turbocraigy

Snap!

When you say only does it with air con on, do you mean if its on Econ mode (i.e air con off) and your have you fan on for standard air circulation the noise stops? Behind the glove box is the blower fan, but surely that would squeel regardless of air con on or off if the fan switch is operated.

Exactly!

Econ mode is simply ECONOMY mode (air con off) hence better fuel economy, less engine load. You do have econ mode in a sense. That is your air con OFF button. All econ mode does is keep the compressor off-line and the cold air is basically only as cold as the outside air. If you were to change your coolant, all you would do when filling is make sure you air con is off (ECONomy) and turn you heat dial to max. This allows the whole system to fill properly. Thats why the air con topic was raised.

I went to view a car described as in mint condtion to arrive and find it in a right state. The bloke then said well its in mint condition for its age! What a load of *****cks, if something is described as mint, it should be mint. Age should have no bearing when describing condition, it is what it is.

Yes they can by all accounts, but it is just as, if not more painful!

Just updating this thread....... I've had an annoying slight front wheel wobble at around 70mph and under light braking at speed. Brand new K-Sport brake upgrade fitted so not warped disc, new tyres perfectly balanced. Searched on here for possible causes. Have recently fitted new rack bushes, ARB bushes, droplinks new springs/shocks & associated rubbers. To the point, my tensions rod bushes looked absolutely fine, but I have changed them anyway with new OEM ones. Took the rods to my local garage, charged me £10 to press in new ones. Refitted and tested. The wheel wobble has gone!:thumbup: So, even though the old ones hadn't split, just had some slight perishing they were probably tired and allowing slightly too much movement. They really did look OK, but obviously not as the problem is solved and I've done around 100miles now. Removing the rods was easy - 3 bolts. The big bush bolt is tight to get in and out, but not too bad. I'm no mechanic, I only have basic tools.

Probably very good, but reading the description they are rebuilt injectors as apposed to the Nismo 555's which are completely as new. This is why they seem cheap.

What did you do then? Bit of brute force and ignorance? Also does the car need to be on its wheels when installing these or is it ok to fit them with the wheel off and jacked up? Cheers...

Did the brake hoses with your kit have 2 line lock locators? And are they metal or just rubber grommet type things? My hoses had a single grommet type fixing and not really suitable. Was concerned an MOT tester might fail it in this area. Like I said, used my original braided hoses and the rest of the kit is spot on! Paid through the nose for the Ferodo pads £200!! But worth it:) The picture shows the original braided hose I used and a proper metal line lock locator which there are 2 of along the hose and then 2 at the ends. Makes a nice secure, neat job. The one rubber grommet was just no good. Pulled through real easy.

Is this job as easy as it looks?? Other than pressing the old bushes out and new bushes in are there any problems doing this jobs. 3 bolts per side? Any advise gratefully received!:)

The original hose has 3 points of fixing to the car to keep in shape and safe. My 'old' braided hose came with 3 points of fixing to the car in the original place. The hoses that came with this kit came with only 1 point of fixing and a poor one at that - a grommet like rubber. The kit did come with some other universal bracket things, but believe me, it was much better to use my 'old' braided hose and adapt the caliper connection. Neater, safer and more OEM. Rest of the kit is brilliant and after a good drive today, I can report the brakes are 1000% better! Sharper initial bite and just generally much stronger. Even had the tyres locking in the bone dry and they are top rubber brand new yesterday! And this wasn't under maximum pedal pressure!

Spent the afternoon fitting the K-Sport 330mm front kit with DS2500 pads. Just thought I'd pop my thoughts down to help anyone considering them. The kit is absolutely top notch. The calipers and discs are top draw stuff! The brackets are very very well made and I have NO concerns over strength. The pads are so easy to fit, the bolts etc all spot on. Instructions are typically poor, but the job is very easy to figure out. Small let down in the shape of the supplied hoses. Only one line lock and made of rubber only, like a grommet. Couldn't or wouldn't get on with those so used my old braided hoses and adapted the caliper connection. Absolutely no need to remove the old disc guards, they bend back so easy and only a slight bend is required. Test driving immediately showing an improvement, but no real heavy braking done yet, but those Ferodo DS2500 are NOT squealing even slightly, I know many people have said they do, that said I smeared a covering of aluminum brake paste on the back of the pads (there are no anti squeal plates) My old calipers used to creak like mad, obviously this has gone!! I was going to buy some 2nd hand Brembos, so glad I didn't. Really good fitting brand new gear and not having to mess refurbing 15-20year old brakes. And by the time you factor in new discs, pads and refurb kit for them the price isn't too short of one of these kits. Money well spent:) Thanks to Dan at DTA for supplying the goods.:duffer: Added some photos comparing the OEM stuff with the K-sport gear. Look at the pad difference!

The reason why the light comes on when cold is because the fluid has contracted to its smallest volume. This then triggers the low level sensor if geniunely low. When car is started, steering used, fluid gets hot, expands and level increases a bit, enough to untrigger the level sensor. You probably have a small leak I'm afraid.

Good question that! I don't know because I already fitted UK spec clocks before changing the ECU. With just the UK clocks the range is still 30-68mph. Maybe worth just swapping the ECU 1st because you can pick them up for around £15. Only thing to watch out for is getting the right replacement box. There are 2 types, a 89-92 Ecu & a 93+ One is a 16pin connection, the other is a 20pin connection, the latter is the later box. UK clocks can sell for around £75-100!!

The wrong reason to sell it. If you don't like it anymore or just fancy a change then fair enough. But your age should not come into it unless its a physical/health issue.

^^^ Great minds! I had to do this on my old car. And on 3 out of 4 as well. Worked a treat.

The brake pedal light switch also cancels the cruise as a fail safe, but you would no if that one was faulty because your brake lights will be iffy. If one just needs adjusting, sometimes you can tell by pulling the brake pedal upwards when at cruise speed to see if that sets. Remember if manual car there is one on clutch pedal as well. I think they are in series. Also did you know that CC only works between 30-68mph on Jap spec cars?? cos if not and you are trying to set outside that range nothing will happen. I swapped my Jap spec CC ecu for a UK spec ecu to increase the range (30-105mph!) Keep us posted and let us know when you've solved the problem. Its always nice to see a solution to peoples problems and helps future searches as well. :)

It could also be the switch on the back of the brake pedal or clutch pedal (if applicable). These switches act as a cruise cancel for obvious reasons, but if slightly out of adjustment or faulty, they stop cruise from being set. You will still get one cruise light on when you press the pod button, but the 2nd cruise light only lights when set is successful. Remember the brake pedal has 2 switches. The other is the actual brake light switch. My cruise cancel switch was broken on the brake pedal and so it wouldn't set. £35 for a new one, easy, but fiddly change, job sorted.

Apparently there is no difference in weather resistance between the UK and Jap specs. So, if you have a geniunely clean rot free UK Zed you're doing well. I'd get the underside drenched in a spray on Waxoyl type product. And yes a cover will definately help protect the car from the elements if you can't garage it.

Believe me mate, I had a go at modifying the original ECU and it is just to fiddly. You would probably damage the board having a go and if you were to send it to a professional it would cost more than buying a UK spec ECU. Trust me - don't bother trying to convert it. Place a request in the wanted section. They are a few people breaking cars for spares.

Please read one of my earlier threads.....should help. http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=132412 :)

The hub on the Nissan is 66.1 so you just need to measure the wheel. Take one of your other wheels off and look at the spigot ring adaptor. Generally in small writing the inner diameter and outer diameter is printed. For example my spigot adaptors are 66.1 to 73.1mm

I would get a new spigot ring sorted for the wheel with one missing. This could well be the problem. It would be very hard to mount the wheel spot on with out one and any slight variance will behave like an out of balance wheel giving vibration at speed. They are pennys from Ebay.

The best car was made in 1993!! :whistling: I think many of us on here have had similar dilemmas. I have. One of my tubs is failing and so to fix it properly is a very costly sum. BUT, I have already invested heavily in the car with both money and sweat so to scrap the car because its tubs are knackered is also foolish. So I will be spending around £3k before long changing the tubs and doing some other work while the engine is out. And this doesn't matter as long as I keep the car for quite some time.. Depends very much on your outlook and feelings toward the car. Ultimately, you can spend a lot on a new large Alfa / Vauxhall / French car and many others and immediatley loose £10k in a year, sometimes more in depreciation.