SY__GT

Tap in and out at the same point. Remove bit from ABS unit to that T piece. Plumb the line from ABS unit to Hydro IN. Then plumb Hydro OUT to the T piece. When ABS is functioning it just works through the hydro as usual. When you pull the hydro it acts directly to the rear wheels.

I had hydro and ABS on my 325 drift car no probs. If you have a single brake line that goes to the rear wheel then T's off to both rears, then simply plumb the handbrake into the IN bit on the stock T piece. Like Jaffa says above ABS has nothing to do with the braking when you're not pressing the brake pedal! Also I will be doing this job on my SWB at some point plan on doing the same as I did on my beemer. You can see on the diagram Steams provided that there is a single line that supplys both rear wheels via a T piece.

^lol!^

Have a look on the Vin plate, it details the paint code of the car. Mine is a 92 import and is AG2 Aztec Red...couldn't find a match in the local Hal frauds.

It should be alright if that was the problem, give it a spray whilst someone else turns it left to right to get all the bits of the joint done. Oil or grease might be a more long term solution than WD but I'm sure someone with a bit more nouse will answer shortly

Anyone able to answer this? JeffTT or MJP know?

Mines a 92 TT manual in Aztec red

As above but I find that it isn't too aggresive for daily driving, not fun in a traffic jam but certainly managable when you're used to it. Engagement is great, very easy to light up the rear wheels when pulling away, can be jerky at times if you don't give it enough revs etc. I like mine.....came free with the car from Japan! lol only found it when I removed my old engine was like a christmas present lol

I'm running a twin plate HKS

PCV relocation to prevent huge plumes of smoke on right handers! easy enough to do: http://www.twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.aspx?forum=technical&msg_id=1019112

Strange thread, went from props to selling wheels to props again? I have a carbon one for my car and it is very light, most of the weight is in the joints at either end. Unfortunately I fitted it at the same time I did an engine swap so can't comment on it's individual contribution. Should make a big difference though as it is so much lighter than standard.

Anyone know the best place to purchase genuine nismo gear? I'd quite like a strengthened clutch pivot ball from a known source and also an uprated g'box mount. Anyone purchased these from a UK supplier?

Oh I see, I have a FMIC. Too much else to do at the mo though!

What's the advantage of a balance pipe in this location. I've seen them a couple of times on high power VG's, Is the plenum balance bar not sufficient at high boost? Anyone know?

Just bare in mind when drilling any holes for mounting it that the fuel tank is under there somewhere!!

Mines on the rear shelf behind the seats along with the fire extinguisher. It's the big 3.5 litre one too and I have a cage, all fits fine. Length of the hose isn't an issue as the accusump pushes 3.5 litres whether its from the accusump itself or from the accusump and hose doesn't really matter just longer hose means you'll have to put more oil in when you fill up.

If it's been sat could be a small leak from somewhere that has pooled in the 2 weeks it's been sat and will just burn off fine. Lacquer burning off your new fan and smoke being pushed to back area of engine bay due to same fan? Reckon best thing to do is have a good look round area with engine off, if nothing looks to obviously be causing it. grab a litlle hand held extinguisher and run the engine watching carefully until it dissappears or gets worse!

Ong Back and Warrior king Most old Jackie Chan films too (apart from ones he didn't help produce!)

Reason I'm upgrading is that I did a track day the standard brakes faded away in under 5 laps. Think mainly due to the low quality brake fluid. they were alright in terms of performance just not for as long as I needed them to be!

Think Ksport and D2's are nigh on identical, I have the 330mm 8 pot Ksports. Unfortunately not fitted yet so can't help you : (

Leaky injector?

That was more a tip for terry I guess with his 'helicopter' noise! lol

First thing to do would be to change the diff oil in my opinion....might find it's got hardly any in it!

After market rear diff? Might be the backlash between the crown and pinion gear has not been set correctly?

Good stuff, just be careful when bunging it here there and everywhere, there's sometimes reasons why engineers didn't put it there in the first place. water drain routes in doors, ecu's that need a bit of space for heat dissapation, HVAC stale air venting paths etc. Amazing the difference a bit of rag a fluff can make though!!