jap.slapper

We've got one, I put it on the wall in the kitchen about 2 years ago....it worked great....then we unplugged it (about 2 years ago) and it hasn't been switched on since :blink:

"What do you mean I've got a hole in the floor, and no headlights, no horn, no seatbelts and the exhaust has fallen off......it's alright....it's a classic?"

Cheers mate, the alignment guy did mention that last week when I picked it up

All sorted now... 1/2 degree of negative camber on the rear and just about to lower it by another 25mm (it's on bricks at the moment)

If you stop by when you're back you can take a look at what's already fitted to Monster's old heads. He spent a fortune on having it all done at Whifbitz so they may even be oversized valves that are fitted. I wouldn't have a clue to be honest as I've only got the Ztech heads as a reference. The Cam pulleys also look like AMS rather than the OEM that are on the Ztech heads. I need to get it all put together and run in because I reckon I'll kill the lump that's currently fitted, by the end of the Summer

Cheers mate, as long as it makes a fairly reliable 450-500 I'd be happy with that

Thanks

That's bad luck mate...those 'pot holes' are a bitch :wink:

What's ASG?

Would that be a reliable 500rwhp figure or at the fly mate? Sorry Mark, not intending to hijack your thread but I'd be interested to see what you anticipate is achievable with the following On my bench and stand at the moment: SE Ported/Polished heads (from 'Monsters' 600bhp Whifbitz zed) SE cams & pulleys & valves (as above) Carrillo rods Arias oversized pistons Polished OEM crank Nismo 740cc injectors 300 degree fuel rail ACL bearings ARP bolts Garrett GT675 RS tubs AMS mani's and gaskets Unorthodox Racing lower pulley 4 piece set Carbonetic triple plate clutch and flywheel HKS elbows Blitz + custom decat/titanium wrapped exhaust Carbon 1 piece prop AEM EMS (mapped by Greg @ Protuner) AEM MAP sensor Greddy 3 row fmic Twin HKS intakes ARC bovs Blitz AFR (1st bank) + APEXi AFR (2nd bank) Dragon Performance grounding kit New oil & water pump Nismo thermstat Polished plenum/water pipes *I've been advised by Greg to upgrade the fuel pump and fuel filter (I assume that a single Bosch 044 would be sufficient for 500rwhp and have looked at Aeromotive filters?) and have also been advised to invest in an intake temp sensor before attempting to MAP it **Cooling sorted by ARC oil cooler/Koyo Rad/Greddy expansion tank/accusump/vented CF bonnet & vented CF front panel*

This'll be one for the extreme zed lickers on the forum....mines not pretty enough

go buy a Skyline mate :tongue_smilie:

ah that's where the confusion is...the US company is Plastidip whereas the UK based company is Pastie-dip....very similar in name but the Cornish company's product has been developed to ensure that their pastie coated products don't peel.....and if you've experienced a UK company's product peeling...well that must have been a poor copy Ginster's product!

In Newport on a Friday night, half a pint of Stella will usually bag you a trout for the night!

Cheers mate, yeah the ABS unit shown in the diagram is the same as the old one that I've got in the garage off my old LWB TT. The ABS unit on the shortie is different and the pipework locations are different. I'll work it out I'm sur ebut maybe the NA master cylinder would be the other option

Yet another old thread raised from the dead but I'm looking at options for the best way to delete the ABS in order to plumb in my hydro (and pulling the fuse/putting ABS on a switch is not an option). I can't find any technical info on the layout of the ABS (piping at this point ^^^^^) on a SWB TT, there are no markings/indications on it. In order to ensure that the hydro and ABS don't fight against each other, I'm looking at connecting the hard lines and running a T piece 'pre' rear connection pipe with a brake bias at the mid way point. The statement above about swapping the TT master cylinder for an NA master cylinder confused me slightly, would this be necessary (just going by the fact that the 'S' body ABS can be removed simply by connecting the pipework)? If anybody has a diagram indicating which pipe is which, that would be very useful

What a ****!

I suppose a lot depends on what you want to spend mate. Here are some cheaper second hand options. Some of the designs are a bit marmite, some sizes are just plain madness (15j with ET -5) but some are pretty tidy and Dino Bekris is a top bloke who'll help you find what you're looking for http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&frm=1&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CEoQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.japandyno.com%2F&ei=IBK2T7_-M4Wq8AO05sGlCg&usg=AFQjCNEZeaQzJDaOXycyKXbgqgnXTpB1YA&sig2=TqLFVGbS_13MKggvc4tkfg also, Driftworks is a good place to pick up some nice deep dish rimmage, some pretty rare, some in need of re-furb but I think you'll find something that you like on there http://www.driftworks.com/forum/wheels-tyres-sale-private-sales/

If it came to it, I'm sure it would be easy enough for a decent fabrication place to make one up

http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&frm=1&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CIkBEBYwAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.yell.com%2Fs%2Fcar%2Bengine%2Btuning%2Band%2Bconversion-middlesbrough.html&ei=gi-0T7uWGoi-8APbv80U&usg=AFQjCNGgXJfNTJsTT0uRSyvaRYutMscNHA&sig2=6MzL8gRbDt1NHPdaxVkqkg

Do you actually need it though mate?

Focker?!?

Old thread but this explains a lot, we didn't bleed the ABS hence soft pedal. Does anybody have pics of where the ABS bleed nipples are on a SWB TT? The unit is different to that of the LWB (not that I know where they are on a LWB anyway)

Is it not this one?

Does he not fancy the Scooby stand then?