AndyP

Try http://www.lifesure.co.uk if your 30+, mine is under £400 for an Import !

Well you should only need one, most head units will expect the telescopic to be connected, but I know some people use just the window jobbie.

I'd say that you should do the job once, properly and then forget about it. Beats having to take it out again in a few months or it packing up in the middle or nowhere !

One goes to the telescopic aerial and the other to the one built into the rear screen, just above the heating element.

I think it was on Stuarts car repair diary of a couple of weeks back. Towards the end we got on to the pssshh noise that he now gets when opening the tank, now that his filler neck is fixed.

You say they checked the caliper, have they proven that the pistons are not seized ?

Only the pink bits ! ROFL :D

Perhaps you'd like to take the old ones and see if you can make him look like The Joker by wedging one in his mouth sideways ! LOL :D

Just hold a Tupperware party and then fit all the leftovers afterwards !! LOL :D

That's when the ignition is off, but they could be automatically energised when the ignition is turned on. May do a bit of research at the weekend ...

And obviously I read that, but it does not 100% clarify whether it fails open or closed. But I will find out ....

As you could see it was past my bedtime and I couldn't be arsed to reiterate what I'd already written, had indicated in the linked manual page and was discussed with concensus on a recent post. Anyway, what sort of emissions control system would spew out the emissions it was trying to contain when you open the filler cap ? ;)

Try here :- http://www.spark-plugs.co.uk

That would depend on whether the solenoid operates in the normally ON, or normally OFF mode - it's not clear from the manual, but my symptoms would indicate normally ON. Time and experimentation may tell ...

Maybe they'd cancel each other out by hassling each other, then you could go to the pub in peace, knowing that they're safe, not left alone etc ! :D

Sounds a bit like a problem wth the airflow sensor. Suggest you run the ECU diags first to see if that gives any clues. Useful links here :- http://www.300zx.org.uk/diagnostics.htm

Dunno, measure what you have and buy larger|smaller|same as appropriate. I think I may have 21" on mine, but I don't have a tape measure with me to check.

As you know I didn't do it, but when we looked under the car recently the wires have been bridged and the switch is not connected.

Blimey, that's like having, erm, well, say three engines blow up ! LOL :D

Yes they do, from memory it's towards the back of the box on the drivers side. And it sounds like your symptoms are similar to mine.

I know nothing about the guts of an auto box, but if you are still using the rubbishy OEM cooler built into the rad then it would make a lot of sense to fit an aftermaket one at this point. Need not be very expensive and would save trying to clean the old one, which is probably blocked with debris anyway.

John, I have been thinking about this and in the manual it is unclear at exactly which point the VTC is triggered and lists a number of inputs that at first appear to affect the enabling of the function. After further thought I and having read the following by Devin (ZfromJapan@tt.net) :- 79F6 - VTC Release This is the Valve Timing Control Release. One of the nice features of our engine is the VTC which advances the timing on the intake cam. One of the down sides to stand alone ECU's is that this great feature is lost. Only a hand full of stand alone ECU's have the ability to use the VTC, one of which is the $2500+ Electromotive Tec 3. The stock value for 79F6 is 76hex. 76hex is 118dec, times 50, equals 5900rpms. This is the point where the ECU ends the advancement of the intake cam and the valve overlap. The advanced tuning of this one little value is almost an art. The very high end tuners are very secretive about what value they use here, and what I know about it, I promised not to talk about. I suppose there are a few cam experts floating around tt.net that may be able to take this info and run with it. On the 300Z.bin code I lowered the VTC Release to 62hex which equals 4900rpms. ... I am convinced that you are correct in what you said, (give or take a few hundred rpm, but that will probably vary from model to model) but in my opinion there are a number of factors that have to be taken into consideration and these are that signals from the following sensors must be within a predefined range, and they are :- MAS, TPS, RPM, Temp, and Neutral position sensor. The last is the most interesting of all for me, because since my auto/manual conversion I know that my neutral switch has been Donald Ducked and the ECU thinks the car is permanently in neutral. Therefore, this explains where my top end torque/power has disappeared to on my last dyno run. EUREKA !!!!! Now I am certain that getting the netutral switch fixed will get me back the 30bhp I've lost and make my cruise control work again - hurrah ! :D

RTFM

I'm not sure that the VTC is activated at a specific speed, there will be a number of factors involved that affect it's operation - I expect there is an entire map in the ECU. However, the manual section describing it starts here, if that's any use :- http://www.300zx.co.uk/tech/manual/manual/efec/029.gif

Yes, it is a vacuum in the tank, we have discussed this before - that's why the filler cap has a vacuum relief valve. It's all to do with the emission control system for the fuel vapour in the tank.