AndrewG

Headlamp/Washer circuit diagram: Headlamp washer relay shown as E42 with location: Diode pack shown as M14 with location:

Yes, there is a lot of useful information in this thread: http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?t=290506 page 4 has these links: List of the ECU address's of different sensors etc: http://www.plmsdevelopments.com/images_ms/Generic_Nissan_ECU_Sensor_or_Data_register_table_Ver_2.pdf Interface information: http://www.plmsdevelopments.com/images_ms/Consult_Protocol_&_Commands_Issue_6.pdf I also have the source code of the Empeg Consult written in C which runs on an Empeg player and uses the players serial port to talk to the ECU. I can email you a copy if you like. -Andrew

A good DMM will test for voltage, current and resistance, three functions you need when trying to diagnose a problem. -Andrew

No, it won't. Goose honk is always there. It just becomes more noticeable as you take off things like the standard air filter box to fit a single aftermarket air filter and then go to a dual filter setup which removes the T piece. You can get rid of it with one of these: http://bde-performance.com/goose.htm -Andrew

The download option is the free 'limited functionality" version not the one above which costs 139 EUR. -Andrew

There are two full versions of Conzult, one which uses their own cable and the one above.

There is also a full version of Conzult which will work with 3rd party cables. Scroll down to the bottom of the FAQ: http://300zx-twinturbo.com/conzult/faq.htm -Andrew

How about this way...

I'll come along to this event. Missed last year's which I regretted. -Andrew

You could also try this of course, it has been known to work! 私のホバークラフトはウナギでいっぱいです

Terry, try sending your message in plain English. Most Japanese can read better than they speak it. -Andrew

My post was for a different (and faster) car...

Better.... The car: http://www.specialtyz.com/sz-z32.php

I've used this product before with success: http://www.frost.co.uk/frost-ali-clean-alloy-wheel-cleaner.html I masked off the electrical connectors etc around the plenum and followed the instructions. For rinsing off, I used a water hose set to *very* slow flow (no more than a dribble). Then run the engine to dry off. Didn't have any problems. Plenum came up very clean and bright. -Andrew

That is good news! Roll on for bit of warm and sunny weather and we could organise a meet and run. Remember the old Box Hill to Brighton runs? -Andrew

Different oils for different jobs. Redline has a good reputation - MT-90 Gearbox Oil and 75W90 Differential Oil. Both are fully synthetic. Also make sure your gear leaver dust boot is fully seated. It can become detached and allow gearbox noise into the cabin usually in 2nd and 4th. Items 2 and 11 in diagram: http://nissan4u.com/parts/300zx/el_z32/1992_2/type_1/power_train/transmission_control_and_linkage/ -Andrew

I agree with Steve Burns, and I would go further and ask why has that post been allowed to remain? - it clearly breaks the AUP.

It is?, the GTZ lip doesn't have that dip in the middle section of the lip. -Andrew

Might be worth considering the Whiteline bushes: http://whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=W92446 This chap on TT.net made the following observation re NVH going from stock to WL: http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/general/view/2507176/I-installed-whiteline-subframe-bushings-for-a-customer.html -Andrew

Look again, post #2 - first link... -Andrew

Yes, look at your other thread on this topic... -Andrew

Complete 3" Turbo Inlet Kit for GTX series turbochargers -Andrew

I came across a reference when searching to someone relocating the launch button itself onto their dash, so I figured to do that they must have taken the control unit apart and might have posted a picture... Google --> racelogic control launch button --> and look in Images (scroll down a bit) -Andrew

Here you go (post #19 and on): http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?134803-RLTC-Slip-Launch-control-box-query -Andrew