Tudor...

have ya tried half inch?

i spotted more zeds than yooouuu, nar narny nar nar :)

6 then, haha

does that include th 2 'zs' on the garage doors?

five! them other 2 are only half Z's :)

five

hahahaha

got a picture of the earth mod you did pal? glad to hear you sorted it matey...

have you tried swapping the spark plug for a known good one?

I would do the long drive no problems matey, but i'm washing my hair :(

yeah, the one in ya hand me thinks too, the loom to the dett. sensor is thicker with tape or summet round cos it has a braided wire loop for sheilding...

27, no claims/convictions, license since 19, but no NCB as i worked out of the country for 3 years and they took it off me, w*nkers, 92' TT import, can't get a quote below 3 grand, beat that one! Wounded...

yeah, what he said :) I've got a new EFI loom, so never thought of that...

might be of some help if the link woks mate, number '27'.... http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=2116&d=1070304545 I have re-located mine, also very easy, but seem to get the very occasional saftey boost at low revs, so gonna try and bypass it see if it makes any difference...

it's easier to replace it at the plug matey, i'll see if i can find you a picture, but or the right hand side, at the back of the plenum under the pass. side wiper ish, you'll see a few connectors, it's a grey one i think with 2 connections, one end goes to the right, the other dissapears down to the block, but there is a connector that is the same, that goes to the VVT solenoid i think, which one end has a white sleeving on, not that one... ya just bung your resistor in the plug that goes to the right (much better with a bit of wire on it, spade connectors and heatshrink over it) I think that's correct... then do a diagnostic, may have to remove your battery for an hour or so to reset the codes, and hey presto, no more code 34 (code 55 means nothing dodgy detected)... much info on here as regards diagnostics if ya search, hope this helps matey, dead easy job, although i did get the connectors the wrong way round when i re-fitted my engine, took me a month to find, haha...

mike at MJP, trader on here'll get em ya matey....

Thanks Jeff...

Just want to quadruple check this, have done a manual conversion some time ago, and set my timing to 25 BTDC, but just read somewhere it should be at 15-17 max?....

yep, do a diagnostic check, could be in safety mode, lower boost... have you got an aftermarket boost gauge?

i'm using one, with a sandwich plate, no probs at all, and it's at the bottom of the engine, so no issues with that... and that nut on it does make fitting/removing a doddle...

Reet then, is there a way of calibrating the tacho, it reads 500 rpm more than conzult, i know there is potentiometers on the back of the dial mech... I have a slight what feels like a missfire, but cant be sure, seems before it boosts, when you put a bit of a load on it at low revs, it's feels a little bit like it's running on 5, but running on them EXTREMELY well, if that makes sense, but then boost and smooth as silk, as is the tick over, i could be imagining it, could just be because it's a V, but i do get the odd obvious missfire, and strangely, everytime i check the plugs, seem to find a cracked one, and i know for a fact i'm not breaking any fitting them or removing them, bit weird... I have a pare set of coil packs, but it's not road legal yet, so can't test drive it much, could just change the 4 easy coilpacks and hope for the best, but would rather find the specific problem... No error codes and boosts a treat, apart from once, only seemed to get 9 psi, normally 14, but that was only a foot down 2nd gear few seconds of a job... I do have a spare series 1 PTU, but can't be sure that is healthy as i bought a replacement to cure a different missfire, which turned out to be the loom, and it now has a full brand new EFI loom... It does have a mines ECU, and was overfuelling lots due to both knackered O2 sensors, which have been replaced for second hand ones, which appear to be working fine on conzult, could the ECU be a factor? And I am only running it on normal fuel, a gallon at a time just for testing purposes... Also have replaced a couple of injectors that were faulty, new PCVs, 95% of hoses/pipes are new, recon turbos, and engine rebuild, re-bore, boost leak test seems fine, but seem to get a bit of a hiss of leaking air from inside the brake servo, is that normal? It works fine, doesn't seem to loose any pressure on the pedal, start the car and it goes down nice and bonny, engine off, then solid. Got good vacuum, but if that was leaking, would it cause this problem? Any thoughts guys? I think i have been pretty thorough, but if anything will help diagnose just ask us... Thanks in advance for even reading this essay! Tudor...

hahahahahahaha, well said mate, bend over, touch ya toes, they'll show you where the wild goose goes....

yeah, makes sense, as the water in the lower hose is from the arse end of the radiator, so would give you a cooler reading, and ya wanna know the hottest reading so ya know if owts going kaput!

Thanks a lot matey...

Does anyone know the internal diameter of the top radiator hose? Need to buy a jobby to fit my temp sensor to... cheers, tudor...