (http://www.cqr.co.uk) but can find no mention of the wheel nuts. Just checked the AutoExpress web site and these weren't the best but there must have been some reason why I looked into it at the time, maybe because they were the only ones to fit a Zed ????

GSXR600 for a first bike - strewth !! Let's be careful out there ! ... and don't ride inn the wet for a while ... :eek:

What about DOT 4.1 which is allegedly compatible with DOT 3, DOT 4 and DOT 5.1 and exceeds both boiling points for 5.1 ?

Yup, fine with me.

Cheers Andy. I wasn't planning on mixing it as such but there will always be some residue when you put the new stuff in - I just want to make sure that it doesn't react and set like jelly or something ! BTW Could I use Guinness instead ? Stella gives me big headaches ! :D

Replaced my front discs & pads (x-drilled Brembos and EBC Greenstuff) on Saturday and now I also want to change the brake fluid. Can someone remind which is the best/most appropriate to use ? i.e. one which doesn't slurp up water, is compatible with the remnants of existing fluid (prob DOT 3) and won't eat the existing seals etc. Is it DOT 5.1 ? CheerZ

You need to get someone to confirm that the TT and NA parts are the same though ....

http://www.eatricezone.com/ I remember Phuong once saying that you could get stuff sent to him (he's in Pennsylvania) then he would repackage it and send it via the most cost effective method internationally. Would be nice if you bought something from him as well of course - because he is a top bloke !

Do we know whether the TT and NA ones are different ? May need to check the parts CD biut I don't have it with me right now. You would be well advised to try a known working one from someone else, 5 minute job if you have an aftermarket airfilter on each car, 5 hour if you dont ! ;) lol I have a spare TT one but Macca still has it at the moment :mad: (;) )

Phuong at GR Racing may help you out.

Well this is the problem with volume sales! Not sure of my facts here but isn't one of the current BMW's the best selling car in Europe or something like that ?

From the people who keep crashing them and the UK cars that are rusting away ! lol :D

It is still pn the drivers side on a RHD car. From memory you have to remove the panel into which the fuse box cover is fitted and the relay is further back towards the door jam. It's usually bright green.

Just email me your address.

Well just to throw the cat among the turkeys, I don't think that mine is that fast either, but there again I've been driving it for 4 years and I guess I've got used to it, plus I've always had quick bikes so I know what 'fast' means. Been in TVR's, Porsches, Lambos, Lotus etc and whilst each can be quick under the right conditions they don't scare me. The only one that came close was a Viper and that was due to the handling not the power ! The only one that I really dream about is a good Cerbera, one day ... one day ....

Sorry, dunno, my mates Toad doesn't seem to be bothered as long as it's not armed but my alarm (not a Toad) has a complete fit !

To reset the ECU all you need to do is disconnect the battery for about 30 mins. In order to adjust the idle you need to remove the electrical connector on the AAC valve and it's bloody fiddly to get to. Otherwise it will be automatically compensating for the changes you're making. What you are actually doing is setting the base idle which is below that which would normally be used. The ECU, via the AAC then sets it to it's preset level.

I use brake cleaner, seems to work fine. Carb cleaner would also do and even WD40 at a push.

Yes, resetting the ECU when you have fiddled with anything is usually a good idea. The AAC/FICD is on the rear LHS of the engine (ie in fromt of the passenger) and is barely visible underneath all the wire and vacumn pipes etc

I have the same problem at the moment and after some fiddling this afternoon I have come to the conclusion that I have a sticky AAC valve - there seems to be no other sensible option. Anyway, as I said before, take a look through the tech section of http://www.z-car.net - all the answers you need will be there.

It's not for sale as it's a broken one that I've fixed and I have no confidence that it will last.