Noz

I run all my cars on Tesco Momentum99. The reason being is that an associate of mine showed me evidence that Momentum99 now has higher knock resistant properties than the latest incarnation of Shell VPower Nitro. He was a staunch supporter of Shell VPower prior to this. If I have to, I use VPower. That's more valuable than my opinion, that's actual fact :)

Ah. The old "aggressive timing" adage. There is no such thing. There is MBT timing, which produces the maximum torque available for a particular engine, setup, fuel etc. There is too much timing, which will cause detonation in a knock-limited turbocharged application, or a loss of torque on a naturally-aspirated engine. Then there is too little timing, which to an extent can be considered "safe" and to an extreme can melt valves. I cannot comment on your own ECU, as I haven't seen the actual map contained within it with my own eyes, and I'm not one to make assumptions. But I can tell you that I am looking at a genuine Blitz Access map on my laptop as I write this. Fuelling and timing maps are based on a 41P13 JDM Auto TT map. The fuelling map has 236 of 256 points exactly the same. The timing map is more advanced in points where a typical full throttle run would access. The timing map is suitable for race fuel only. It runs similar to an NA timing map. For use in a TT on available UK fuel, it is completely unsuitable. P.S. NA Zeds knock like mad on regular UK unleaded fuel. The pistons don't melt because there's no forced induction, but it'll knock out a set of bearings eventually :)

Hi. When was this? I have been very busy with various things, but if you can't get the car down to me, then there isn't a lot I can do! Your car has major issues according to that dyno plot! If a chip has been set for high octane fuel, it's not going to "run lean" on a lower octane fuel. Injector duration has nothing to do with timing advance. There isn't one aftermarket chip from the land of the rising sun that will ever be suitable for a UK car. I can't believe there are people still asking if a MINE's ECU is going to be ok. They weren't 15 years ago, they aren't today. Unless you're running race fuel, natch. Indeed, only the other day I sent off a generic chip for a TT to the Netherlands. One that I created on my dyno for open-loop fuelling, God-awful BP98 fuel, FMIC, and typical intake/exhaust upgrades. I don't sell other people's chips. I also don't slate other people's chips. I don't need to. But if I ever do feel the need to, I can analyse them all with lots of pretty pictures and numbers (i.e. factual information) until the cows come home :laugh:

It's incredibly simple. Overdrive off (3rd gear 1.000:1 ratio), find the point where the torque converter no longer slips (RPMs increase with speed) and it is also past the kickdown point, then floor it to the redline. The specific starting RPM will depend on the car spec / load / transmission condition etc. You lose a bit of info in the lower RPM range compared to a manual, but it's no major issue. An auto I have at the dyno currently with an uprated torque converter and higher stall speed is good to go from 3k onwards. Real pain to get moving though!

No difference whatsoever as far as the hardware is concerned.

Redrilled crap. Stay away from TLF injectors, a simple Google search will reveal all :)

The main thing to realise about the standard pump is that they are 25 years old and now prone to failure. As per every other Nissan of similar vintage, it should be renewed when carrying out any other upgrades.

Hahaha. Bring it over to the dyno and I'm sure we can get it running as it should be :)

Follow the instructions in the manual or online as a basic guide. Keep vac lines as short as possible, and equal lengths to each actuator from a t-piece you will likely need to buy. Use proper silicon blanks or small lengths of hose with bolts :cowboy: The OEM Z32 ECU maps (all territories) have an inherent fault where the built-in fuel cut is programmed so high as to never actually be reached on stock turbos/injectors/fuel pressure. This means you can, and will, damage your engine if you run too much boost (don't rely on the knock sensor).

Only seen this once before, and it was the result of a bent CAS shaft. It made the CAS bracket and nearside cambelt cover undulate. No running issues though, sounds as if you could have a few problems that require diagnosing & fixing.

MBCs "crack" open at a specified pressure, they don't "bleed" air in order to increase boost pressure by diverting pressure away from the actuator diaphragms. They are basically a mechanical solenoid. With correctly specified springs, they work exactly the same as an EBC by not allowing the actuators to see any air until the set pressure is attained. They are, of course, lacking any sort of PID feedback :D

MBC on Jaffa's car. 1.4 bar and 692whp. MBC on my car. 1.7 bar and 570bhp (fly). Fitted MBCs to 3 Zeds in the last 5 days for mapping on the dyno. BOVs are suitable for many turbocharged cars, ones with short intakes and MAFs (my own modified Impreza for example, running a GFB RFL), any with speed-density engine management. The one car they should never be fitted to is a Z32 with standard intake pipework length/configuration and stock MAF in the stock position. Blow-through MAF means run whatever pressure relief valve(s) you wish upstream :)

I've worked with most EBCs, and the new GReddy Profec is one that stands out as being the best, and by "best" I mean the most accurate to dial in. It is also the best looking, but that is purely subjective. The Profec B Spec 2 is easy to use and very accurate, as is the e-01 but with a more involved GUI and E-Manage compatibility. All three GReddy models work very well and will give you quick spool and hit a specified boost target consistently when set up correctly. Apexi AVC-R has grown on me a lot in the 8 years since first dialling one in on an S13. They work very well and have more options than the GReddy models, including boost by gear when wired fully into the loom. They are also more expensive than the Profec & Profec B Spec 2. Blitz DSBC is a solid performer, as is the SBC-iD with its separate controller/display. Turbosmart e-boost, I am partial to as I used one on my S13 drag car for a couple of years. Not worked with one since then, so pretty rare. The most convoluted one to use was an early HKS EVC model. The most annoying by far was a Gizzmo model where you have to press two buttons at once to change a setting. A part of me died that day. Mapped a Zed with an MS-IBC fitted the other day, and it was better, but still limited (no vac readout, flakey peak boost readout). The most unreliable I've found to be is the HDi range.

No reason to stick with your current decat pipes if you place 550bhp as the number 1 priority though. I would be looking at a pair of GT2860R (non-GTX). Around 550bhp at 1.3-1.4 bar, with no one particular component under too much strain. A larger turbine housing at that power level is always preferable, which stipulates a 5-bolt configuration. No two ways about it, unfortunately. I've not yet come across a hybrid based on the stock housings that will hit an easy 550+, other than the GT525s which punch well above their weight. The hybrids I've worked with closely would do around 500bhp, but with better spool than stock.

Mark & I spoke about organising various things last year but time was the main factor. He's quite heavily involved with the STOC club, so he could be the man for the job. There is quite a nice setup in Nottingham for a fairly centrally-located Z32 HQ of sorts. Zed Centre, Automodz, CJ and myself all within spitting distance of one another :laugh:

Great stuff :D

Hello & welcome :)

Ran one on mine for a year, along with HKS 10W45 oil (made by Idemitsu). There's nothing wrong with them whatsoever.

I'm quite a fan of the 6 MPS, how's it been treating you?

Molegrips, blowtorch and gravity :shifty:

Is it incredibly laggy? When does it make positive boost?

You get 12psi with the vac line to the actuators disconnected? Are the actuator arms even connected? :wack:

:blink:

Typically, yes. However, some ECUs behave slightly differently to others. It is sometimes possible to switch from knock maps to normal maps on a car with a faulty knock sensor by simply switching the flag on/off in the software. Other times, the ignition does indeed need to be cycled. Additionally, many will always run off the knock maps, unless the bypass is carried out. Depending on the map, there may well be identical knock maps at any rate, or the boost solenoids may not even be present. Many variables. It could be all manner of issues, it needs to be monitored properly whilst hot/cold to determine exactly how much power is being lost and why.

WTF, I've only just seen this. Only chatted with him the Friday before he passed. Wondered why I hadn't heard from him the last couple of weeks. He did my sills for free, top bloke. Condolences to those he's left behind. RIP Ross.