markzx

Lower Steering column UJ very comon and now nearly £150.

My Volvo C70 GT T5 Blows 350z's away.

Don't touch the ACT they are sh1te end of.

It's just a Fooking Renault anyway :slap::tongue::rofl::rofl:

This is more likely to have been caused by changing old oil to a new thinner Synthetic oil. What oil have you put in the car?

How long ago did you buy those. I was bidding on some just the same and one person was bidding against me. Did you have a max bid amount of £600. Because i was prepared to go to £600 but was told I'd need to bid £605 and pulled out. Was it you? Cobra Misano seats are £700 each for the fabric seats they are £ 900 cheapest place I found for leather

Is it one from Jed. Autherised XTD dealer? How much did you pay and did it come with the warrenty and the XTD and Nippon Racing stickers

I'm liking that alot. Make a better Chevy V8 conversion. Until then you could really turn up the wick on the NA and see just how much power the standard lump could punch before breaking up.

Yes the ones bought from XTD themselves in the states. I still have the garentee for the last one i bought and it says Nipon all over it + the Garentee states that all XTD clutch friction plates are made and manufactered some place in the US apart from clutches made for certain Japanese models. It states that the Nissan 300zx and the skyline and a couple of mitsubishi and toyota are all made by sister company Nipon racing in Japan. The backing/ thrust plates are remanufactures from OEM with stronger forks The problem with many bought od Ebay is that they are all out of date ex stock. A clutch only has a limited life span if it is not used as the compunds start to break down. I know that Exedy UK have issued a statement that the clutches being offered on Ebay are not covered by Exedy warrenty because they are all out of date. Speak to Vinz about it. He bought a Carbon Carbon alloy clutch like mine from a Ebay trader and it was crap. luckely my mate Dave at dp is the UK autherise retailer and got Steve at Exedy Europe to honour a warrenty on the clutch. which turned out to be eleven years old when a clutch has only got a 4 year shelf life. Like brake pads they are the same. Once fitted and cooked the compounds fuse together and will last for many years but they only have four years shelf life befire the compounds start to break down. After that no amount of cooking will make it work properly. Genuine XTD clutches are about £80 for the friction plate alone and complete with thrust plate and bearing they retail at about £170. Which is cheep. Also Z1's own clutches are XTD clutches so if they are confident to use them and put their name on them they feel they are good enough.

Happy birth day guys Have a good'n

XTD clutches for the Z32 are all made by Nippon Racing in Japan and are branded a XTD in the US as XTD are a well known and respected US aftermarket manufactorer of Clutches for other Yanky Trucks and muscle cars. They are good clutches if fitted properly. They are a very good clutch, but certain things should be done when fitting. 1, always change the rear crank seal when fitting any new clutch as the lighter different weight will magnify and mico ossilation and make a worn seal leak slightly. Hence contamination. If you are using a puck type clutch or a cinder type surface clutch they are much thinner and will need a longer slave arm to remove the slack. Hence often difficult to get a proper peddle. A new standard OEM thrust bearing will help instead of the performance bearing supplied, but an ajustable slave arm such as supplied by OS Giken, Nipon Racing and Exedy (because they know this) with the supplied bearing is best. If the slack isn't taken up the clutch will chatter when not engaged similar to a multi plate clutch. Difference is muti plates are ment to so that the plates have room to expand and the backing plate is still engaged to the pivot ball.Single lightweight puk plates are just moving back and forth on the main shaft (not Good) The pivot ball should be replace when uprating the clutch. I have learned from experience. The OEM pivot ball is too soft for the higher presures and starts to wear first. Then eventually the ball will snap and you will push the shaft of the slave right out and the fork drops into the bell housing. These clutches are design for street racing and ocational track. They are not the smothest in and around town, but will give great launch without burning out. That what they are designed for. If you want a silky smooth clutch that will hold the power and do trackdays then you need to spend at least £1200 and get a RPS Carbon Carbon or Exedy Carbon Carbon Alloy. Just like a computor you have to decide what programs you are really going to used and get the right hardware in the first place. I'll go for poorly fitted Dave and get her a new clutch with a new seal (only buttons you tight arse) new uprated pivot ball and a OS Giken ajustable slave arm (not expensive) and do it right.

There's always Phil you could try at Tel: 01942 891795/883348 (Ask for Phil) Blackmoor Service Station, 363-365 Manchester Road, Astley, Tyldesley, Greater Manchester. M29 7DX Here one he made earlier

Series 2 has better climate control, but Lee /importance recently sold a 97 silver SWB manual TT. So they are out there.

Get a 5.7 V8 Chevy and supercharger wapped into little red, which by then should be little pearl violet loads of bits to go on it. must get wings and door collected. Sell 2 more Zeds. Anyone want a silver 2+2 with HKS turbos and other guff. + a SWB NA chipped big injectors, Twin MAF, High flow stillen Headers, Decat full SS system, full Powertrix handling kit and coilovers. Very quick car. will have to go by end of summer.

The juddering on braking? Is it most noticable under gentle braking or heavy braking? If under gentle braking and less when heavy braking. Then look at you bushes first, especialy your 2 steering rack bushes which suffer if contaminated with slight powersteering fluid leaks or general oil contamination. If the judder is worse the harder you brake then your looking at warped discs. Usually due to pad and disc combinations. ie green and red stuff pads destroy standard discs. or cheep discs. Ferodo DS2500 are a top pad that give better braking and kinder to standard discs

Don't do it stu. It looks classy with the silver wheels and much more boy racer with the black wheels. Of couse this is MHO. Black chrome Centres with shiny rims is different but pure black looks like you have 4 spares on.

Best place in the NW to go is -: Tel: 01942 891795/883348 (Ask for Phil) Blackmoor Service Station, 363-365 Manchester Road, Astley, Tyldesley, Greater Manchester. M29 7DX

Have you got the so called uprated thrust bearing that the comes with the Nippon/XTD clutches? These tend to be thinner than the standard and as a result need a longer or ajustable shaft on the Slave to take up the slack. If your pivot ball is worn you can get the same problem. Most comon fault though would likely be a leaking rear cranck seal and contamination.

They are very good http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=bgOs-BXN7v4&feature=related http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=DE2e2Gf8NAk

It all depends on the cover you take as well. if I recall there is several different levels of service offered

Nick I'm sorry you had such a crap experience. I have to addmit to having crappy service whilst in France via the RAC's Agents myself. Took the 5 hours to come out to me. fortunately they took us to a BMW dealer 40 miles away who re programed the ECU and we could get on our way. Having had to call them in both Holland and Germany all I can say is they were brilliant. Quick and efficent.

Anyone thinking of doing a GB on these as I have 3 Zeds left and 2 need steering UJ's.

As Legtath says and also the wire is usually coated in a heat retardent white nylon braiding

Yes all the crush pannels from the supension towers forwards are readily available. Mike MJP on the traders section will sort you out no problem.

It all depends on the kind of driving you do and the kind of temps you put into you oil. If you use any increase in standard boost you will start breaking the oil down and shortening its life span. Also if your doing lots of short journeys where the engine temps don't get up to proper opperating temps then you'll get a bit more ware which clags the oil up and turns it black just as much as cooking it. I always change mine every 4K. My blue Zed did 122,000 miles on original turbos with a chip and 1 bar of boost before I had any problems. The Car was previously owned by a friend of a friend who did the same. He bought the car of the guy who had it new. I bought it with 32,000 miles on the clock and by the time it had 34,000 on the clocks it was chipped boosted and induction.