Tudor...

Yeah, replace (almost) all the bushings, fortunately I have access to a hydraulic press, I bought them from a club member ages ago, you can get them from MJP (Mr F.) in the traders section... I don't know of a walkthrough, but I basically stripped it down to every single component, and with several different wire brush attachments for my drill and angle grinder, removed any traces of rust/flaky paint, then painted it with lots of coats of black hammerite smooth, ideally I would've liked to have it all powder coated, but didn't have the funds, however, I am very pleased with it, you could eat your dinner off my subframe now :) Plus, I had to replace all the brake pipes, so the subframe being out helps massively, also I was undersealing the whole car, and it was great to be able to underseal above it. It is reasonably straight forward, just getting the hub nuts off can be a royal pain in the arse, I would suggest you crack them first before doing anything else! Also, someone to help is very handy, as the diff weighs a ton, I dropped the subrame with the diff still in, but when I fitted it back, I put the subframe in, then the diff.... Here's a few pics I took along the way... http://s935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/jefftudor/Subframe/

I have exactly the same problem, cheers Jeff, it is a bit confusing as you said, as the nuts are tight...

They are all plastic mate (well OEM are). Very common problem that, I had mine snap too, luckily came across a brand new boxed OEM radiator for 50 quid :)

No need to remove the engine at all, it's reasonably easy, if you are mechanically minded, the only awkward bit is getting to the top bolts on the bell housing, you'll need a 3 foot ratchet extension, there is walkthroughs in the FAQ section, but after you have removed the exhaust, propshaft etc. it is pretty straight forward, providing you have the front of the car (or all of it is easier) about 18 inches or more off the ground.... Be careful tho, it's pretty heavy if the cars not on a lifter....

I'm gonna have to do it by eye, then drive it to the nearest knowledgeable place...

Good stuff, I need my rear doing too, new inner and out ball joints, plus taken the subframe off and re-conned it all, I hope there is someone round my way who knows his stuff....

No mate, it's basically the same process as doing the front....

you can follow the 2 pipes coming out of the bulkhead, under the battery(ish) if you can't find them....

I'm not sure about the gas issues, but suprisingly, it is pretty easy to access, the bleeder/filler thingies, are on the passenger side, inbetween the engine and inner wing, they look like tyre valves, may still have the plastic tyre valve caps on too, quite easy to find, for a change! :)

Is this recent thread any use matey? http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=154107

It did get me for a minute or 2 that, I didn't see the 'view picture' button either, haha.... Also, I couldn't resist......

I typed in B0llocks, apparently my testes where doing 81.2 mph the other day!.....

This will come in very handy for you matey.... http://www.300zx.co.uk/cgi-bin/manual.cgi

Anyone good on golfs? I'm in the middle of an engine transplant for a mate, it's a Y reg (Mk4) 1.4 16v, engine code - AXP. I can't find an AXP engine anywhere, just loads of AHW engines, and I have searched as to whether they are compatible, seems like they might be, but can't find a definitive answer. Does anyone know if they are? I don't want to be buying an ECU too, still have all sensors etc on the old engine tho... Cheers...

It's violent if you hit the rev limiter at high speed, but as for the speed limiter, I have no idea, never hit it, can't see it being violent tho, but I'm not sure how it works to be honest, i.e. how it limits the engine etc....

KPH* (I think, but you get the idea) :)

Technically, the limiter is still there, but raised due to the KPH/MPH conversion, what to, I'm not sure, perhaps jap =112 mph, whatever that is in MPH, (I think that's how it works), but if you have an aftermarket ECU, that will most likely raise it to an unreachable speed, so in essence, it is de-limited...

Inverter and car battery wont last five minutes mate, best off with either a really long extension, or a generator....

If you have the power/hold switch, it's a jap import, UKs didn't have them, unless the unlikely event that someone has put a jap centre console in a UK, but you can tell if the lghts come on the dash when you flick the switch, keep the switch in the middle position....

I think driving it would be more fun......? :tt2:

Have you checked the top hose on the radiator? The outlet on the rad is prone to becoming brittle and breaking...

Cannon Fodder!

well said mate, when I have kids, if they do something that rightly deserves it, they will get a crack, just like I used to, I used to shit my self coming home to my Dad after doing something wrong, and you can safely say I never did it again, and I have turned out perfectly good, well mannered, respectful, educated etc, if we don't dish out any punishment, they just turn out like cavemen....

sold! 350 quid....

on an NA :)