AndrewG

As per the Aus quide above, don't forget to slot the two inboard rear bolts. It makes life *a lot" easier to do the job next time.

Thanks for your help with the speaker enclosures Terry. Having seen your car today all I can say is that she is much to nice to be hiding away! Look foward seeing her finished and out to play in the new year.

That will be your room lamp relay. Controls the interior lamp above your head. Circuit diagrams attached showing wire colours (el-38) and diagnosis (el-53). el-38.pdf el-53.pdf

I don't think anyone would suggest that worn parts are reused in any rebuild. If a part is worn then obviously replace it, and then you have the choice of fitting stock or aftermarket. It all depends on your own goals, but if the engine is sound (within specs) then isn't it nice to know that you don't need to "over spec" given that the stock engine is already "over spec'd" from the factory for quite sizeable increases in reliable power with the correct tuning?

Why do say that?

Welcome to the party! I would change your location "142 London Road" to something less specific.

You have checked that the balance control is not set fully to the left channel?

This picture shows the black earth lead connected to the H3 bulb mounting baseplate, the other end of which goes to the low beam harness ground connection. The flying lead on the H3 bulb goes to the +12v supply low beam harness connection.

The headlight baseplate is electrically isolated from the cars earth. OEM should have a short length of "earth" wire fixed to the headlight baseplate to connect too.

14463-40P20 and 14463-40P21. http://nissan4u.com/parts/300zx/el_z32/1991_1/type_1/engine_mechanical/turbo_charger/illustration_3/ I would have though you could get those off a breaker. They should be OK s/h as they are away from the engine bay heat. I can't be sure, but I think the bolts are the standard Nissan hex head 6mm of the type used all over the car.

Just in case you are not already aware of this guide to diagnose boot leaks: http://www.thumper300zx.com/z32/boostleaks/boost_leak_guide.htm The guide includes a companion list of devices or hoses attached to the intake manifold: http://www.thumper300zx.com/z32/boostleaks/vacuum_hose_guide.htm

Was there any damage to the pistons?

What is the VIN code on the vehicle?

Where did you read that? Disconnecting and reconnecting the battery doesn't clear the error codes. Take a look at this guide to ECU Diagnostics (which includes error code 11). You may have cleared the fault with a replacement CAS, but the code will continue to be displayed until the ECU is properly cleared. http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/main/view/1105629/The-Ultimate-Guide-to-ECU-Diagnostics.html How to clear error codes is at the end of the guide. If you can get access to a PC based ECU diagnostics tool the whole diagnostics process is a lot easier.

Has the code 11 cleared with the new CAS? What do you mean by "no fan on ignition"?

badum tshhhh... http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?173325-whats-involved&p=1777704&viewfull=1#post1777704

I'm after a pair of BOSE factory 2+2 rear speaker enclosures for a project. Must be in good condition with their mounting tags intact. The original speakers and internal amps are not important.

Well got up at 2am, very cold. Despite being clear skies only saw a few in the 20 mins I could stand the freezing temps for. Maybe there is too much light pollution here. Never mind, made the effort.

Clear skies here in Surrey forecast. Fingers crossed for peak display at 2am. Should be impressive!

Best wishes on your Birthday!

The most important elements out of the full 120K service kits are the cambelt and the tensioner. If you want to keep the car on the road next summer, then check the other cambelt pulleys and water pump for bearing condition and the water pump for coolant leaks. If they are good then you could as an interim measure just do the cambelt and the tensioner with OEM parts. That would at a minimum keep things safe until you do the rebuild (assuming you are not going to put a lot of miles on the engine). Also the coolant bypass hoses (part #14055-F6511) are normally replaced as part of a cambelt service.

Why do you need the full kit (beyond cambelt and tensioner)? How many miles on the engine?

This is the stock UK spec colour - Tempest Grey Graphite Pearl (KL1). Hi res is here (right click on drop box image): https://www.dropbox.com/s/ptwoljrwny7xzsg/DSCF0111.JPG?dl=0

Best wishes on your Birthday Steve!

I mounted each ballast in the space left under L&R headlight buckets after the OEM air filter ducts were removed. Out of the way of engine heat and dry. The arrow points to the area (photo is not mine).