AndrewG

The reason why LEDs will stay on when simply substituted for a filament lamp in a "low fuel circuit" is as follows. Most LEDs have a forward voltage drop of around 1.2V and a current flow of around 10mA to light up. When supplying 12V to them you need to include and additional resistor to drop the 12V down to 1.2V and limit the current to 10mA. Using ohms law the value of that additional resistor can be calculated as R = V/I where R is the resistor, V is voltage and I is current. So to get 10.8V drop at 10mA we need a resistor of 1080 ohms. This is almost the same value as the thermistors used in the "low fuel circuits" when submerged in fuel - 1 to 1.5K ohms - so the LED will light up.

Yes, looking at your photo you still have the badge backing in place. When removed (it pops out) you will see this:

If you decide to stay with the OEM badge then I have one you can have. Alternatively you can go for an GZA aftermarket badge in Red (or Black) and available from US suppliers.

What are your plans for the centre 'Z' emblem?

Great fix Andy. What was the replacement thermistor part number? Essentially the circuit works by supplying +12v (whilst the ignition is on) to the bulb which then grounds through the thermistor. Current passes through the circuit and is limited by the resistance of the thermistor which varies with temperature. When the thermistor is exposed it is no longer cooled by the fuel and heats up dropping it's resistance to almost zero ohms, inreasing the current in the circuit and the lamp comes on. When submerged the thermistor is cooled by the fuel and it's resistance increases limiting the current flow to the point that the bulb turns off.

*** SOLD *** Pair of MSP manifolds. Please note that some material has been ground away on one of the manifolds (arrowed). The wall thickness is 3mm at the thinnest point. Also arrowed is where one of the heat shield lugs has been ground away. Otherwise they are in good condition. I don't have the fitting kit items. £250 including P&P to UK addresses. Priced to sell - no offers please.

UK spec in Blue. http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?186302-Car-of-The-Year-2016-entries-!!&p=1938227&viewfull=1#post1938227 M25 Surrey area.

Welcome back! Still selling s/h parts?

You got the link for that?

Do you happen to know which Toad model is fitted?

Firstly, have you replaced the battery in the fob? Do you have a spare fob to try?

So what was the problem?

I case you don't have them, here are the '96 FSM pages to help trace the problem. They are easier to read than earlier versions. EL-131-136.pdf

UK cars were protected by the factory to the same degree as JDM for corrosion resistance.

Welcome to the Club Joe. Lovely looking car and in my favourite colour! You can change out the dash from a breaker to get rid of that hole. I know I would.

Quite, a bit more of this wouldn't go amiss!

Definitely cambelt and tensioner change as part of full service. Also flush and replace engine coolant.

Better pics here (I prefer the original "vanilla" version though): http://blog.livedoor.jp/lucifer2012-005/archives/43066940.html

Depends on how you frame "intermittent" - the OP does state that "Every now again it runs on 5" and "The dropped cylinder is moving". Not discounting your suggestions, rather giving other things to check and eliminate as causing the problem.

Have you checked your PTU connections for damage/corrosion? Same for injector connectors. Are you running an early style PTU which can fail giving similar conditions to the one you describe?

Best wishes on your Birthday Tom!

Debut pictures from the '91 Toyko Motor show.

I found I needed new clips when I replaced mine: 65832-F5000 or 65846-30F00 (Qty 19).

No - I really do need to pull my finger out and get it done!

What are we to do?