AndrewG

Just so you know for the future, they are one and the same company - Endon Services.

Have you tried these folks? http://www.allcarpartsfast.co.uk

The retainer is actually three separate parts (13, 15 and 17) in diagram below with their part #'s listed in the link here: http://nissan4u.com/parts/300zx/el_z32/1990_1/type_1/brake/rear_brake_and_parking_brake_control/illustration_3/ Try Mike@MJP (trader on here) or http://www.allcarpartsfast.co.uk (they do Nissan parts to your door).

Not yours - his!

What make/model is it?

Dave you changed out your radiator cross member, compared to that installing 2.5" pipework and ICs is straighforward if fiddly! Any of the 2.5" piping kits are a tight fit (particularily if you have an aftermarket larger radiator). This post gives some tips: http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/technical/view/1115348/VTF-25-Intercooler-Piping-Install-Tips-Trick-amp-Hints.html AshSpec piping has mounting tabs to stock fixing locations. I'm not sure about Z1. It is so tight that there is little room for anything to move about. Larger intercoolers are also a tight fit. You can lose the CC or replace with a smaller one ( Skyline GTST) moved to a new location. The modifications to the recircs are straightforward: http://twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/general/view/2483641/Pics.html with Ashspec planar inlet piping: http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/general/view/2491225/Recirc-plumbing-with-ashspec-planar-mounts.html Frame rails typically need cutting back to make clearance for IC pipework and/or couplings. Modifications to lights are required to clear front of ICs, but the process is well documented (in the Z1 installation instructions for example).

Check the connector terminals (male and female) for corrosion. Any resistance between the pins with the high current demanded by the fan will cause the connector to heat up. The wires heating up will be the copper taking excess heat away from the connector.

Are you talking about the same fan here? One is mechanically powered (viscous coupling), the other electric.

What is the thing sticking out of the top vent?

Do you know why?

A simple "odd sounding" idea that works - thanks for posting.

Information from Greg@SZ on the 740cc pintle less injectors: http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/main/view/1100871/Re-740cc-and-stock-boost.html Pintle less injectors are much more controllable (even large ones like 740cc) particularly at idle compared to pintle ones of the same flow rate.

OEM bolts are not TTY. This information/debate may be of use: http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?t=322698

May I ask why you are replacing them?

Opinions herein (SZ recommend OEM): http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/general/view/2081396/Is-Nismo-Pilot-Bushing---Needle-Bearing-an-upgrade-.html

Your alarm only has one +12v flash output signal?

What a clever idea! [video=youtube;-sL9jQcRZek]

Information herein: http://www.twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.aspx?forum=technical&msg_id=922136 and a JWT tool made for the job: http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/customer_part_detail.asp?PartID=521

Best wishes on your Birthday Dave!

Yes, at least normally. I've posted pics of the SZ 2.5" supersplits here: https://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?187498-Help-Part-measurements-anyone&p=1952767&viewfull=1#post1952767

These are the tube dimensions for the 2.5" SZ supersplits. The inner bore dimension is a function of the tube wall thickness.

Howard replaced the ABS with the broken nipple (and stud extractor) with another ABS unit which also has a weeping nipple!

What a b****y mess!

Interesting, if you take a look at the SZ page for exhausts you can see that 2.25" is for NAs, and 2.5" (and then 3") for TTs: http://specialtyz.com/shop/300zx.html?cat=7 These are outside diameter measurements.