AndrewG

If by that you mean an OEM ECU with a Blitz EPROM (and mapping) and Blitz stickers on the box then Blitz maps are typically pretty agressive and designed for high octane Japanese fuel (100 octane).

Alternatively you could ride shotgun in mine.

Welcome to the Club Adam! A UK Spec car if I'm not mistaken.

Nismo 555s are pintle injectors. If you want pintle less injectors you will need to go for the Nismo/Tomei/HKS 740cc type. The 615cc pintle less injectors have been largely been superseded by the 740cc types for Z32 applications but are still available from some vendors.

Yes, Hubert (Hub280ZX) gave an explanation here on JDM vs UK/Euro specs: https://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?173162-Back-in-the-UK-for-short-period-to-liquidat-RE-my-High-Spec-300zx-Todays-Values&p=1777133&viewfull=1#post1777133

Sure. As Joel has pointed out 555s have old style connectors.

In France.

I have but they need to be cleaned and flow tested before I sell them on.

The GT 636 includes a two circuit immobiliser. The picture below is a (poor) copy of the fitting instructions in english. You can see that a fuel pump relay "cut" is shown (circled in red).

This may be of help: http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/general/view/2257023/good-luck-getting-a-answer-here-lol.html

To help you trace the fault I've attached the full ECCS diagram (in colour). The fuel pump circuit is on the right. This is a hi-res image so use "view image" or similar to see in 4167×1760. When you say you removed the alarm/immobilizer what did you do to restore the circuit(s) "cut" by it? Depending on make/model, immobilizers often include the fuel pump circuit.

Why do you want to go smaller that stock 16"?

Much neater (and more secure) clamps than the old screw type. On order too.

Wonderful! Thanks for getting Yama San to sign it Simon. Can't wait to see it back in situ - very OEM+

Just so you know for the future, they are one and the same company - Endon Services.

Have you tried these folks? http://www.allcarpartsfast.co.uk

The retainer is actually three separate parts (13, 15 and 17) in diagram below with their part #'s listed in the link here: http://nissan4u.com/parts/300zx/el_z32/1990_1/type_1/brake/rear_brake_and_parking_brake_control/illustration_3/ Try Mike@MJP (trader on here) or http://www.allcarpartsfast.co.uk (they do Nissan parts to your door).

Not yours - his!

What make/model is it?

Dave you changed out your radiator cross member, compared to that installing 2.5" pipework and ICs is straighforward if fiddly! Any of the 2.5" piping kits are a tight fit (particularily if you have an aftermarket larger radiator). This post gives some tips: http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/technical/view/1115348/VTF-25-Intercooler-Piping-Install-Tips-Trick-amp-Hints.html AshSpec piping has mounting tabs to stock fixing locations. I'm not sure about Z1. It is so tight that there is little room for anything to move about. Larger intercoolers are also a tight fit. You can lose the CC or replace with a smaller one ( Skyline GTST) moved to a new location. The modifications to the recircs are straightforward: http://twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/general/view/2483641/Pics.html with Ashspec planar inlet piping: http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/general/view/2491225/Recirc-plumbing-with-ashspec-planar-mounts.html Frame rails typically need cutting back to make clearance for IC pipework and/or couplings. Modifications to lights are required to clear front of ICs, but the process is well documented (in the Z1 installation instructions for example).

Check the connector terminals (male and female) for corrosion. Any resistance between the pins with the high current demanded by the fan will cause the connector to heat up. The wires heating up will be the copper taking excess heat away from the connector.

Are you talking about the same fan here? One is mechanically powered (viscous coupling), the other electric.

What is the thing sticking out of the top vent?

Do you know why?