SY__GT

Yeah I don't use gloves either. Recently done my engine out and in again...again!lol and the drivers side of my engine is ridiculous! It's got a turbo, then a sandwich plate with 1/2inch oil hoses for my oil cooler, the stock oil pressure sender as I relocated it to the oil tree after fitting my braided lines, a 10mm oil hose coming from the stock oil cooler position up to a sensor block for my gauge senders, an accusump line into a T piece, a one way valve for the oil cooler line and the steering rack and column, the power steering pump and the alternator!!! Passenger side has just the turbo and LOADS of space 'cos there's no aircon! GRRR Wish the oil tree was on the passenger side of the engine!

More room in an S14 bay!

Is there a Carputer specific forum on the net that might be able to answer your question better/faster?

ooo, also have you got any lock mods? SWB is pretty snappy and Z standard lock is sooo poo I'd recommend at least some lock spacers (my current setup), offset rack spacers are better (Cowpattmatt is running these on his Z in the BDC at the mo (although can damage rack end seals). Front subframe mods to move the whole rack forward and hub mods would be best (I'll get round to this eventually!)

Like it. Reckon your hydro is too far away tho and you'll just end up bending it 'cos of the angle. It's always easier pulling it towards your body rather than inline with the cars x axis. Mine goes in a similiar place but on drivers side of the tunnel. It's not as big as yours ;P and sits nicely between gearstick and steering wheel for easy 'panic wanding'! lol

I think it's cool, the owner obviously doesn't take it seriously, like that tiny GTR rep someone else posted up. Think they're a good laugh.....only in Japan mind.

Hmmm! First thing to check is the gearbox and diff oil levels....and if the fluids are ok or black! lol change them anyway. Diff noise would go up with speed and wouldn't matter what gear you are in. Gearbox noise should change when you change gears. S

Thanks for that, strange how the diagram appears to be the older Z31 engine but with two turbos, anyways it would appear that contrary to what we all thought the oil pump feeds the outer little holes in the filter then the central big hole goes straight to the main oil gallery.....I'll be doing some testing once my engine is back in to double check this though! Thanks AndyP

I know that's what I have summised from looking at the oil tree. I have a block with the oil tree removed but still can't 100% confirm which way it goes. I need to be sure else I will potentially have a one way valve in my system the wrong way round! lol. Jimmer should be able to answer this hopefully having done a lot of engine builds.

Does anybody happen to know which way through the oil filter the flow direction is? does it go from inside (through the big central hole) to outside(out through the little holes round the edge) or outside to inside?! if you know what I mean! lol I've got an incling but want to be 100% sure without the need for a practical and messy 'pipe removal test' lol Reason incase you're wondering is I'm fitting a sandwich plate for bigger 1/2" oil cooler lines and also plumbing my accusump and one way valve in to prevent it pressurising the oil cooler and keep all that lovely back up oil going straight to the block.

Anyone know the below?

Yeah scaffold tube would be good, I happen to have a nice chunky proper jack handle that does a good job....wouldn't use one of those little 'fisher price my first jack' type handle lolz. Got good smooth results on both my bimmer and the Z doing this.

Re: front, the tension rods need adjusting to bring the wheel back a bit (you'll be reducing the castor) Re:Rear, more stretch on the tyre and a flare should see you good, you can do the flare with a jack handle and a mate to drive it forward and back, and by the looks of your paint you won't need to bother heating it up to prevent cracking you could just sand it back and rattle over the top!

Best of luck buddy. I hate motorsport deadlines! Always super busy the few days before....never the week or month before lol

? Am I missing something. I didn't remove the water pipes when I changed my cam covers, they're no where near them?....aha! just figured out you're talking about the cambelt covers on the front...ok lol yeah have to remove the water pipes like vodkashots says!

Jonce your sig is Mahoosive! looks like your posting a full on picture everytime you post! lol P.S. Nice car!

Which pipe is it we're talking about here? neither thread sheds much light.

Awesome bit of info on this in the FAQ section!: http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?117186-idle-control-valve-tech

Yeah could be water. Remove the sparks and fuel pump relay and turn it over see if it turns into a water fountain feature! The last thing you'd want is to damage the internals through hydraulic lock by running it if it only needs 1 or both headgaskets doing.

I did my twin plate by doing the nuts on the clutch until the friction plates just caught enough to be a bit stif but move, roughly lined them up by eye, then wiggled my gearbox on to line it all up, carefully removed the gearbox again then tightened up all the nuts on the clutch......this was off the car ofcourse!

Anyone know? I want to buy from here: http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/cable/thinwall.php as they have all the oem colours available but not sure where to start with ensuring I get the right size!? Looking at my standard wiring is no help as I can't get a strand number match or measure to 0.1 of a mm. Anyone know the ampage rating of the injector wires? S

Yeah is a good idea to unplug the battery when working on any part of the loom, especially the injectors as they are constant 12V+ anyways, anyone know the wire gages for the injectors??

You guys know what size of wire the OEM wires are? think the live feed is a thicker gage?

Is there any way of recovering my old rides specification list? Took me ages to compile and haven't got it saved any where else! It's useful for insurance and I forget all the stuff on my car sometimes!

DW bushes should come out easy. Push the metal inner out first then the two halves should come out easy. Nissan OEM balljoints were a different matter. I took the hubs off to do it and used a press...easiest way (not shortest though!)